3/8 to 404 conversion

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Dave0846

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hi all

i have a 24' carlton bar that i have replaced the 3/8 tip for a 404 one.
my question is, is the 3/8 is 84dl what does that equate to in 404?

help appreciated
 
My math came to 74 DL for 404 on 25” bar that uses 84 3/8 dL

I just put a new chain on my 075 for the first time from a spool of chain. I put the bar adjustment to the half way position and put the chain on. Little less might work also. Can’t go to far back or the chain won’t come off lol
 
hi all

i have a 24' carlton bar that i have replaced the 3/8 tip for a 404 one.
my question is, is the 3/8 is 84dl what does that equate to in 404?

help appreciated

How come the change to .404” chain may I ask? I ran 404 chains on my 2100’s because the longer teeth lasted longer. If I hit nothing. I’d get the whole winter season of cutting on one 404 chain. With the 3/8” chain I’d wearout 2 for sure maybe a third one.
 
How come the change to .404” chain may I ask? I ran 404 chains on my 2100’s because the longer teeth lasted longer. If I hit nothing. I’d get the whole winter season of cutting on one 404 chain. With the 3/8” chain I’d wearout 2 for sure maybe a third one.
Doing alot of ringing on ****** stuff just being lazy and trying to go longer between filings
 
Got a 404 rim sprocket, just after a chain

Dave how may cc is the saw? If she’s big enough you might try a 404/8 t rims. On my shorter bars with the 100cc saws I used the 8t rims. My 2100’s would pull dull chain through the wood by the end of the day.
 
I just counted one of my chains and it’s got 77 links. I mush prefer the .404 over the 3/8 as it is more forgiving if you hit a bit of dirty stuff whilst cutting. If I hit anything inside a hollow log with my 3/8 chain it was basically useless instantly but a .404 chain stays sharper for longer even if you do happen to hit some dirt.
 
Are you using 404 semi chisel? Or 404 full chisel? The semi chisel is gas more forgiving than the full chisel.
 
I think I'm having a similar issue swapping my original 3/8 to a .404; I have a 661 and purchased a 25" .404 bar and chain combo (they're both Stihl). I, of course, swapped the sprocket also. The original sprocket as you know was the 3/8-7T. My new one is an Oregon .404-7T. The .404 chain has 80 drive links. Problem is: when I install the .404 bar and chain, it can't be tensioned the way it supposed to be. I'll screw the tensioner screw all the way out yet the chain is nowhere near tight. It seems that if the tensioner hole in the bar were about an inch closer to the clutch drum or the chain had one (or two) les links, everything would be copasetic. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
 
If necessary, shorten the chain. The bar stud slot often limits how far the bar can travel but slotting it further has been done as well as drilling another tensioning hole but then the bar oil slot may not line up for oil to transfer to the bar. Easier to shorten the chain.
 
If necessary, shorten the chain. The bar stud slot often limits how far the bar can travel but slotting it further has been done as well as drilling another tensioning hole but then the bar oil slot may not line up for oil to transfer to the bar. Easier to shorten the chain.
I looked into shortening the chain but it appears I would only need to remove one link. That would leave me with two "teeth" facing the same direction instead of staggered..
 
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