1974 john deere 440b skidder question

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mifirewoodguy

I live off of 2 stroke gas and fresh cut oak.
Joined
Aug 20, 2007
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Location
Fenton,Michigan
I'm looking at buying a 1974 John Deere 440b skidder, it comes with a second sidder same model and same year with a bad motor but everything else is good. The guys asking $10,000 for both. Seeing as though this is my first skidder purchase what are some of the things I need to look at and check out before making the purchase. I've heard it run and seems to start and run fine but havent seen it work yet but planning on it..thanks for the help....Lee
 
It's a buyers market, remember that first.

That's an OLD machine now. They sure did well for themselves back in the day though.
If you must have it, then put the thing on to a decent hitch, then work it. Failing that, put the blade up to a stout stump or rock and see if it'll turn ALL 4 tires trying to push it.
The powershift tranny is the big thing. If it's all good, the rest is fairly minor.

I'd shop around though...buyer's market. ESPECIALLY in Michigan. If you could get into a 540B or 540D with a grapple and a winch for around $15K, you'd be silly not to jump on it IMO.
 
I've got a 1973 440b, they are pretty good little machines.
What I'd look at if it was me.
1. Are the center pins good?
2. How are the tires? Tires are going to cost about $1500 each, so that's another $6000 you could be spending.
3. How's the compression in the engine?
4. Is the hydraulic pump up to par? You can rig a pressure gauge to the blade cylinder. Should be a 1/2" O ring fitting. The pressure should read 2200 to 2300 psi, if it is below 1800 you will have to rebuild or replace the pump. John Deere wants $2500 for one.
5. Check for hydraulic leaks. Leaks in lines can be fixed easy enough, but if the steering valve is leaking that's another $1200 for a rebuilt one, if the blade valve is leaking.......well, they don't make those anymore and you'll have to upgrade. That's another $600. The transmission is the hydraulic tank on the 440's and it only holds about 5 gallons. It dosen't take much of a leak to leave you stranded, and if you're coming down a steep slope it can get pretty western.
6. Check to see if there is fluid in the front and rear diff's.
I haven't had to spend much at all on mine for the last several years, but I've spent 5 grand on it this year and it's going to need tires before the year's over. But it has paid for itself, and every dime I've ever put into it.
The 440 is the perfect skidder for what I do, and is pretty productive in small stuff. It is a lot lower geared than most bigger skidders, but it only has a 70 horse engine.
Oldtimer is right, it's a buyer's market in this economy. I'd try to beat him up a little on the price. You are looking at a 37 year old skidder after all.

Andy
 
I agree its a buyers market, the one Im looking at has fairly decent forestry tires on it I havent seen the parts machine yet, I did notice that when he put the plow up it stuttered on its way up at idle. theres been some welding done to it too here and there. Its not the purdiest machine Ive seen but in the woods who cares?... He's also willing to let me make payment with 25% down which is very enticing. I need to see it work and will check alot more when I do.. I'll keep you guys abreast of my finds. I agree that the 440B would work perfect for our application, small and nimble but powerful, I dont skid alot of bnig stuff usually in the 8"-20" range sometimes a little bigger but not alot of that. I'm thinking about an oil analysis too, tells ya alot about internal motor workings. The biggest thing Im worried about is buying a money pit as you described, I'm short on capital as it is so fixing big ticket items isnt that easy for me... Thanks fopr all your input...Lee
 
The blade "stuttering" on the way up at an idle is a good sign of low fluid level, or air in the system. Check for leaks!!
As far as the parts machine...........well, you can bet that the best one is still running.
Make sure those welds are done right, and aren't a bunch of bubble gum some hack dobbed on there. It's way more work to prep and reweld than it is to do it right the first time. Depending on where the welds are, that's usually a good sign of a little machine being used real hard. I hope you're mechanicaly inclined because it is a 37 year old skidder, and I promise that you will be wrenching on it. Most parts are still available through John Deere, but they ain't cheap.
Don't let the offer to tote the note affect your decision. At that price you need to make sure it's right. A turd that's financed is still just a turd, even if it does look like a skidder.

Andy
 
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