028 AV Chain Brake...

[DelanoJoe]

How difficult is it to repair or tighten the brake? Currently when the saw at idle, the chain continues to move and the brake barely can stop it. I don't like the idea of the chain moving as I'm using it and moving around - I'm afraid someone will get to close and bump it. It looks like an adjustment, but I'm not sure. Here are my questions:

1. I just got the saw and I'm getting owners and parts manuals, but don't have them yet - is this something I can do or should I take it into a dealer?

2. If it is easily done, are there any instructions out there for this?

Thanks,

 

[Lawn Masters]

the chainbrake isnt supposed to keep the chain from moving while the saw is at idle, that is an adjustment that needs to be done on the carb.

I wont advise you on the carb since I'll probably screw up somehow.

 

[DelanoJoe]

It is my first saw and I guess I was making an assumption - chain brake must be a safety feature when running then? I'm waiting on my manuals to show up since I got this at a pawn shop and had it tuned up and chain sharpened. By looking at most of the posts here, I've got a lonnnnnnggggg way to go. I never knew there was so much to a chainsaw, but it's amazing after reading some of the posts on everything from chains to muffler mods.

I'm not sure I'd attempt at a carb adjustment after reading what a lean carb will do. Thanks for the feedback...

 

[Lawn Masters]

not a problem, you are wise not to try something you have no idea how to do. it may cost more, but you know it should work when you're done. btw, this being your first saw, if you havent already, go get yourself some chainsaw chaps, a helmet with the face shield and earmuffs on it, and make sure you know the safe operation of a saw. this is just to be a safe operator with your machine, believe me, this saw, like any other, will cut you easily if you're not careful.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

- chain brake must be a safety feature when running then?

Yes it is. It's designed to stop the chain in the even of kickback. But it's also meant to be used anytime the saw is not under throttle, as in start up and when you're moving with the saw running.

You mentioned that the chainbrake will barely stop the chain from moving when it's idling. Dumb question, and not at all to insult you, ( :angel: ) but is the chainbrake on? Do you know how to activate it? (You push the handguard forward until it clicks.) The chainbrake should stop the chain under throttle, and especially at idle. So while it's true that your chain shouldn't turn at idle, and that it's a carb issue, in that you'll need to adjust it, or have it adjusted, the chainbrake should stop the chain. If the brake is in fact on, and it's not stopping the chain, even at idle then you've got a chainbrake issue as well. It could need replaced, cleaned, at least looked at.

When you get yoru owner's manual, there's a section in there on the chainbrake. It says it should be changed at least yearly I think.

Jeff

 

[Billy_Bob]

My MS 460 manual says how to test the chain brake, when to use it, and how to adjust the idle (chain should not move). Following are on-line manuals. Might want to read the MS 460 instructions (or others) on this (until you get your manual).

Manuals on-line...
http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl_ownersmanuals/ownersmanuals_listing.html

 

[DelanoJoe]

Barely is stretching it - I have pushed the chainbrake handle down but it doesn't click (is it supposed to?) - it doesn't have a hold mechanism or it isn't working. The chain moves regardless and that didn't seem right to me. I think I'll take it back in and have the carb looked at and the brake. I'm very green and don't want to do something stupid, so it's been great to get onto this site.

Good comments on gear to wear also - I'll check into that. Again, thanks for all the feedback guys...

 

[GASoline71]

I have an 028WB and when the chain brake is activated (pushed forward) it makes a very loud noticeable "CLICK". Actually all Stihl chain brakes sound that way. If there is no loud click when you push it forward, or no resistance when you pull it back, there is definately something wrong with your brake. As far as the chain turning at idle, I'll side with everyone else and tell you it is a carb adjustment issue. The idle speed is set too high. But, like you have stated, if you are unsure of how to do this yourself, take it to someone who knows how. Good luck.

Gary

 

[Billy_Bob]

Good idea to get the chain brake and idle fixed.

I have the habit of setting the chain brake when I'm walking around with my saw, and just today, I was walking from one cut to another and my shoe caught on a small twig or something. Well I almost tripped.

Anyway it would not have been pretty if I tripped and fell onto a moving chain!

So I guess it is a good idea to not have the chain moving at idle speed, to have a working chain brake, and to set the brake when walking from one cut to another (especially if you have big feet like I do [13] and they tend to catch on things easily).

 

[Diesel JD]

You know that's an excellent habit to get into. The one time my grandfatehr cut himself with his Mac 120 top handle he was on teh ground...cutting and stepped on a limb, made a nice scar. I always cut mine off or use teh brake if I walk very far. Chain brake should make an audible click when activated, it shouldn't take much to activate it from your hand or a serious kickback. If you know 2-cycle and adjusting carbs go for it...the chain should not move at idle properly tensioned, yet it should idle smoothly. If you don't know 2 cycle carbs you'll train wreck it liek I do and have bigger problems. Might be worth teh few bucks at the Stihl dealer...
J.D.

 

[begleytree]

The earlier 028s didn't have chainbrakes. Not insulting you, but are you sure your saw is equipped with one in the first place?
I agree the carb needs tweaked. If its starting and running good, I'd leave the L & H alone. Problem would be in one of a few things, either your LA (idle) is in too far (the bottom screw, turn to the left) or your switch may have a prob, keeping you on fast idle, or a filter problem with the choke (located inside the filter itself) or an air leak.
Might be best just to run it down to your local stihl deal for a quick look-see, if ones close.
-Ralph

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

Anothe question, and not to insult, but if it is equipped with a brake, are you pushing it forward hard enough? A fellow on here a while back thought his brake was broken, but in reality he just wasn't pushing it forward with enough force to activate it.

Jeff

 

[DelanoJoe]

It does have a chainbrake and you guys were right again - I checked it this weekend and I wasn't pushing hard enough (never using it before I didn't realize how hard you had to push). I'm going to take it in and get the carb looked at, but a friend came over yesterday and we took down 45 trees out of my back yard. The saw ran great and didn't have a problem - I made sure to always set the brake.

One question - if it does have a chainbrake, would this make it a newer 028? I have no idea how old it is, but am curious...

Thanks again for all your help...

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

There are several varieties of 028 out there. You can go onto Stihl's website, email them the S/N and if it was registered when bought, they're supposed to be able to tell you how old it is.

Jeff