044 clutch torque

[chainsawjunky]

I don't have a small enough torque wrench for the chainsaw I have. I can get a inch pound torque wrench that goes to 960 inch/lbs but it doesn't torque counterclockwise(i.e. can't torque the clutch). I do have a bigger beam torque wrench but it only goes in increments of ten and the manual calls for 37 ft/lbs on the clutch. So the question is will over torquing the clutch to 40 ft/lbs do anything bad or should I spend more and get a torque wrench that can do clockwise and counterclockwise? Thanks.

Evan

 

[GASoline71]

Get a new wrench... It's an excuse to buy more tools mang!

Gary

 

[Lou]

Do you have access to an inch pounder good to 444?
The beam types don't care about cw or ccw. I cannot recall one AF wrench calibrated for ccw, think majority were capable we just didn't.

 

[chainsawjunky]

Do you have access to an inch pounder good to 444?
The beam types don't care about cw or ccw. I cannot recall one AF wrench calibrated for ccw, think majority were capable we just didn't.

Can you dumb that down a bit? cw? ccw? AF?(air force?) I'm going to have to a buy a inch pounder anyway. It's just that I'm cheap and the clockwise only torque wrench is cheaper. The clutch is left hand threads so the cheaper one wont be able to set that torque.

Evan

 

[GASoline71]

One tool you should never skimp on and buy cheap crap... is a torque wrench. Go buy a quality wrench... You'll thank me later. If you were closer I would let you use mine.

Gary

 

[chainsawjunky]

One tool you should never skimp on and buy cheap crap... is a torque wrench. Go buy a quality wrench... You'll thank me later. If you were closer I would let you use mine.

Gary

Yeah that's what I figured, I should go buy a good one. You can go ahead and ship it to me if you'd like. You might get it back in a year or two:biggrinbounce2:

Evan

 

[Lakeside53]

Can you dumb that down a bit? cw? ccw? AF?(air force?) I'm going to have to a buy a inch pounder anyway. It's just that I'm cheap and the clockwise only torque wrench is cheaper. The clutch is left hand threads so the cheaper one wont be able to set that torque.

Evan

960 inch lb is too big for most chainsaw work.. (except flywheel and clutch) - you really need a 150 inch/lb... and... but... you can't reliably use the "lowest" setting on most wrenches.

40 ft/lb is fine for the clutch... (unless it's your lowest setting). Buy a cheap beam 80 ft/lb wrench for the clutch/flywheel, and a really (yes, $$) good 150 in/lb for the rest of your work.

 

[chainsawjunky]

Ok. I think the manual said 27 ft/lbs for flywheel(correct me if wrong). Think I could torque the flywheel to 30 ft/lbs(my beam wrench goes in increments of 10). If I can that means I can use my beam wrench and then I'll go get a good inch pound torque wrench. Will the 150 work for everything else besides flywheel and clutch? And how much can I expect (yes, $$) to be? Thanks.

Evan

 

[Lou]

'/Lbs x 12 = "/lbs.
CW = clockwise = tighten right handed thread
CCW = counter clockwise = tighten left handed thread
NEVER use a torque wrench to loosten anything!
beam type torque wrenches are the least expensive and maintain their calibration the best.
AF = Air Force (20 years, 2 months, 28 days) = part of my job was calibration of torque wrenches.
Break away torque wrenches - Jo-Line and Utica were the best at maintaining calibration. CDI (Consolidated Devices Incorporated) was the worst!!! If you buy CDI break away get a ratchet head so it will good for something!!! I condemned TONS of brand new CDI break away torque wrenches. Remember to set break away torque wrenches to their lowest setting when not in use; leaving them at an elevated point WILL effect the calibration.
Exercising break away torque wrenches 3-5 times before use will yeild a more accurate break.


CDI dial type may be the best available and worked without fault.

 

[Lakeside53]

Evan - 150 works for me (for years) 4, 5 and 6mm screws are only good to less than that anyhow!

I have a POS Shucks torque wrench that doesn't do the clutch, and a really expensive Tonichi wrench (it's a BRAND NEW $400 wrench that I paid $27 on ebay - callibrated in KG Cmf, but I can work with that!), but it also is only for Standard threads. My 150 in/lbs is a Snap-on dial type calibrated in foot lb - (12) also less then $40 on ebay (no one seems to be able to multiply by 12....).

Buy a good wrench, and if it's used, check it against another or get it calibrated.

 

[GASoline71]

You can spend around $100 bucks at Sears and get a decent Craftsman torque wrench.

Gary

 

[Lou]

Snap-on made good torque wrenches too. Only problem I recall with them was on in line (looked like spin handle, for torquing panels). There was an internal disk with multiple holes. When torque value exceeded bearing rode up and snapped into next set of holes. The disks were very hard to prevent wear and were brittle. they broke in half.


Lower 10% of zero through X wrenchs is NOT tested and may have considerable error.

 

[Lou]

You can spend around $100 bucks at Sears and get a decent Craftsman torque wrench.

Gary

Gary;
Craftsman had a small window where you read the set torque value. Those wrenches were often near the edges of tolerable error. Once set they maintained the setting with few problems.

 

[GASoline71]

Gary;
Craftsman had a small window where you read the set torque value. Those wrenches were often near the edges of tolerable error. Once set they maintained the setting with few problems.

Those are the older models and were junk... the newer ones are mucho better.

Gary

 

[Lou]

Bad military torque wrenches are supposed to go to DRMO (salvage) where they are auctioned off to the highest bidder. I cannot speak for all installations but if I sent them to salvage they weren't good for anything except scrap. Any useful pieces and shims were removed before returning them to the owner. I went so far as using a tubing cutter to remove the top 1/8" of the micrometer display on Jo-Line wrenches to extend their useful life before scrapping.