346xp

[woodmeister]

Hi - any ideas where i can get the a service manual (not operator manual) for this saw? I'm also looking for the wrench to remove the clutch wheel. They changed it and I now need a special wrench.
Thanks

 

[SawTroll]

Here is one from 2003.

 

[woodmeister]

Thanks ... but the new ones don't have a nut any longer holding the clutch assembly. Now it must take some kind of spanner wrench or something.

 

[Griner Bros.]

Thanks ... but the new ones don't have a nut any longer holding the clutch assembly. Now it must take some kind of spanner wrench or something.

Good Day Woodmeister,
No special tool is needed to remove a Husky clutch. I use a 6-8" brass punch to knock the clutch off. (brass is soft so it leaves no burs). Note your clutch has a bevel cut in the clutch shoe for this. LEFT HAND thread, so tap (hard) CLOCKWISE to remove. I seldom need two hits. ( Any larger punch will work, the shoe is rather hard, just don't bur it up)
To install, screw to the left & tap SLIGHTLY to the left. You do no need this Wrenched tight as the saw rotation will keep it tight. Do not use the starter rope to hold the crank while tightening. Just a snug tap is all that is needed ......

 

[Lakeside53]

Good Day Woodmeister,
No special tool is needed to remove a Husky clutch. I use a 6-8" brass punch to knock the clutch off. (brass is soft so it leaves no burs). Note your clutch has a bevel cut in the clutch shoe for this. LEFT HAND thread, so tap (hard) CLOCKWISE to remove. I seldom need two hits. ( Any larger punch will work, the shoe is rather hard, just don't bur it up)
To install, screw to the left & tap SLIGHTLY to the left. You do no need this Wrenched tight as the saw rotation will keep it tight. Do not use the starter rope to hold the crank while tightening. Just a snug tap is all that is needed ......

Hmmm... I had a 357XP clutch that came off yesterday while starting... the owner hadn't tightened it.. and when the engine slows down faster then the clutch, it's off in a flash, so be careful... My choice - torque it to the published value. Don't reply on chain brake application to tighten the clutch.

 

[woodmeister]

I just want to make sure we are talking about the Husqvarna saw
thanks

 

[Griner Bros.]

I just want to make sure we are talking about the Husqvarna saw
thanks

Yes Husky,
I have used my 254 Husky since 1986 (400-500hrs) & changed rims 15+ times. I have never had a clutch come loose. It has always taken a good rap to remove at rim time .......
My PP346 has about 20 tanks thru it & 3 rims changes and always needs a good rap to remove ......

As Lakeside stated (at Start-Up) it came loose. Owner must not have tapped it snug at install .....

 

[HiOctane]

The part # for the clutch removal tool is 5025 416 02.

 

[spike60]

Yes Husky,
I have used my 254 Husky since 1986 (400-500hrs) & changed rims 15+ times. I have never had a clutch come loose. It has always taken a good rap to remove at rim time .......
My PP346 has about 20 tanks thru it & 3 rims changes and always needs a good rap to remove ......

As Lakeside stated (at Start-Up) it came loose. Owner must not have tapped it snug at install .....

Just want to say you got the best username on AS!

"It ain't nothin but the biggest river in the state"

"The Law? Where's the law Drew?"

"The machines are gonna fail"

Lot's of great lines from that one.

 

[Griner Bros.]

Thanks Spike60,
After reading AS (almost daily) for three years+ I thought it time to reg., so something to do with the woods & one of my favorite movies ....
Time to time I'll post some tidbits of info & stories about the movie. From Burt & John interviews some funny stuff ... Ned Beatty will not talk about it ...
I guess it still hurts !!
It just might bring a smile to your face when your in the woods taking a break & a particular phrase comes to mind ....

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks ... but the new ones don't have a nut any longer holding the clutch assembly. Now it must take some kind of spanner wrench or something.

Sorry, I didn't know that they have changed it. :bang:

I don't have access to a newer manual, 1999 and 2003 only, for these saws.

 

[belgian]

Hmmm... I had a 357XP clutch that came off yesterday while starting... the owner hadn't tightened it.. and when the engine slows down faster then the clutch, it's off in a flash, so be careful... My choice - torque it to the published value. Don't reply on chain brake application to tighten the clutch.

I had the same happening on a 372 xp clutch, while I relied on the autolocking effect. So my advice is also to torque it sufficiently.

 

[Lakeside53]

I had the same happening on a 372 xp clutch, while I relied on the autolocking effect. So my advice is also to torque it sufficiently.

For the older stihls (25 years +) that use the same system, we brazed an old 3 finger clutch tool to a socket. Much easier to remove stuck clutches and to get a consistent and correct torque. In a shop environment, even if just for liability, we have to torque down the clutches. Luckily most Stihls have a nut center so it's as easy as not doing it!

Anyone know what the correct torque value is for a Husky 357 and 372?

 

[belgian]

Honestly ....Nope. I tightened it the best I could. the germans call it with "fingerspitzengefühl", which means to your best estimate :stupid: .
Not professinal I guess, but had no problems afterwards.

 

[Mr.]

I know two guys that started a saw without the bar and chain. HAHAHAHA

Fred

 

[Lakeside53]

I know one that laughed

 

[HiOctane]

Anyone know what the correct torque value is for a Husky 357 and 372?[/QUOTE]
For the 357,its 20 Nm.Dont have for 372.

 

[SawTroll]

... Anyone know what the correct torque value is for a Husky 357 and 372?

There are workshop manuals for both models here, but maybe they are too old, also ? :angel:

 

[woodmeister]

Sorry, I didn't know that they have changed it. :bang:

I don't have access to a newer manual, 1999 and 2003 only, for these saws.

please don't beat yourself up! I appreciate your trying to help.
As I'm thanking everyone for your replays.
Thanks.