026 pro-cylinder kit

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doc874

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Well i did it, i purchased a 026 pro cylinde kit off scare-bay for my saw, i have a regular stihl 026, i asked the seller if it would be ok to upgrade the saw to a pro kit but i never got the answer. What i want to know is if its ok to do this as i have little knowledge of the stihl saws. Thanks.

Joe
 
I am not a stihl man, but as far as I know, the 026/260 and 026/260 pro are identical saws, the only difference being a decompression valve. Since that is the case, you could just drill and tap the boss on your old (stock) cylinder and put the decompression valve in. Hopefully you end up with some decent parts - the fact that the seller didn't respond isn't good, IMO. Hope you didn't pay much for it, just incase it is a bust! I can't believe a 50cc saw is too difficult to pull over.
 
026 cylinder

Thanks for the reply. I actually bought the cylinder which has the threaded hole for the decomp valve, and a piston kit comes with it, i paid abit over 110 usd for the parts but not being to familiar with the stihl saws i don't know if this is more cc's than the stock setup or whether its done for merely ease of pull etc..., there are some people here who would know and at a earlier forum posting a guy did recomend putting a pro setup on the saw versus a stock setup. Hopefully someone will have the answer as to is this a better way to go or basiclly the same torque/cc etc... Thanks.

Doc
 
I am pretty sure it is the same power, torque, cc, just a decompression valve is installed for easier pulling. Were the parts brand new Stihl, or new aftermarket, or used?
 
doc874 said:
Thanks for the reply. I actually bought the cylinder which has the threaded hole for the decomp valve, and a piston kit comes with it, i paid abit over 110 usd for the parts but not being to familiar with the stihl saws i don't know if this is more cc's than the stock setup or whether its done for merely ease of pull etc..., there are some people here who would know and at a earlier forum posting a guy did recomend putting a pro setup on the saw versus a stock setup. Hopefully someone will have the answer as to is this a better way to go or basiclly the same torque/cc etc... Thanks.

Doc
what happened with your original piston/cylinder?
 
Hi. Piston scored badly piston rings are stuck into grove on the piston. The cylinder was scored also but only on the exhaust side, i did do some light grinding with my dremel and sandpaper to where its ok, but, thought i'd be better of buying a new setup. Four paws the parts are genuine stihl not after market like Tecomec etc...

Doc
 
doc874 said:
Hi. Piston scored badly piston rings are stuck into grove on the piston. The cylinder was scored also but only on the exhaust side, i did do some light grinding with my dremel and sandpaper to where its ok, but, thought i'd be better of buying a new setup.

Doc
something caused your piston/ cylinder to score, air leak or if a high speed fixed jet on carb that may be a problem. could be other issues but you'l need to track it down.
 
I agree i will be checking for these things but first i will need a top-end as the old one is non usable, i know the air leak is abit more problematic to check for because you have to block the exhaust etc..., i suspect the only area to air leak would be around the crank seals and it may be more economical and easy to just replace them but thanks for the advice any i get will certainly be helpful.

Doc
 
Four Paws said:
I am not a stihl man, but as far as I know, the 026/260 and 026/260 pro are identical saws, the only difference being a decompression valve. Since that is the case, you could just drill and tap the boss on your old (stock) cylinder and put the decompression valve in. Hopefully you end up with some decent parts - the fact that the seller didn't respond isn't good, IMO. Hope you didn't pay much for it, just incase it is a bust! I can't believe a 50cc saw is too difficult to pull over.

I think you mean mill and machine the boss in the cylinder
Scott
 
cuttinscott said:


I think you mean mill and machine the boss in the cylinder
Scott

No, I meant drill and tap. I guess you would have to mill the boss in the casting flat, but you would still have to drill and tap it so you can thread the decompression valve in. Either way, if you can't pull a 50cc saw over without a decompression valve, then you probably aren't strong enough to use it!

Doc874, the 026/260 pro models also have an adjustable oiler.
 
026

Four paws, is that the screw in between the bar cover nuts/studs for adjusting the oiler flow?? Thanks.

Doc
 
Nope, that is for adjusting your chain tension. Oiler adjustment would be on the bottom of the saw, on the bar side. There will be a small hole with a flat-head screw in there...turn that to adjust your oil flow. Like I said, I think only 'pro' models have that, and the plain old 026/260 don't.
 
If there is a hole on the bottom of the saw, and a cast-in mark to indicate adjustable oil flow, you can upgrade you oil pump and clutch drum to the "PRO" model. Generally though, it isn't worth the expense/trouble unless you have a bunch of old parts lying around, or a $100 bill you have nothing better to use it on!

If you add a decomp valve, you need to change the top shroud.
 
026

yes i know about the schroud but haven't located one yet. I will post an add on the trader forum. Thanks.

Doc
 
There is also a little rubber grommet that goes around he decomp valve - stop saw dust getting in and possibly burning..
 
026

lakeside, do you mean that the rubber attached to the schroud? If so when i find a cover i hope one comes with it or i can make one, i may have to modify the schroud i currently have to accomodate the decomp.

Doc
 
Nope - the rubber fits around the decomp and presses into the cylinder.

You might not like just drilling a hole in the top shroud - way to easy to hit the decomp with your glove... The correct shroud has a guard to stop that. If you don't care about appearances, you could probably glue something onto the shroud to accomplish the same thing.
 
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