100cc + saw, but which chain?

[RaisedByWolves]

OK, heres my quandary.


I recently acquired a Homie 650 (100cc) and a Homie 750 (112cc) saws.



The 750 came with a 3/8" skip chisel chain and I also have a full comp .404 chisel bar/chain to put on this saw. (Both round ground)


I sharpened the Skip chain, ran it and was able to push as hard as I wanted without significantly bogging the saw. I should also mention that I took the rakers down to .045 due to this being skip. The saw cut fine and was fairly fast, but after doing some mental gymnastics I figure that twice as many teeth (full comp) should cut faster even with the rakers untouched.



And If I ran the rakers at .035?



My question is, what chain size should I use to get the most out of this saw?



Is their any advantage to running .404 other than the fact that I already have it?



Any advantage to running skip on a long bar as long as the saw will pull full comp?



Will it break the 3/8 if used with a long (36-42")bar and modded rakers?





Now that I have the 356/360, 450, 550, 650, 750 lineup complete will I finally be able to stop buying saws?



.

 

[Bill G]

OK, heres my quandary........................
......................................................
Now that I have the 356/360, 450, 550, 650, 750 lineup complete will I finally be able to stop buying saws?................................



.

Yes that is one way to think about it. Give me a ring some evening and I will go over a few more you need to add.

Bill

 

[Bill G]

As for the chain question I will get beat up on this one. Unless you are trying to win a pissing match or are running in a race it really does not matter. You should run what you have or what you like. If you are running the saw for pleasure you will be pleased with what the saw will do no matter the chain. When I am cutting for personal use I will assure you I do not run the fastest chains I have

Bill

 

[Lakeside53]

what he said!!!!

And yes... you can finish buying those homies and get into collecting some real saws - you know.. those with orange/gray

 

[SawTroll]

..... The saw cut fine and was fairly fast, but after doing some mental gymnastics I figure that twice as many teeth (full comp) should cut faster even with the rakers untouched.. .....

Not twice as many teeth, about 50% more, depending on the exact DL count......

 

[computeruser]

I went over the same thought process with my 075 and 076 (both 111cc). Settled on 3/8" for now, full comp on the smaller bars. The saws can be leaned on with the 8t sprocket, and would probably be fine with a 9t as well. I suspect that the powerband on the Homelites and their behavior with 3/8" chain would be pretty similar.

Incidentally I run full-comp, 8t on my 066 with a 28" bar and it isn't phased by it. So I think that a 9t might be the answer on the big saws with mid-length bars, assuming you can get such things for the Homelites.

 

[habanero]

The only upside to skip is less sharpening. Otherwise, I agree with Bill.

 

[romeo]

3/8 full comp all the way, you will get the most out of your saw. It will cut faster and the chain is mucho cheaper. The only reason I use .404 is when the hp gets a little bit to high for the 3/8.

 

[andrethegiant70]

In the past I have used both .404 and 3/8 in my milling operations. I have gone to all 3/8 at this point as I did not find an advantage to .404. It is a bit harder to find these days and the kerf is substantially wider meaning that, at the very LEAST, you get to keep less wood. I have used the 3/8 with 30in wood with no breakage or excessive wear.

3/8 should be easier on the saw and should go through the wood faster. As far as sharpening goes, yes it takes a little more time. I just challenged myself to move a little faster. What I get out of the 3/8 more than makes up for a few minutes of extra sharpening time.

 

[Al Smith]

I personally use .404 full comp on my large saws,Homie 2100,two 125 Macs and a 105 Mac.24" on the 105 and 36" to 48" on the other 3.

I have both skip and full comp 36" loops but I see little difference in these hardwoods.

I once tried a short bar[18'] with an 8 tooth 3/8" on one of the 125's but it really didn't seem to cut any faster.

To get down to brass tacks,so to speak,those old clydsdale saws will still hold their own against a modern saw.Having said that,in a grudge match sawing exibition,unless highly modded,they won't out cut them.

Generally speaking a person would seldom use a 100 plus cc saw.With that in mind any good chain combo would suffice.They will actually cut quite well with a chipper chain.

An after thought,not really on the subject but a 2100 Homey is rather limited as to what sized rim configuration,only one,.404 by 8.This thing in stock form uses a 6 spline clutch drum.An alternative could be to modify a large Mac clutch drum which incidently is the same diametric size but the bearing is a tad different.

 

[HomeDelight Man]

Hi,
Homelite made a 7-spline hub for the 2100's, although they are had to find. Of course I have one for my 2100's. I think it is shown in the Super 2100 Auto IPL as a optional hub. I use .404" on most of the 100cc and up reed valve Homedelights, but 3/8" on my 650's and 750's, 1/2" on the gear drives.

Jonathan

 

[RaisedByWolves]

3/8 full comp all the way, you will get the most out of your saw. It will cut faster and the chain is mucho cheaper. The only reason I use .404 is when the hp gets a little bit to high for the 3/8.

Would you know what the HP point is?

Im concerned that a 28-32" bar buried in some tasty hardwoods might be too much for the full comp 3/8. HP is HP, but when your pulling all fo those teeth through wood and you get chatter and such....

In the past I have used both .404 and 3/8 in my milling operations. I have gone to all 3/8 at this point as I did not find an advantage to .404. It is a bit harder to find these days and the kerf is substantially wider meaning that, at the very LEAST, you get to keep less wood. I have used the 3/8 with 30in wood with no breakage or excessive wear.

3/8 should be easier on the saw and should go through the wood faster. As far as sharpening goes, yes it takes a little more time. I just challenged myself to move a little faster. What I get out of the 3/8 more than makes up for a few minutes of extra sharpening time.

Gotcha!


The .404 will take more power per # of cutters since its cutting a wider kerf, wont it?




And AL, I think you may be right!


Just dont tell anyone that the 750 is only 3 ounces heavier than a 3120.

 

[redprospector]

Would you know what the HP point is?

Im concerned that a 28-32" bar buried in some tasty hardwoods might be too much for the full comp 3/8. HP is HP, but when your pulling all fo those teeth through wood and you get chatter and such....

I could be wrong, but I don't think the 750 will reach that HP point. One of my friends runs a Kawasaki KX125 bike saw with 3/8" full comp race chain, and there isn't near as much meat in the body of that race chain as a stock chain. :chainsawguy:

Andy

 

[Bill G]

Hi,
Homelite made a 7-spline hub for the 2100's, although they are had to find. Of course I have one for my 2100's. I think it is shown in the Super 2100 Auto IPL as a optional hub. I use .404" on most of the 100cc and up reed valve Homedelights, but 3/8" on my 650's and 750's, 1/2" on the gear drives.

Jonathan

The 7 spline drives are tough to get but they are around. I will not part with any. The real kicker is I have rims for the 6 spline in 7/16, 1/2, and I believe 9/16. They are of no real use but I still have them. On the gear drives I am working on some options. I have a 3100G with 3/8. It is not a good use of power but it is different.

Bill

 

[Al Smith]

. I have a 3100G with 3/8. It is not a good use of power but it is different.

Bill

Well,that would be interesting,to say the least.Lawdy me though,if that thing snagged a nasty knot it would pull the chain apart.

 

[mattinky]

OK, heres my quandary.
Now that I have the 356/360, 450, 550, 650, 750 lineup complete will I finally be able to stop buying saws?
.

Laugh is right! Do you honestly expect us to believe that you're going to stop buying saws?



Matt

 

[Bill G]

Well,that would be interesting,to say the least.Lawdy me though,if that thing snagged a nasty knot it would pull the chain apart.

The chain is turning a bit faster also

Bill

 

[SawTroll]

The only upside to skip is less sharpening. Otherwise, I agree with Bill.

On short term, yes, maybe - but in the result will be evened out because you will need to do it more often, and chain life probably shorter, as fewer teeth will have to do the same amount of cutting........

Just think of it........