200T Light Bar?

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Nailsbeats

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Do any of you guys have any experience with the Light bar vs. the regular one?

I am going to pick up another 200T 16" before the ruin them with a strato motor and was wondering about the bar option. The $25 extra doesn't bother me, was just wondering if the bar is less durable due to the lighter weight?
 
didnt even know there was one!

That saw balances pretty sweet with a 12" on it which i what most of us in aus seem to go with. I think state side a lot more guys use 14" and 16". It's a real weapon with the 12" bar, and once I need a bigger bar than that I go for a bigger saw. Otherwise I'd be tempted to go one handing 30" branches or chunking down big spars with it ;-)

Shaun
 
I have tried a couple versions:
The one that you can use regular chain on is pretty cool, last for a good while and is durable enough. You will feel the difference.
The slim chain and bar assembly isn't to bad either but I seem to be breaking teeth off of the lighter gauge chain.
 
I have tried a couple versions:
The one that you can use regular chain on is pretty cool, last for a good while and is durable enough. You will feel the difference.
The slim chain and bar assembly isn't to bad either but I seem to be breaking teeth off of the lighter gauge chain.

All of my tophandles have 3/8" Picco .050 gauge that came stock on them and regular Rollomatic E bars.

Are you saying the E-Light series bar takes a slimmer (kerf/gauge)chain? If so, I don't want that, mine cut's good and lasts long the way it is.
 
All of my tophandles have 3/8" Picco .050 gauge that came stock on them and regular Rollomatic E bars.

Are you saying the E-Light series bar takes a slimmer (kerf/gauge)chain? If so, I don't want that, mine cut's good and lasts long the way it is.

I don't think the E Light requires a different chain.

Stihl aslo makes a slim bar and chain combo, I don't know what it called, Oregon makes something simular.
 
I've used it, it is a honeycomb construction, if I recall right. I prefer Bailey's ArborPro line. They run 12-16 bucks.

Yes, i think that is the one. It was a good bar( definatley lighter and more responsive) while it lasted and it did last a good time but HELL! I paid 40 freaking dollars for mine.
I guess its not that bad considering I just paid 18 bucks for a dog harness so my kid could walk the bunny... the bunny had it chewed up and ruined in ten minutes.
So now I use the cheaper stock bars and save my yen for yogurt snacks for bunny rabbits.:msp_confused:
 
Get it for sure. The center is lasered out, and filled with resin. Center, if you lay it flat and look at it. It took quite a bit of weight off mine, and now balances with 16" bar, used to balance with 14". Held up fine so far.
 
Yeah, the 14" is balanced and the 16" a little nose heavy.

The biggest downfall to the E-Light composite bar I could see is bending it and not being able to straighted it like you could a regular bar. That would really bite if you had to junk and expensive bar like that over a little tweaking.

I think I'll stick to the regular one.
 
I've never bent a bar. Must be lucky. If you want a lighter easier to handle saw, the e light bar is a good move.
 
I would seriously try it out. Try 501-626-8212, I buy a bar and a dozen chains off this guy cheaper than the dealer can get them. Serious. Can't remember exact, been since last summer, but like 200 or something for 25" and dozen STIHL full chisel full skip (or whatever) chains.
 
We only use E light bars on our MS200Ts. they are strong and long lasting.
The main reason we chose the E light bars is that they have more flex. They can twist slightly but don't stay bent. All of our teams have been using them for years and I never had any bent bar come back to me.
 
Nels, try the ArborPro line

Bailey's - Chainsaw Bars

I have bent many a bar doing storm work, and having a box of them in the truck is very beneficial. Also I am more likely to have several bars for a given powerhead when a good bar has a good price.

My problem with OEM is that there is way too much mark-up going through the distribution-chain. Loyalty is lost when the cost is around 3:1.
 
I here ya on the mark up John. It does get a bit rediculous and I hate buyers remourse.

On the new saw I have to choose one or the other because they won't sell it without a Stihl bar, or so they say.
 
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I checked out the Arbor Pro and couldn't see that they had a 16" that would fit a 200T listed on the site? I'm sure they do though and could just call them. Thanks for the link John.
 
I used to have a 14" E-lite bar on my works' 200T, It was really nice, well balanced and didn't give me any problems. Then one day a guy took it up in a tree, sat down backwards on a branch, bent the gate out of my little carabiner i used to attach the leash to my harness with and dropped the thing about 20 feet down to the ground. It landed right on the nose and the bar snapped in half like an uncooked lasagna noodle :msp_sad:. The good thing was that it absorbed all the shock of the fall so the powerhead was perfectly fine.

After that we got a 14" regular bar because thats what was available at the dealer. Not a huge difference. I did notice a very slight increase in heft but a more noticable difference in balance. The 14" solid bar felt better balanced than the 14" E-Lite by a bit, it had that extra needed bit of weight behind the tip. I have since gotten my own 200T with a 16" bar and that would probably be better with a 16" E-Lite as far as balance goes. Thats my advice at least.
 
Just to put this thread to bed, I ordered the saw today. I am getting the Regular 16" Rollomatic E bar.

I am getting to old for this new fangled crap, lol.
 

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