1st post- Problem w/ 032 AV- can't get it to start, tried lots of stuff and $$

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upovr

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Hi all,
Great site! I have searched for hours w/ my particular problem and can't seem to find the answers. Probably just not searching the right words. Any direction or thread links would greatly be appreciated.

Saw: Stihl 032 AV, I bought it at a local swap meet for $40. It burped when I tried to start it, it was real low on gas. I figured it would fire right up w/ some new gas. Guy said he was told it ran when he bought it at the estate sale.

It doesn't!

What it does:
The saw has great compression. You have to put your foot on it to start it. Spark was blue, and I think it looked ok...not familiar with what and how big the spark should be. The plug looks new.

You choke it, set trigger to high idle and it fires on second pull for 1 sec. Move the choke to open and it fires again for 1-2 seconds. It will keep doing this maybe four or more times. I pulled the plug and it was wet. Maybe too wet?
Last night I choked it and it fired the same. Then I barely moved the choke over and it ran for maybe 5-10 sec. I Could not get it to do that again before I gave up.

What I have done:
Changed the Air Filter,
Changed the fuel tank pick up (I thought it was soft), checked and cleaned pick up fuel filter.
I pulled the impulse hose and checked for leaks. It wasn't cracked. I attached it to the carb and sucked on it and I could feel suction on the fuel barb off the carb that goes to the fuel tank.
I relaced the fuel line from tank to carb.
I attached the impulse line back on the engine and cranked over the motor and could feel suction from the crank case.
I took a part the carb cleaned the high and low needle and set them at 1 1/4 turns each (I'm about 600ft above sea level). Took apart the main jet, inspected. It looked good. diaphragms looked good. Weren't real wavy, seemd soft and supple. Carb was pretty clean inside. I didn't have any "Eureka, that's the problem!" moments. I cleaned fuel strainer.
Also, I poured fuel in top of carb and it didn't leak thru the needle seat. I pressed on main jet needle and fuel flowed out the bottom.
Manifold boot is not torn or rotted.
Carb is air tight as far as I could tell
What I haven't done:
carb kit
crankcase or compression test
compression seems really strong.

Some things I think are weird:
fuel siphons from tank when cap is on and fuel line is disconnected and hanging below. Is that normal? Doesn't seem to be flooding (no fuel leaking out of carb) As soon as you open the cap it will stop. I can blow thru the vent. seems kind hard, but maybe that is the norm w/ the small hole and the check ball in there. I tried to start it with cap off. No difference.


Sorry for the super long first post...Just wanted to give everyone all the info I could think of to see what they think. I need some direction before I throw more $$ and parts at it and not fix the problem.

Thanks,
Grayson

Edit:
UPDATE:
I put a kit in the carb and that didn't help.
I checked the spark again and it looked weaker than before.
Pulled flywheel and found that the primary coil wire was rubbing and had worn off the wire insulation and was probably shorting at times.
Taped wire and tried again. No difference.
Installed Omega Ignition module from NAPA P/N: 7-01749
Saw Fired right up. Big difference in spark output.
 
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First of all, welcome to the forum. It definately sounds like you've done your homework. I'm thinking perhaps you've got a bad carb. Fuel coming out of the line when disconnected from the carb is normal. That's just the one-way valve tank vent doing its job. It prevents a vaccum, but allows the buildup of pressure. That's why your needle has to seat well. Sounds like you've covered the bases.
 
One thing I forgot to add. I saw a thread last night about replacing the points with a pointless module.
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=109574&highlight=atom+napa+part+points

He used an Omega module from NAPA and said it did wonders. He had similar problems. Could a bad condenser cause the symptoms?

The only thing that doesn't point to this is that I was able to make it run a little longer by choking it. Thoughts?

Also forgot to add that this saw has a tillotson carb on it. Were these problematic over the Walbro?
 
1 1/4 each sounds like it might be a tad rich on idle....

maybe try 3/4 turn on L. after you check the muffler of course.
 
I have two 032's, one acted exactly as yours. The carb didn't work no matter how many times I rebuilt it! New carb, runs like a dream. The carbs are still available through OPE supply without going through Stihl. At least they were a year or so ago.
 
You miight clean and regap the points, see if it improves, as my vote is for ignition. Then if it improves, then you can look at a module with more
confidence.
But you will likely find that the ignition is the area you should focus on.
 
I have two 032's, one acted exactly as yours. The carb didn't work no matter how many times I rebuilt it! New carb, runs like a dream. The carbs are still available through OPE supply without going through Stihl. At least they were a year or so ago.

So what wears out on the carb? Is it the throttle shaft?

This saw doesn't look like it has had that much use. the paint is in good shape on the bottom. Inside looks good.

If it is the carb is one better than the other? Walbro vs. Tillotson? Can they be swapped out easily for the other?
 
new carb kit and make sure everything is put back together
properly, check and double check , metering lever and gaskets are in the right order.......
then start with 1 turn out on the Low and 1-1/4 turn out on the
High. Then adjust your LA screw.
 
I would also lean towards a carb issue. Order a carb kit, and while your waiting for it to arrive, totally dismantle the carb and let the pieces soak in a jar of (clean) gasoline. It will only cost $10-$12. And if your anything like me, it will give you time to cool down and think clearly. Welcome to the site!
 
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Not to insult you, but..

Grayson;
I didn't see any mention of using mix gas nor the ratio you use.
Please tell me you didn't run straight gas through it..
-br

ps welcome to the forum!
 
ok. went down and picked up a carb kit. replaced all the gaskets. One thing I noticed is the old needle was rubber pointed. The whole tip was rubber. the new one was metal. Pro's & Con's?

So I think I found part of the problem. I pulled the plug again and the spark looked kinda weak this time. I not really sure what it should look like. I know since it is magneto that it is probably a lot weaker than a 12v coil. Should the spark crackle or pop like a car?
Then it seemed kinda sporadic. Strong then weak. So I pulled off the flywheel and I had kinda of a Eureka moment.
It looks like the wire screw clip for the points (there was an empty threaded boss by the wires) is missing. One of the wires had been rubbing the inside of the flywheel. The insulation had rubbed off on one of them down to the copper.
So I taped up the wire and wanted to see if it would fire. Nothing.
The sparked looked ok but now I wonder if the points gap is set right. I don't know if it is sporadic or it is me moving around trying to ground it and pull the rope at the same time. It looks like brand new points in there. No burn marks. How the heck do you set them?
I think I am going to head up to Napa and buy the Omega module and see how that goes.

Thoughts?
 
The new needle tip has a silver colored coating, still is a rubber tip.

But "Eureka"!!!!

That is all I will contribute to this thread......
 
Forgot to mention, I checked the exhaust screen and it was clean. I guess I'll sand down the cover and repaint...I think I'll do the muffler port job once I get it running.

I found a thread earlier on setting the points. My flywheel is one piece and has no windows. So I guess my only option (and maybe cheaper) is to do the conversion??
 
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Am I the only one who noticed that Fish said it was the ignition hours ago? :popcorn:
 
???

Forgot to mention, I checked the exhaust screen and it was clean. I guess I'll sand down the cover and repaint...I think I'll do the muffler port job once I get it running.

I found a thread earlier on setting the points. My flywheel is one piece and has no windows. So I guess my only option (and maybe cheaper) is to do the conversion??

The reality is likely more "sinister", as this "new" guy knows what button
to push.......................

He was/is trolling for a "bite" from a Fish, and he got it.

Sorry, I fell for it..........
 
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