028 Master Control

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DanAyo

ArboristSite Member
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Location
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How is the fast idle In the run position sped up? The saw won’t start cold unless My foot is placed in the handle and the toe of my boot is lifted upwards in order to speed the throttle. I think I read somewhere that the throttle rod (wire) needs to be bent.
Thanks in Advance,
Danny
 
So, the control has four positions. Choke/fast/run/off.

I would suggest, get the saw running anyway you can...run it to warm it up a bit. Turn the saw off, move lever to the fast position, and start the saw. Is it running faster than the normal idle speed?
 
I don’t know if anyone else has had this problem but mine wouldn’t open half throttle because the plastic shaft was bent and the cam wasn’t working correctly.
I am not sure I know what you mean by "wouldn't open half throttle."

But, the control rod, and the bosses holding either end of the rod, do wear out over time. Creating either choke or fast-idle issues.

Roy
 
I am not sure I know what you mean by "wouldn't open half throttle."

But, the control rod, and the bosses holding either end of the rod, do wear out over time. Creating either choke or fast-idle issues.

Roy
I might be wrong but I thought when you put the choke on the linkage rod presses against the throttle trigger opening the throttle butterfly slightly
 
We are probably just using different terms.

The choke setting gets you both choke and high idle. When you move the control to high...you keep the high idle and turn the choke function off.

I'm pretty sure about this...but, you know, I could be wrong.

Roy
 
We are probably just using different terms.

The choke setting gets you both choke and high idle. When you move the control to high...you keep the high idle and turn the choke function off.

I'm pretty sure about this...but, you know, I could be wrong.

Roy
No your right.
 
We are probably just using different terms.

The choke setting gets you both choke and high idle. When you move the control to high...you keep the high idle and turn the choke function off.

I'm pretty sure about this...but, you know, I could be wrong.

Roy
You are right. I have worked on a few of these saws that had a defective control lever cam. The indent for fast idle was either missing or worn off and I just had to file a grove where it should have been to restore the fast idle function. Setting fast idle with no choke is one of the most misunderstood function with modern saws. Gone are the good old saws that had a throttle-up button on the rear handle, everyone understood them, so of course they had to go to make things "simpler".
 
You are right. I have worked on a few of these saws that had a defective control lever cam. The indent for fast idle was either missing or worn off and I just had to file a grove where it should have been to restore the fast idle function. Setting fast idle with no choke is one of the most misunderstood function with modern saws. Gone are the good old saws that had a throttle-up button on the rear handle, everyone understood them, so of course they had to go to make things "simpler".
New and improved...LOL
 
You probably need new master control. The fast idle tab gets broken if you don’t apply full throttle before going to choke position. And/or The rod may be out of shape too and may not move forward enough to raise throttle. Bending the angles in rod a little straighter usually cures that.
 
Setting fast idle with no choke is one of the most misunderstood function with modern saws. Gone are the good old saws that had a throttle-up button on the rear handle, everyone understood them, so of course they had to go to make things "simpler".
I understand the one-lever control...I just don't like it. I like my on/off to be separate from the choke. I don't mind the choke and fast-idle being together.

I have a 262xp, and there are a couple things I don't like about the saw...but, the controls are good.
 
The 028`s were very popular here and one of Stihl`s better long lasting PRO saws, have gone through more than I can count but one thing I found was the master control would last longer if the throttle trigger was pulled all the way to WOT before pressing the control lever down, release the trigger and then the master control. Seemed to put less strain and wear on the lever arms and cams.
 
So, the control has four positions. Choke/fast/run/off.

I would suggest, get the saw running anyway you can...run it to warm it up a bit. Turn the saw off, move lever to the fast position, and start the saw. Is it running faster than the normal idle speed?
Irhunter, no when restarting the warm saw the speed is unaffected.
 
I think I’ll order a new Master Control. They are inexpensive and would love to have high idle working again. Putting foot in handle and trying to raise the end of my boot to speed throttle is a real pain.

Here is the part number
Stihl 1118 082 0900

Thanks to all that replied, appreciate the help,
Danny
 
I think I’ll order a new Master Control. They are inexpensive and would love to have high idle working again. Putting foot in handle and trying to raise the end of my boot to speed throttle is a real pain.

Here is the part number
Stihl 1118 082 0900

Thanks to all that replied, appreciate the help,
Danny
I’d check you have no or little movement of the throttle plate between high idle and run position.
 
Sometimes that spring clip for the shutoff gets in the wrong position and binds on the throttle bar.
 
I’m going to go out on a limb and say it’s common for the one “fingers” to break off and hence no high idle. Replace the master selector lever and you’ll be good.
I had this same issue with the 028 I rescued
 
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