026

[Greener]

Most of you veteran tree workers will probably tell this is a matter of preference but I need to get some feedback anyway.

What do you guys use for chunking down trunks (talking softwood, conifers mainly) that require a 20" bar? I have been using an 026 but it seems slow. Have used a 36 in the past but is it too much weight to manage for extended periods? Thanks.

 

[troythetreeman]

i have a husqvarna 350 thats awesome, when i replace it itll be a 346xp, ripping little saws
i think the homeowner "equvilant" is now the 450, 50cc saw
anything smaller then the stihl 460mag i prefer husky
some people like to talk trash about the homeowner huskys as orange poulons
this isnt true
electrolux is the parent company, they own poulon, jonsered and husqvarna, they are all very much their own saws

 

[Greener]

i have a husqvarna 350 thats awesome, when i replace it itll be a 346xp, ripping little saws
i think the homeowner "equvilant" is now the 450, 50cc saw
anything smaller then the stihl 460mag i prefer husky
some people like to talk trash about the homeowner huskys as orange poulons
this isnt true
electrolux is the parent company, they own poulon, jonsered and husqvarna, they are all very much their own saws

thanks Troythetreeman. I only owned one Husky, and it was a homeowner, 435. It never started in the tree, but always on the ground. In contrast, my brother has owned a husky Rancher for about 20 years and it still runs perfectly. What kind of bar can the 350 and 346 pull and what kind of prices am looking at?

 

[troythetreeman]

i run an 18" it would probably pull a 20, but im sure it would loose some
it really only starts hard the first start of the day, 5-7 pulls
huskys do start different from stihls, i see a lot of stihl guys struggle with a husky
in the tree, pull the choke out, push it back in (to lock the throttle 1/4) hit the decompression valve, set the chain break and its starts every time with a 10" pull
the xps are higher priced, 500$ or so
11lbs dry weight on the power head tho and my 350 pulls a pretty aggressive chain through anything the bar gets through like a hot knife through butter
it does work a little in wood thicker then my bar
they dont make the 350 anymore, like i say, i think it basically called the 450 now, but the 450 is a tad heavier then a 346xp and you cant adjust the oiler

 

[serial feller]

Greener, you didn't mention how often you will be cutting. Troy already hit on pricing a little and if you are not doing a lot of cutting on a regular basis I would think that should be a factor. Generally speaking though the higher the HP of the saw, the less chain speed you will lose while in the cut. With a few exceptions higher HP usually means a larger heavier saw. Pro grade saws will be more expensive than a homeowner saw, but if you are doing a lot of cutting and intend to so so for many years then a pro saw is a good investment.

It's hard to pick one saw for 20" and say " that's the one". Find the right combination and weight and power and price ( they are generally synonymous ) for your situation. Also factor dealer support into your decision. If you can't easily get parts and service, look for something different. I am also big on buying from someone I trust. I skip my local dealer and drive 30 miles because I like the guy behind the counter.

 

[squad143]

Most of you veteran tree workers will probably tell this is a matter of preference but I need to get some feedback anyway.

What do you guys use for chunking down trunks (talking softwood, conifers mainly) that require a 20" bar? I have been using an 026 but it seems slow. Have used a 36 in the past but is it too much weight to manage for extended periods? Thanks.

I own quite a few Stihl saws. I try to use my 200 (16" bar) for as long as possible (mostly due to my age - joint problems an all).

I run 20" bars (3/8 chain) on mostly all my saws, except my 046 which sees a 24" bar. (The 088 gets a 36 - 42" 404 chain, depending on how big the wood is).

The next logical step from the 200 is the 026 (260 or 261), but if you are finding them slow, you are either going to have to live with it (assuming your chain is sharp) or step up to a 300 series saw (361/362).

One thing is that you may want to have your 026 checked by a reputable dealer (to ensure it is running properly). That, and make are you're running a sharp chain.

The only other suggestion I can make ( if you don't want to run a bigger saw) is to have your 026 modified. Do a search on this forum. There is a lot of info on modding saws in the chainsaw section.

 

[Greener]

I own quite a few Stihl saws. I try to use my 200 (16" bar) for as long as possible (mostly due to my age - joint problems an all).

I run 20" bars (3/8 chain) on mostly all my saws, except my 046 which sees a 24" bar. (The 088 gets a 36 - 42" 404 chain, depending on how big the wood is).

The next logical step from the 200 is the 026 (260 or 261), but if you are finding them slow, you are either going to have to live with it (assuming your chain is sharp) or step up to a 300 series saw (361/362).

One thing is that you may want to have your 026 checked by a reputable dealer (to ensure it is running properly). That, and make are you're running a sharp chain.

The only other suggestion I can make ( if you don't want to run a bigger saw) is to have your 026 modified. Do a search on this forum. There is a lot of info on modding saws in the chainsaw section.

Squad143. This post is awesome help. It makes me realize what I probably already know. I was running the 026 (pro saw) with the 20" and did not like the drag. Went to an 18 and it meets my minimum standards. Can't go back to the 20 now. Will be investing in an old 036 pro. I think I would just rather have the weight than sit up there all day waiting for the smaller saw to push through. Thanks for the wisdom.
Colby

 

[Greener]

Greener, you didn't mention how often you will be cutting. Troy already hit on pricing a little and if you are not doing a lot of cutting on a regular basis I would think that should be a factor. Generally speaking though the higher the HP of the saw, the less chain speed you will lose while in the cut. With a few exceptions higher HP usually means a larger heavier saw. Pro grade saws will be more expensive than a homeowner saw, but if you are doing a lot of cutting and intend to so so for many years then a pro saw is a good investment.

It's hard to pick one saw for 20" and say " that's the one". Find the right combination and weight and power and price ( they are generally synonymous ) for your situation. Also factor dealer support into your decision. If you can't easily get parts and service, look for something different. I am also big on buying from someone I trust. I skip my local dealer and drive 30 miles because I like the guy behind the counter.

Good point. In the busy season, I usually get out there for 1-2 jobs per week (I'm part time), but I plan to do tree work for many years to come. I used to own a 036 gave it up for the 026. Now I know what to do. Thanks "serial feller" (nice name, and may the law not catch you!)

 

[Greener]

Update here. I did run the 20" bar on the 026 on two firs this week. I put on a new chisel skip tooth chain and it pulled it great. Better than I remembered. Given, it was soft wood and not big dbh about 20-25". Thanks again for all the comments here. They were helpful. Looks like the 026 will keep it's job after all.

 

[rb142]

The MS261 would be a big improvement over the 026 with a 20" bar. It's closer to the performance of a stock 361, but in the package of a 50cc saw. The other obvious choice would be the Husky 346xp. If those won't get it done, you just need a bigger saw.