075 Questions

[Yellowbeard]

I posted this video in another thread related to milling some walnut, but I wanted to post it here are well to see if anyone's ears could pick up anything.

Milling Walnut - First Cut - YouTube

Took my 075 out for a test mill today for the first time and it got REALLY hot. The frame seemed quite a bit hotter than I would have expected. I have another old Stihl with a magnesium body and it never gets this hot. Not sure why, and, frankly, I don't know enough about this saw to be able to diagnose. I am fairly mechanically inclined and can do some work on the saw if necessary, but need help from someone who knows their way around the saw.

Can anyone send me a pdf of the manual? That would be a great place to start, probably. I'll take anything anyone has on the saw so I can start reading up.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Yellowbeard]

Feel free to make fun of me and tell me what I am doing wrong, by the way. I could use the advice.

 

[RandyMac]

Feel free to make fun of me and tell me what I am doing wrong, by the way. I could use the advice.

your mother dresses you funny

 

[Yellowbeard]

your mother dresses you funny

Well I've got news for you: I dress myself so Ha Ha - jokes on yo.....er... hmmm....

 

[mad murdock]

How clean is the saw under the starter/fuel tank? And how free is air to pass across the cylinder to the muffler side? If the saw is dirty, and has the typical years of baked on cooked on sawdust and oil grime, it could be acting as insulation and not allowing the heat to escape.

 

[Nato]

Take the starter off the saw and check to see if the flywheel has all the cooling fins. Then use compressed air to clean out the cooling fins on the jug.(and the rest of the saw) I use compressed air to clean my saws after milling everytime. Also let the saw idle after you finish your cut to cool down. I have a stand (4x4) that i put my saw down on after the cut. It keeps it 4 inches off the ground to promote better cooling at idle. Buy longer bolts for your alaskan so they stick through the bottom clamping bar, Then drill two holes in the 4x4 to accept the longer bolts. This way you can put your saw down on the 4x4s and it won't vibrate off the board. I've found that my saw(880) cools down faster if you rev the saw a couple times (no load) when it is sitting on its stand. I read a thread here a while back about how BOBL put a temp. sensor on his saw.....Now mine has one of course! Good luck and safe milling!

 

[chainsawdad]

I posted this video in another thread related to milling some walnut, but I wanted to post it here are well to see if anyone's ears could pick up anything.

Milling Walnut - First Cut - YouTube

Took my 075 out for a test mill today for the first time and it got REALLY hot. The frame seemed quite a bit hotter than I would have expected. I have another old Stihl with a magnesium body and it never gets this hot. Not sure why, and, frankly, I don't know enough about this saw to be able to diagnose. I am fairly mechanically inclined and can do some work on the saw if necessary, but need help from someone who knows their way around the saw.

Can anyone send me a pdf of the manual? That would be a great place to start, probably. I'll take anything anyone has on the saw so I can start reading up.

Thanks in advance.

I would start by turning both the carb screws out 1/4 turn to make sure its not running lean and check the cooling vents are kept clear as these can clog up especially when used on a mill obviously check the fuel mix is right check cooling fins are clear let me know how you get on. with stihl oil this saw runs on 40.1 not 50.1 regards alan.

 

[BobL]

I would also do a crankcase pressure test.

 

[Yellowbeard]

I would start by turning both the carb screws out 1/4 turn to make sure its not running lean and check the cooling vents are kept clear as these can clog up especially when used on a mill obviously check the fuel mix is right check cooling fins are clear let me know how you get on. with stihl oil this saw runs on 40.1 not 50.1 regards alan.

Ok, this is one where I am confused. I can only seem to find what I think is the low idle screw (right side of carb with bar pointing away from me). Do you have to disassemble to find the high idle? I was worried it might be running lean.

Thanks.

W.C.

 

[BobL]

Ok, this is one where I am confused. I can only seem to find what I think is the low idle screw (right side of carb with bar pointing away from me). Do you have to disassemble to find the high idle? I was worried it might be running lean.

There is no "high speed idle" there is only a low speed idle
There are screws that set the fuel/air mix at high and low revs (called H and L screws) like this

It sounds like you need to get a hold of the manual.
It's a bit too for my email system.
There used to be a "beg for manual" thread in the Chainsaw forum that might be worth a try.

 

[Yellowbeard]

I would start by turning both the carb screws out 1/4 turn to make sure its not running lean and check the cooling vents are kept clear as these can clog up especially when used on a mill obviously check the fuel mix is right check cooling fins are clear let me know how you get on. with stihl oil this saw runs on 40.1 not 50.1 regards alan.

Whoops. Was running at 50:1. May have run 2/3-3/4 of a tank through it. Think I've ruined it? Thanks.

I found the carb screws (finally). They are hard to see back in there. Which one is high and which one is low and how should they /start/. I thought I read 1 and 1/4 turns out to start somewhere. Then I can adjust them from there. Thanks!

 

[Yellowbeard]

There is no "high speed idle" there is only a low speed idle
There are screws that set the fuel/air mix at high and low revs (called H and L screws) like this

It sounds like you need to get a hold of the manual.
It's a bit too for my email system.
There used to be a "beg for manual" thread in the Chainsaw forum that might be worth a try.

Sorry - meant "high throttle" I guess. Yeah, wouldn't be idling if I had the hammer down by the definition of "idle," eh?

I will go beg. Can you answer my other question, re: how should they start and also, I probably ran 3/4 of a tank of 50:1 through it today in ignorance. Have I ruined it?

I am thinking you want me to do a compression test to see if I have an exhaust leak which is heating up the chassis, no?

So, when I fire it up and run it for maybe a minute (which I was doing as I was mucking about with the high/low screws) the exhaust manifold immediately gets VERY hot - as in I dripped sweat on it and it was sizzling after that much time. Normal? Assume this could easily be so, but want to confirm.

View attachment 303596View attachment 303597

Here's what things look like under the fuel tank before I blew them out - pretty clean I felt like.

Seller on ebay stated good compression and my service shop didn't mention that there was a problem when they went through it and that is actually something I would expect them to have done if that helps.

I suspect I am running it too lean, if I were honest.

 

[Yellowbeard]

Got manual and carb manual thanks to some nice folks on the thread (Bobl, you're a saint as is old-cat).

Adjusted the screws to factory, put the right mix in (40:1) and she fired right up and sounded brilliant.


Thanks for the help!

Will post more milling pics soon. 48" rails are on their way to me. It's the 50" bar (thinking this one: New Cannon "Superbar" 50 inch Chainsaw Bar 404 Pitch 063 Gauge | eBay) that's going to be a tough buy to swallow, so if anyone knows where I can get a line on one cheaper....

 

[discounthunter]

how wide is your guide board. it looks like you had front to back wobble,which binds the chain . also ,what chain/chain angle are you using.that small of a log should not have bogged down an 075. lastly you might need an auxillary oiler. i could tell if it was just dust or a little smoke coming from the tip side.

 

[Yellowbeard]

how wide is your guide board. it looks like you had front to back wobble,which binds the chain . also ,what chain/chain angle are you using.that small of a log should not have bogged down an 075. lastly you might need an auxillary oiler. i could tell if it was just dust or a little smoke coming from the tip side.

Guide board was only 8 inches - too narrow I agree - not usually what I would use (I typically go for rails and will do so with the rest of the wood). There could have been some binding, I suppose.

Chain is 10 degrees with no skips - just normal chain ground to 10 degrees. I do need an aux oiler and will have one before I attempt the larger stuff.

Thanks for the advice/comments.

 

[flashhole]

Glad you are back on track. Post some pics of your milling.

Nato - is walnut accounting for all that brown sawdust in your 3rd pic.

 

[Yellowbeard]

Glad you are back on track. Post some pics of your milling.

Nato - is walnut accounting for all that brown sawdust in your 3rd pic.

Got 48" bars in yesterday for the mill. That will let me run my 36" bar which I took into the shop to get a chain for last week. Since I was taking the saw in to get a chain anyway and was waiting on the bar I told them it had been running hot and asked them to just look it over again for me. On a waiting list and expect the saw back mid-late next week.

I think I can get about 30-32" of actual cutting with the 36" bar, which will let me do all but the largest log. So I plan to do that next and then decide if I need to go ahead and get a bigger bar. However, the next bar would be 50" and would set me back 300 bucks, so I may have to see if I can sell a bit of this walnut first to cover the cost - we'll see.


Will post more pics as I get more cut. Thanks for the support.

W.C.

 

[flashhole]

I have a 36" bar on my 30" mill. I can mill ~28" and I will be putting it to the test tomorrow on a big Ash log (not to be confused with a big As$ log) with my Husky 394.

 

[BlueRider]

I've been running 50:1 in my 075 & 051 while milling with a 42" bar for nearly 20 years with no problems. I'm also a big proponent of using Stihl HP Ultra mix oil.

Check the depth rakers on your chain. I run 404 chain and a7 pin rim sprocket and I file the rakers .045". For a stock chain standard is .025" but that saw has the power to pull at .045"with no problems. I do run a pretty steep hook to make the chain less grabby and to cut down on the time between sharpenings.. A steep hook makes the chain more prone to kickbacks so it should only be used for milling, particularly in a saw like the 075 that dissent have a chain brake.

A leak down test is not to test for exhaust leaks but to check the crank seals and case gasket. If they are leaking it will cause a drop in compression and will also allow extra air to enter the crank case on the up strike and make the saw run lean and over heat. I've not had any problems with the crank seals on my saws and one is an early 70's vintage that has seen a lot of hard use. At the same time these are 30-40 year old saws and rubber seals will not last forever.

 

[Nato]

flashhole- yup, I made a whole lot of it that day!