288xp crankseal

[padjoe]

Hello all, newbe and novice here, recently bought a rebuilt 281/288. Saw has only had 3 tank fulls ran through it and have a question to ask you fine members

Should you be able to turn a clutch side crankseal by hand, the saw was supposedly rebuilt

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hello all, newbe and novice here, recently bought a rebuilt 281/288. Saw has only had 3 tank fulls ran through it and have a question to ask you fine members

Should you be able to turn a clutch side crankseal by hand, the saw was supposedly rebuilt

Crank seals are meant to be stationary, the crank turns inside them but the body of the seal itself is a very tight fit into the crankcase bore.

 

[padjoe]

I was thinking as much but the saw runs fine in all positions

 

[pioneerguy600]

If the steel portion of the seal is turning as you have stated then it will not stay air tight for long, actually it would be leaking air now if a vac or pressure test was done on it.

 

[padjoe]

Crank seals are meant to be stationary, the crank turns inside them but the body of the seal itself is a very tight fit into the crankcase bore.

If the steel portion of the seal is turning as you have stated then it will not stay air tight for long, actually it would be leaking air now if a vac or pressure test was done on it.

Thanks for your help pioneerguy600, I'll order a vacuum/pressure kit later tonight

 

[Squareground3691]

I’d replace with OEM seal ,

 

[padjoe]

Is it as simple as tapping in a new seal after the old seal is out

 

[Squareground3691]

Is it as simple as tapping in a new seal after the old seal is out

Just be sure not to roll the rubber part over the crank lip when installing, the retainer ring needs to be intacted , use a piece of thin plastic or similar to wrap around crank before you install, will prevent the seal from rolling over, there is OEM sleeves to but not necessary,

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Just be sure not to roll the rubber part over the crank lip when installing, the retainer ring needs to be intacted , use a piece of thin plastic or similar to wrap around crank before you install, will prevent the seal from rolling over, there is OEM sleeves to but not necessary,

I use beer can material, works great

 

[padjoe]

I use beer can material, works great

Plenty of those around

 

[Dennisthemenace]

The seal on the clutch side of the 2 series is in the oil pump (see item 14 in pic attchd). Are you sure that you are seeing the seal turning by hand or maybe you are looking something else? Might be a good idea to post a pic of what you are looking at

 

[padjoe]

Oil pump is off for lack of oil

 

[Czed]

Hello all, newbe and novice here, recently bought a rebuilt 281/288. Saw has only had 3 tank fulls ran through it and have a question to ask you fine members

Should you be able to turn a clutch side crankseal by hand, the saw was supposedly rebuilt

When you replace the seal and i would do that immediately
Replace the oil pump o ring
And a little gasket maker over the o ring will prevent any future air leaks.

 

[Sidecarflip]

No beer cans here as I don't consume alcohol. I use an appropriate diameter socket to set seals and I always apply a bit of red locktite to the outside metal flange of a seal before installing to lock it in the casting bore. I do that with all press in seals if one of my seal drivers isn't of the appropriate diameter and be careful to bottom the seal square against the bottom of the bore. No red locktite? Blue works as well.