044 Issues

[Lumberjack]

I have a 98' 044 that runs like a champ, never given me any problems pulling up to a 36" bar. It has had a modded muffler for a little over 2 years, its mainstay is a 20" bar with an 8 pin sprocket.

Here is my problem.

The 2 bolts that hold the muffler to the can backed out (not sure why after 2 years since the last time I was in there). Long story short the left hole is buggered and I need advice.

The bolt hole.

The cylinder wall.

As you can see the cylinder is in great shape and the compression is still good (havent tested it but it will hold its weight on the starter cord).

Any thoughts on a repair? Tap it for the next size up bolt?

Second issue/thought:

Spark plugs, 088 right, 044 left. Question, the 044 looks good to me, the 088 seems a bit rich. Correct? Any thoughts?

 

[Lumberjack]

The 088KD for you fellas to see (I am proud of it) 41" bar.

 

[DanManofStihl]

The plugs don't look to bad for me I would put some lock tight on the muffler bolts. I have never had a problem with them backing out before. I pt anti sieze on all my bolts and stuff.

 

[thompson1600]

Get an M5 helicoil kit and repair it with that. That is a M5 bolt and a helicoil will fix it real quick.

Tom

 

[whatsnext]

Have you got the left/right thing mixed up with those two plugs? The one on the right looks much leaner than the one on the left, which I think looks fine. It would help to know how much time is on each plug but if the one one the right has been run for a good while I'd say that saw is too lean. Just me but I would rather change plugs than pistons.
John......

 

[Lumberjack]

The plugs are correct. The right one is from 98' came in the 044. The plug on the left is from the 088, which is basically still new.

They both run on the same fuel, 50:1 Stihl, regular.

The carb on the 044 has been set at basically the same level for 2 years now.

 

[046]

would not heli-coil stripped stud, unless there is no other way. risk of getting metal too thin to support.

best way is to use an SAE stud, which is slightly larger than metric stud. existing hole is probably wallered out and will accept SAE tap without need to enlarge hole further.

after cutting new threads insert new SAE stud and use SAE nut to match stud. will be as strong as original stud if done properly.

this is how I fixed a stripped stud on my stilh 034 super

 

[Lumberjack]

I think I would rather put in a stud than a heli coil, but I am not decided yet. Its not wallered out, the threads on the bolt wont start, the whole is two small.

I also considered grind down the threads on the tip of the bolt to help it get started, hopefully the next time I have the muffler of is when I will be doing a rebuild on it.

 

[scottr]

Threads

Carl , if the threads in the jug are not damaged then maybe locktite or some other type of thread sealant has been pulled forward when you removed the muffler screw . The hole on the left looks larger than the right . Are the left and right threads the same ? Here is a thread that might help . http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=7885

 

[Lumberjack]

Here is two slightly different angle.

The hole on the left is smaller and not a circle. Not sure what did it but you can see the mark running down into the treaded area.

 

[Ax-man]

LJ,

How long has that muffler been running loose, the outside of that port looks, well let's say rough on the left side. Did you lose the gasket some how, I think that is why your bolts shook out. JMO too, those plugs look very lean, especially the right one, should be a light brown, I'd richen those saws up a tad, you don't want to lose them lotta money invested in those saws. The piston is starting to show signs of scoring.

Not trying to be critical, just trying to be helpful based on what I see is all.

Larry

 

[Lumberjack]

The gasket and plate were still there, both of the bolts were not.

I am not sure how long, perhaps up to a day, maybe 3 tanks? I was running the saw when the gasket let loose and sent a stream of exhaust up, burning a whole through the plastic, in the center under the handle. Daniel said he heard something rattling and gave it to me to inspect. I didnt have the time or the concern to really look, it still ran, so I told him to run it. He noticed the idle speed picked up, and told me, I did nothing. I bet thats what is making it run lean, now that I think about what I know, the white is much to hot/lean for good practice, and would explain the increased idle speed (lean) and the light scoring. I just went and took another peak into the cylinder, and I agree that it does have light scoring, but is still serviceable, IMO, for now at least. If I would have been running the saw that lean for the last 2 years, I would think the cylinder would be shot, thats way too lean, and I am crazy for thinking it was normal.

The left side of the port does indeed look rough, to put it nicely. It looks like I hit it with a hammer and smashed the threads. I am going to try to bevel a bolt down to make it work, next time I take the muffler off will be for a rebuild I bet. The saw is from 98, so it has had a good life, but I bet there is another year in it, at least this summer. I will pick up another 044 later on, perhaps an 046 (new).

When a saw is rebuilt, would it be worth it if the bottom end needed help? I am new to saws but I am getting interested in them. Right now I am the high bidder on a 026 on ebay. If i get it (1 hour) I plan on tearing it down and doing some light porting and such to see how I like it. Need to read up on the current theorys of 2 cycle, I understand 4, but 2 is a different ball game, a fun one at that!

 

[Ax-man]

LJ,

Your 44 has a long way to go before it becomes unusable, it's a Sthil, right I have a 76 that looks way worse than that, but still going strong.

As far as rebuiiding one, especially the bottom end, if you do the work yourself, you have to ask the question. How much do I value this saw?? Splitting a crankcase is work, period, it is not easy either and very time consuming to do it right. The deeper you get into an engine and it doesn't matter if it is 2 or 4 stroke, your chances also increase in screwing something up in the disassembly and the reassembly if your not familiar with what your doing. If your not familiar with how to break a saw down, I'd find a junker give away saw to practice on, they are all basically the same in the way they are put together.

A big saw is worth the time and expense to rebuild, you will get your money back over time, a small one is not, better to get a new one.

Hope this helps a little

Larry

 

[Lumberjack]

Thanks Larry, ya did help.

 

[klickitatsacket]

When I see this I like to go to the 046 / 066 cylinder screws. These are slightly bigger. Drill out for a tap, but you do not have to tap the holes. Apply a little WD40 to the screw and thread them in. I have done this a couple dozen times with no problems. If you are out in the field and need to keep working; take a handle bar corse thread screw and use it to get you by for the day. The money it will cost to have it welded (about $20) when you get back into town doesn't even come close to what a down day costs.

 

[scottr]

better view

Carl , the second and third pictures do show the out of round hole . Looks like someone tried to make a lock thread by peening the jug . What do the screws look like ? Maybe new screws and high temp locktite would work .

 

[Lumberjack]

I have other saws to get buy with, but it will be nice to get the saw back. I may do that Dean, I am not sure what I am waiting for?

Scott, noone hit the thread, and both of the screws are gone. I have new screws, the left one wont start, thats the problem, not only is it outta round but its also smaller in diameter.

I think the first thing I will try is grinding the screw to make it similar to a self tapping screw and give it a go. Then drill and tap.

 

[scottr]

Threads

Carl , it's possible to make a lock type nut by peening a nut on the outside to distort the threads and it looks like someone tried to do something similar to tighten up the threads on the left side of the jug .

 

[Lumberjack]

Scott, I understand, and I agree, something hit it, however noone hit it. Its been my saw since 98 and I have been the only person in it, and I have never done such practice on my saws.

I am going to grind the screw now and see if that will make it get in there.