036 Rebuild

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Goicoechea

ArboristSite Member
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Location
Pullman, WA
I have an old 036 my dad gave me and it isn't running so hot anymore. I was thinking about tearing it apart. The most I have ever done to a saw is replace fuel lines and rebuild carbs but I'd like to think that I am fairly mechanical (rebuilt an old IH tractor, new chevy small block in the pickup and such). What are some things I need to know about rebuilding chainsaws?

I was looking at Bailey's and noticed they only had piston and cyl kits for the 038 magnum. What is the interchangeability between these saws? Will the 038 magnum piston and cyl fit on the 036 Case?

Thanks!!

p.s. - thanks to the generosity of Stihl NW I am now the caretaker of a new MS 441...talk about BAD ASS!!!
 
No input on the saw rebuild. Just wanted to say Go Cougs!

There are plenty of reputable saw folks here. Welcome to the site!
 
Last edited:
the 036 and the 038 are different animals. top ends won't interchange.

if your cylinder is in good shape baileys has a piston and ring set for the 036 for $35

first, do a compression check on it, and pull the muffler and look at the bore and piston.
report back, preferably with pics, and we can help you decide what you will need.
if it looks good, but low on compression, you can probably get away with merely a set of rings
-Ralph
 
I might be able to get my hands on a compression tester. My friend has an 036 PRO and they don't feel much different on the pull start. I'm hoping the cylinder and piston are ok. After the compression test where is the best place to go next?


Definatly GO COUGS!!!...too bad they wern't able to play better the other night.
 
the 036 and the 038 are different animals. top ends won't interchange.

if your cylinder is in good shape baileys has a piston and ring set for the 036 for $35

first, do a compression check on it, and pull the muffler and look at the bore and piston.
report back, preferably with pics, and we can help you decide what you will need.
if it looks good, but low on compression, you can probably get away with merely a set of rings
-Ralph


Good post there Ralph. To the point and 100% on the money!!!
 
I might be able to get my hands on a compression tester. My friend has an 036 PRO and they don't feel much different on the pull start. I'm hoping the cylinder and piston are ok. After the compression test where is the best place to go next?


Definatly GO COUGS!!!...too bad they wern't able to play better the other night.

Look for at least 125-130 lbs of compression. Any less she's getting tired. If she's hitting at 150 or more you got other issues causing your running problems. Check that compression first, get a good idea of what you have to work with before going any farther. Come back with a reading, many on here will be glad to help you get her running like she should!!
 
If it's 130lb it's a dog... and dying.. Find out why and fix it... During most of the saws life the compression will be around 150..
 
Pulled the muffler off and the piston looks good. Some machining marks on the piston visable and I can't see any verticle marks on the cylinder. I'm still trying to track down a compression tester. I'll post some pictures on here when I get them off the camera.
 
Pulled the muffler off and the piston looks good. Some machining marks on the piston visable and I can't see any verticle marks on the cylinder. I'm still trying to track down a compression tester. I'll post some pictures on here when I get them off the camera.

You can get a compression tester at most any auto parts dealer. Usually 30 bucks or less at a place like Autozone or Oreillys.
 
So I did a little bit of shopping this morning and I couldn't find the exact type of compression tester that was discussed in previous threads and the ones I did find were about 42 bucks. My question is why not just buy the piston and ring set for 36 bucks and use the difference to cover shipping?
 
So I did a little bit of shopping this morning and I couldn't find the exact type of compression tester that was discussed in previous threads and the ones I did find were about 42 bucks. My question is why not just buy the piston and ring set for 36 bucks and use the difference to cover shipping?

Why even do that? From what you said previously about the visual condition of the piston, worst case may be rings. Maybe not even that, looking back to the beginning of your thread you just remark that the saw isn't running so hot any more. I don't see where you or anyone else has justified diving in changing out the piston and rings.

Let us know more about the symptoms and we'll be better placed to advise a cure.

Dan
 
So I did a little bit of shopping this morning and I couldn't find the exact type of compression tester that was discussed in previous threads and the ones I did find were about 42 bucks. My question is why not just buy the piston and ring set for 36 bucks and use the difference to cover shipping?

Because the piston/rings you have will be fine... and what you are about to put in probably aren't as good! Take you saw to a dealer and ask them to check your compression..
 
Wow some days I am retarded. I guess the thought behind the re ring was that I had taken it apart so why not do it now while the saw was down. Bit I had never stopped to fully consider what I was doing. During the tear down last night and upon further inspection all of the hoses are rotten and the intake boot has seen better days so I think I will just replace that stuff and take it to a dealer to be compression and vaccum tested and then decide what to do next.

Thanks guys...
 
Try just replacing the fuel line, filter, boot and impulse... then try it.

Hard to do a pressure test if you don't.. also... get a service manual..
 

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