3 strand friction saver.

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OutOnaLimb

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I was farting around today splicing a lanyard out of some 5/8 inch poly pro rope that I got at Home Depot. I screwed up on the length of the hip prusik, but was left with a piece of rope that was about 18 inches long that had spliced eyes at each end. Not wanting to let anything go to waste I was comtemplating the use of this little piece of rope that I had fabricated. I could stick a locking biner into each spliced eye and use my little abortion as a friction saver. Has any one ever seen or used a 3 strand spliced friction saver?

Kenn
 
Personally, I wouldn't use it. Any rope I could ever get from HD would at best be used as a tie down for something. My ex partner used to love to use some 1/2" 12? strand from HD. I can't even remember how many times that stuff broke.
 
this stuff is pretty sturdy and beefy. this whole concept is just something that I thought about when my lanyard experiment failed. I may take the knife to my old 3 strand bull rope to get a little better quality product.

Kenn
 
I'd find out what the rating was before trusting my life on it. We may be calling you outoffalimb. :D
 
Do you the maker?

What's the MBS of the rope?

What's the SWL?

When was it made?

What's the construction?

If you can't answer at least these questions, you're DUMB to trust your life with it.
 
I didnt say I was gonna trust my life to this thing, its just an idea I was playing around with. The tensile strength is 7,500 lbs and it is a poly pro construction. the buckingham friction savers are rated for 6,000lbs. The one disadvantage that I see right off the bat is that it would be a bear to install from the ground. Ya'll may be right this may be one of those bright ideas i will scrap before i even get it off the ground.

Kenn.
 
OK, just to please every one and bring bring my gizmo up to standards, I just spliced one out of a 36 inch piece of samson promaster 3 strand bull rope. Its 5/8 in. and is 8,500 lbs tensile.

Kenn
 
When I saw the first ring on ring false crotch many years ago I liked the concept but couldn't get around the cost. After thinking about it for a little while I got out a piece of half inch three strand and whipped one up. For the small end I spliced in a round galvanized steel thimble. For the big end I used a plastic thimble and spliced through the small end of a figure eight. The big end of the eight became the big eye on the false crotch. I still have that FC but I rarely use it. Generally only when I do a rec climb with a lot of ropes. This unit can be set from the ground like a webbing eye on eye FC. Strength is plenty good.

Tom
 
Kenn, don't use that polypro friction saver! Polypropylene breaks down in the sun very quickly. Is it the cheap yellow stuff?

Stick with that Samson one.

love
nick
 
No, its not the cheap Yellow boat rope, its the brown synthetic manalia lookin stuff. I tried it once as a friction saver prussic and didnt like it. Think I will try the real deal, and spend a few bucks.

Kenn
 
I used to climb on that "Manilene/Unmanila" stuff (1/2inch) I know that guys are cringing. It is stronger than Manila and was available. I gave it up when I discovered Arborplex. There are tons of reasons why it shouldn't be used as a lifeline but it served pretty well-the old Open Prussik/Tautline crept terribly until the rope got a little fuzzed.:)
 
Originally posted by LuvNik
Polypropylene breaks down in the sun very quickly. Is it the cheap yellow stuff?
Beware generalizations!

In beachcombing flotsam-jetsam marine cordage, a favorite
pastime, I'm impressed at the variety of the stuff--in
nature of material, & in the physical structure. In the
case of PP ropes, that material comes in a variety of
fiber shapes (round, ovalish, flattened, & filmlike).
PP is frequently used in combination with polyester;
some arborist ropes I believe have PP core fibers.
Marine cordage includes ropes with PP core fibers (of
yarns in laid rope), and ropes with PP mixed equally
with PS at the surface (e.g., strands comprising two
yarns each of PP & PS, alternately orders; braided
ropes with PS strands running one way, PS the other
--in a tight 8-strand rope, this gives a cross-section
rather square new, rectangular upon compression to a
drum, etc.--, and even PS/PP fibers adjacent in strands
of a more *hollow* 8-strand).

There is also a general material known as "co-polymer",
in which--usually--polys -propylene & -ethylene are
at the "molecular" level; there's at least one brand
that combines PP with polyester ("karat"). This is
advertised to significantly increase the strength
and abrasion resistance, and the material I've seen
is all in a flattish fiber, yielding a softish fuzz
upon abrasion. ("danline", "polysteel", "ultra blue")

Below is what the Cordage Institute's "Fiber Rope
Technical Information & Application Manual" has to
say about PP:
------------

Polyporopylene [PP] rope stabilization.

Ropes made of PP are suitable for many general-purpose
uses as long as the characteristics of the fiber are
recognized and appropriate precautions taken.
A major factor is that unstabilized PP is very liable
to destruction by light-heat-oxygen. This sensitivity
is due largely to the fact that each alternate carbon
atom in the polymer chain is "tertiary". This means
a carbon atom joined to three others, instead of only
two as in unbranched polyethylene. It has been found
that a hydrogen atom attached to such a tertiary carbon
is easily "pried off" by heat and light. Oxygen, so
often right at hand, replaces the hydrogen. Right here
is the beginning of the end of filament integrity.
Stablizer systems have been developed to protect
against UV; but the need is note everywhere reocognized
and ropes are offered [that] are not satisfactory.
Protection against UV sunlight cna be achieved either
by the use of chemical stabilization, most commonly
referred to as "hindered amine light stabilizer"
(HALS), or by pigmentation during the extrusion process.
Black is preferred, as it functions as the best absorber
or "quencher" of the energy from sunlight wave lengths.
Stabilizers do add to the cost, but merely spending
money does not ensure stability. The rope user must
[ensure] that the ropemaker is (1) aware of the problem,
(2) technically competent, and (3) conscientious.
Outdoor exposure is the matter of central interest.
Accelerated aging is ovens and in various fading and
weathering units correlate very poorly with outdoor
exposure and cannot be relied upon in judging rope
quality. This appears to be due to the fact that the
light intensities at different wave lengths--most
particularly in ultraviolet--do not correspond to
natural sunlight. Much effort has been devoted to
developing light sources and light filters, but
outdoor exposure remains the only completely reliable
method of testing.
The destructive effect of outdoor exposure varies
widely with latitude and with season, so location of
use should be taken into consideration.
============================================ *
 
OK, for every one out there, I am giving up on my little abortion of a friction saver. However, I know some parachute riggers here at Ft Carson, who will make a nice friction saver out of 1 inch tubular nylon webbing, stitched up with a double X box stitch. This new gizmo will be made out of the same webbing used in military parachute static lines. Every one happy now? Oh and it cost me a case of beer to get this thing stitched up.

Kenn
 
Dude, these are the Riggers that pack Parachutes for 10th Special Forces Group. You want some James Bond type stuff made up. Just give me a few Specs. I can get ya a cool thigh holster for a H&K USP .45 but your into that primitave weapons stuff.

Kenn
 
Cool! I was mostly kidding. I do look forward to seeing your friction saver. Plan on climbing for me for a day or 2 in Mid-September.:)
 
I will see what they can do to make a few extras. I look forward to climbing for ya, I wanna know how I rate against Brian. Oh by the way only 11 more to go.(inside joke) Should I just post all smilies on one of Butches obnoxious threads???

Kenn
 
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