2nd time milling

[AaronB]

This is the same Ash tree but two separate 8 foot sections. Can't wait until it dries and I can make something out of it.

Do want to say "thanks" for all the tips I got after I posted my first milling experience. Using the tips I received from you guys, plus having done it once, it made this time go much smoother.

 

[AaronB]

More pics

 

[HitchC&L]

Those slabs look nice, and so does your set up.

What are you planning on building with the wood?

 

[mtngun]

Thank you very much for the pics. Rep'd you (again).

Good on you for wearing the chaps and the face screen.

But, prepare for an ergonomics discussion.

 

[BobL]

Way TO Go AaronB !

Thanks for posting the pics.

 

[AaronB]

But, prepare for an ergonomics discussion.

Funny thing is my back is not what hurt the next day. I only get the log so high, so if there are any technique tips, share away.

 

[BobL]

Funny thing is my back is not what hurt the next day.

So what hurt?

I only get the log so high, so if there are any technique tips, share away.

There are many ways . . . . here's one.

 

[huskyhank]

If getting the log high enough is a problem you can wear knee pads and work from your knees. Your back may not bother you now but you'll be lots happier if it never does.

Think about getting one end of the log higher so you get some help from gravity.

Nice work and nice wood!

 

[Andrew96]

Aaron...ya...way to go. Forget the 2nd time bull...you look like a pro....must be good research. The chaps, helmet, gloves...canora dinner jacket...unistrut...lifted off the ground...clean saw...good chips..nice finish.....what else could you want? I wish my results looked as good.

The wedges I made for myself were longer (and a bit wider) but about the same taper. Bigger ones were easier for me to find in the piles of sawdust. When longer, you don't have to use two like you have done. I cut a notch in one log on the ground so I didn't have to wedge the tree on the base. One cut with a notch...the other left round..you get a bit of fall on the tree even on flat ground. All for my personal preference though.

 

[BobL]

If getting the log high enough is a problem you can wear knee pads and work from your knees.

What!!!! Eeek . . . on your knees . . . . . .nooooooooo . . . . . . say it isn't so.

If I find I can't lift a log it's usually because it 40"+ in diameter and then it doesn't need lifting.

The cheapest and easiest bit of ergo improvement I would suggest is a semi-loose zip tie to be easily able to slip it over the trigger to hold the saw at WOT and then move your left hand up to the wrap handle. This brings the operators arms closer together and will give the operator a slightly more upright stance and reduces the strain on arms and shoulders.

Then the right hand handle on most alaskans are too far forward and or too low, so either move the right hand handle from the milling rails, or add another handle to the full length cross bar. One way of adding a simple handle to the is to use the handlebar stem from a bicycle. This will straighten you up by about 6" further. Top the stem with a nice soft mountain bike grip. While you're at it add two handles.
Like this.

Once the handles are high enough it's not necessary to use ones arms to provide forward pressure but just to act as guides. I then use my knees or hips and just lean on the wrap handle like this. Look at how high up my right hand is on its handle - I call this no sweat milling.

 

[huskyhank]

What!!!! Eeek . . . on your knees . . . . . .nooooooooo . . . . . . say it isn't so.


snipped...........

Yes, on your knees!

But please note I wrote "If getting the log high enough is a problem...."

I'd prefer to stand but not if I'm humped over. The position illustrated in the photos by the OP is just asking for back trouble. If you want to save your back and can't get in a good position standing, then get on your knees.

Having been born tall and with a long torso, I've spent much too much time working humped over. Often kneeling is the best position to work from. When that is the case I use knee pads. Kneeling is much better than squatting. Squatting kills your knees. Kneeling is like standing except you're closer to the ground.

If your knees are bad and you can't kneel that's a different story. Whatever you do, keep your spine in a natural position when working and especially when bending or lifting. That means a slight curve in the lower back (the opposite of humped over) For a very exaggerated example look at an Olympic weight lifter.

 

[mtngun]

I stand up long enough to start the cut, then have a seat on the log or guide board.

 

[huskyhank]

I want to add in here that I'm not saying BobL is wrong. All I'm saying is that kneeling is better than humped over - way better.

 

[AaronB]

If getting the log high enough is a problem you can wear knee pads and work from your knees. Your back may not bother you now but you'll be lots happier if it never does.

Think about getting one end of the log higher so you get some help from gravity.

Nice work and nice wood!

I never did get on my knees, but I did squat down like a catcher, push is far as i could, move forward, repeat. Squatting down helped change the pace once in a while.

So what hurt?

There are many ways . . . . here's one.

My shoulders hurt, the tops of them. It was kind of like I was shrugging, but shrugging for constantly the 8 hours I was doing it.

Is that jack Bob-made or something I could find.

Also, I do like the throttle idea, if I can zip tie that down, having my hands closer together would be more comfortable I think.

 

[BobL]

I never did get on my knees, but I did squat down like a catcher, push is far as i could, move forward, repeat. Squatting down helped change the pace once in a while.

That's fairly common stance. It's not a big dal but I find I get a smoother finish if I keep a constant pressure on the mill all the way thru the log which is why I use a combo of arms/knee/thighs and hips. I arrange my wedges and the hammer on top of the log and I don't usually stop milling to place wedges.

My shoulders hurt, the tops of them. It was kind of like I was shrugging, but shrugging for constantly the 8 hours I was doing it.
Also, I do like the throttle idea, if I can zip tie that down, having my hands closer together would be more comfortable I think.

The aching tops of shoulders and having your arms apart are closely related. Make sure the zip tie is not too tight so it can slip on and off easily. You don't have to use it all the time but being able to vary hand holds is what helps ease the aches.

Is that jack Bob-made or something I could find.

The Jack itself is a standard 48" hi-lift jack that were/are popular with off road people. It will lift 7500 lbs and being at the end of a log it's really only lifting 1/2 the log so it can technically lift one end of a 15000 lb log. Anything heavier that that is going to be a biggish log and I start milling it on the ground. For details look in my signature for "Log lifter" and "Log lifter 2"