$310 eBay Special...Uh-Oh.

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Nitroman

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So I buy this 394XP made in 1992 according to the serial number. Seller indicates it isn't a looker, but runs like crazy. Fine by me. Also, he stated "the muffler could be replaced", and "needs a new handguard". Yyyyyyyeeeeaaaahhhhh...ok.

This thing has been U-S-E-D. I didn't expect a really good condition, or even a good condition saw, but one that ran really good.

First, the muffler. Huh? What muffler? Oh that rotten bashed in can on the front of the engine. The can with the hole so big in the side the exhaust gas deflector would flop around causing the exhaust to melt off the handguard. That is the reason it needed a new handguard. Before I forget, the can was mushed in so the bolt stanchions were memories. The seller told me in an email he "honestly did not know the muffler was that bad". Uh-huh, and he owned it three years. Lastly, I had to use a Dremel tool to cut the muffler bracket off the front.

It hemorrhages bar oil like a stuck pig. I didn't know a saw could pump that much oil in so little time. Seriously.

It won't idle. The "T" (idle speed), screw has no effect on the idle.
It 4-cycles continuously. Adjustment of the "L" screw has no effect until the last 1/8th turn towards lean, which shuts the saw down. I will say it accelerates instantly.
High speed adjustment will not stop the 4-cycling. It started to lean out some, raising the engine speed, I did not wind it out, but did give a couple of quick blips, it did nothing.
So the engine is running pig-rich. The needles have no effect. Time to rebuild the carb.

Let's see:
Muffler: $70.00
Carb kit: $12.00
Air filter: $18.00
Fuel filter: $4.00
Handguard: $33.10
Pivot pin: $4.28
E-clip: $1.30
Spring cover: $6.52
Chip deflector: $8.08
Total: about $175.00 not including shipping, for the parts and saw. So I have $485 into the saw not including the shipping up here, $100.00 for $585.00. Crap.

I think I should just toss it into the Dumpster before my wife finds out, and/or I spend any more money. I will put in the carb kit, and if that doesn't allow the machine to run properly, I'll have to buy a new carb for $55.00.

For another $300 I coulda had a brand new saw. I swear this is the last time I try to save some dough. Well...at least until next time.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to baseline the carb after rebuild?

Thanks.
 
I have a running parts saw here that would take care of all those problems for you. Drop me a PM if you are interested.
 
For another $300 I coulda had a brand new saw. I swear this is the last time I try to save some dough. Well...at least until next time.

Reminds me of the old saying "The cheap pay twice". Not trying to rub it in...I feel for you...but that is how nearly all of us learn, the hard way. You might luck out and flip the saw as a rebuilder, or part it if there are any parts. The wrap handle and tank should bring some good change, and so should the piston/cylinder, the carb, the case, the plastics unless they are wasted, and so-on.

If you rebuild it...you better use the hell out of it. I would rather have a new saw for $300 more. Good luck!
 
Ok, an update.

I turned the oiler all the way in, and also found a micro-thin layer of wood dust/fiber that had accumulated on the face of the bar mount. It looked like aluminum until I took a sharp gasket scraper and shaved it off. Now it isn't slinging oil everywhere.

I downloaded the owners manual and memorized the section on adjusting the carburetor, I had done everything correctly. Using some Yamaha Ring-Free in the gas, I started the saw and let it run. I turned the High screw in which had the effect of making the L screw more effective, I was able to set the idle!!:biggrinbounce2: It accelerates nicely and idles smoothly. I sssslllloooowwwlllllyyyyy built rpm adjusting the High screw so that the engine 4-cycled just a tad at wide-open. WOW. First time I've heard a big-bore saw. Those screws were all adjusted to take advantage of the no-back-pressure-rotted-can that used to be on the front of the motor.

Now that it was running ok, I removed the starter, cleaned out all the crap, cleaned out the dust inside the air-jet, re-set the air gap on the coil and put my 36" bar on with the new chain.

Before I run the saw seriously, I need to get a brand new air filter. I ordered it and it's on its way, I just don't want to pull a load until I get that filter on and have the local dealership set the rpm with a tach.

Now I need to get to that stump to cut it in half!!:chainsawguy:

Hey Chopwood, that is really kewl of your offer; it's running now. Let me see how well it does when I get a load on it, that'll be the real test.
Thanks again.
 
Got that one too! :)

It doesn't discuss the cylinder coating though. :( I am wondering how thick it is and what it is made of: chrome or Nicasil. I am thinking of freshening up the top end with a new piston/rings for only $35.00.
 
I would skip the $35 piston/ring kit and freshen the top end with Husky rings...the piston and cylinder should be fine. Check the bottom of the piston skirt when you have it apart. If it is shiny and glazed, take a measurement of the skirt and compare with Husky specs, as the skirt is starting to wear.

What is the compression on the saw when it is warm?
 
That is an excellent question. I attempted that when it was cold, and pulled the left rear anti-vibe spring free of its mount. I had wedged my foot into the triggerguard, the bar under the front porch step, and pulled. Yikes! I am going to have a friend of mine come over to hold it down by the handlebar.

I did break down and buy a tach from Bailey's, and an exhaust deflector and spark arrestor screen from a 288 so I can get a little more punch out of the saw. As if I need it. :hmm3grin2orange:
 

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