357XPG , i want more POWER :)

[ChainFinn]

This is the beaten 357 that i have. The piston is gone, but the cylinder might be ok to be used with new OEM piston, that i already ordered and i think ill get it home during next week.

The previous owner had made SOMETHING to the muffler i think.

Still... after seeing pretty interesting speech about 359 jugs/pistons here in AS, i could be interested in fitting them, instead of 357´s own c&p...but we´ll see about that, as the OEM c&p is VERY expensive compared to my wallet.

So, do you have any suggestions, of how to get more power out of this saw.


How do you guys attach the cylinder to lathe, when you want to cut off a bit of steel, to rise compression ?



Should i only widen the inlet/exhaust, instead of lowering intake also, and risign the exhaust ?
Pictures are appreciated, if you have heppened to shoot a few pics of your modded cylinders.


Muffler mod is piece of cake, but moddign the cylinders is VERY tempting after reading the epic stories here, about how much the works improved the performance of your saws.

I am always after 261/262xp but as long as i dont have one, ill just have to play with my other junk saws you know :jester:

 

[ChainFinn]

received a new OEM piston today along with few other pieces.

 

[ChainFinn]

....and fitted the piston without parer gasket, as it had gasketless squish of 0.7mm, so it was pretty safe to leave the gasket off. Made a noticable diffrence to compression !
Today ill try to weld the gutted muffler and put the thing running :msp_w00t:

 

[sunfish]

You need to find out why it toasted the piston, air leak, run lean, straight gas?

Porting, you want to widen the ports. No lowering, or raising anything without a degree wheel and more knowledge.

The 357 is a very good saw! And worth fixing. :msp_smile:

 

[gmax]

I had the same thing happen to my husky 359, the culprit was that flimsy plastic manifold clamp was leaking, I cut the tabs off the clamp and fitted a metal
clamp over it.

 

[ChainFinn]

I did grind the ehhaust and inlet yes but i did NOT lower, nor rise anything, since ive been reading all sorts of stories about port modding here at AS.

I fitted a new clamp yes, its plastic though, as i could not get a steel one, nor a part# for it.

Well, today, i placed new carb membrane and gaskets in, rised the needle valve lever just a hint, bolted the carb in, and its now only missing the muffler......welding gas bottle is always empty when its most needed , so i could not weld a thing today....

My laptop broke and i am with "new" now, and this machine seems to reject my camera when i try to unload pics from camera to pc and then to the web, but as i manage to upload pics/video, i will :msp_rolleyes:

 

[ChainFinn]

You need to find out why it toasted the piston, air leak, run lean, straight gas?

Porting, you want to widen the ports. No lowering, or raising anything without a degree wheel and more knowledge.

The 357 is a very good saw! And worth fixing. :msp_smile:

i THINK, the problem was that the carb that had the factory assembled limited adjustment screws, did NOT allow to riched the mix, to play along with modded muffler...which is now more modded, but i took off the stupid limiter caps so i can adjust the mixture as i want to.

Here, in our country, aint much folk that likes to mod saws, so its sometimes bit awkward to translate the foreign language speech, about how to mod this and that :msp_unsure:

Anyways, im tryin my best and if this saw blows again, i can only ease my pain by thinking that the saw didnt cost so much :wink2:

Offcourse if had the funds i´d rebuilt the whole thing with all new parts and all the goodies, but now its like this, sorry :msp_tongue:

 

[SawTroll]

Below are service bulletins related to intake clamp and carb.



SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP,
Partition wall and clamp for intake system,
2006-03

The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall.

The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.
The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.

Full replaceability prevails.
Introduced from serial number:
357XP 061100201
359 061100001
353 061100001
346XP 061100001

New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark
537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part
537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part

Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.





SB, 357 XP, 359, Introduction of new carburetor for better idling stability,
2008-10

To achieve better idling quality, a new carburetor has been introduced in the production. The new name of the carburetor is Zama C3-EL42, replacing Walbro HDA199A/B and HDA191A.

New part number for the carb is 505203001.

Also, requires a different flange, part number 503928502.

Introduced from serial numbers:
357XP 083800001
359 084500001

 

[ChainFinn]

hey thank you, i ordered the new clamp&intake NOW

 

[ChainFinn]

so,


while i am waiting for the new manifold&clamp to arrive, i couldnt resist to try the thing:hmm3grin2orange:


i attached the muffler that i got welded. Its gutted and has 19mm inner diameter tube, about an inch long stump of some pipe as an outlet.

I got the saw running yes, after some pulling of the starter. I had the L screw 1,5 turns open, and the H the same. The saw has nice rough idle between 2800 and 3000, and the L side seems to work somehow BUT when the carb turns to H side, it seems as it would run better when i turn the screw to thinner, lets say that when H is open 1 and 1/4 turns it runs a BIT better, but it sure seems to do it poorly and i really dotn want to ruin the piston.

I have bent the needle valves lever a bit up, about 0.5mm, so maybe the carb floods wayy too much when it starts to use H sides jet ?

I bent the needle valves rocker/lever, because the aftermarket membrane had VERY much shorter pin compared to OEM. If the OEM is 2.5mm then the aftermarket is barely half of it....:msp_thumbdn:

But, on idle i really get a smiley, a grin on my face already, as the saw seems to run now, and sounds quite bad :yoyo:, and i can only HOPE that the bit higher compression and muffler modding, along with wider ports may give it just aq bit of more pull....


BUT....i really have to figure out the weird carb things...i am pretty sure that the intake isnt leaking now, as i used steel clamp and silicone sealant....?

Oh well, when i get the new intake parts, and carb working, ill let you know.

All tips/suggestions/red cards :hmm3grin2orange: are wellcome.

 

[ChainFinn]

For numbers of hours, i adjusted the needle valve lever, the jets, changed from a plug to another...


NO RUN,NO GO !!!!!! :mad2:

:help:

Spark is good as can be, the gap is 0.3mm, membrane is new (aftermarket with weird superlow pin,though), carb is Walbro :msp_rolleyes:......

Can one carb act so bad that all i could get, was a two second run of engine, with needle valve lever at stock height....

Auto decomp replaced with brand new manual knob, the auto valves other end is plugged, so there is no air leak or anything.


New piston,gutted muffler with 19mm outlet, honed cylinder, yellow air filter, removed adjusment limiter caps to allow free adjustment of em....0.7mm squish.....


This thing will be used as landfill if i wont co-operate SOON.:angry2:

 

[Zombiechopper]

Is it a walbro 199 carb? They are known to be defective. There is a service bulletin that recommends replacing with a zama but that carb doesn't always run correctly with ported saws. there is a member on here called treemonkey that can fix the defective walbro carbs

 

[ChainFinn]

Would you or anyone have a link or something to that service bulletin ?


here are the carbs used in 357´s :

Heated 503 28 18-19 HDA 190A
Heated EU,EPA 503 28 18-20 HDA 191A
503 28 18-17 HDA 198A
EU,EPA 503 28 18-18 HDA 199A

Mine is heated, ill have to check out the type again, cant remember it right away.

Whats the main reason, the problem with these Walbros in 357´s ? ive been using and repairing walbros but never had any real bad ones you know.

The new Zama isnt cheap so i´d rather give the Walbro a shot, if i can repair it to work a BIT better.

The timings havent changed, i only widened the ports mildly.

 

[ChainFinn]

There are also different adjusting screws....hmm.....
H:
503 94 58-01
537 04 46-01 EPA,EU

L:
503 94 57-01
503 94 46-01 EPA,EU

 

[SawTroll]

Would you or anyone have a link or something to that service bulletin ?


.... .

It is a short one, the text is in the latter part of post #8 here.

 

[SawTroll]

Some reading about the HDA199 etc, here.

 

[Bluefish]

Dude, I can see that you are handy and I am jealous! That said, sell a few saws and get a 560XP. You want it, You deserve it, Get it!!! Russ

 

[ChainFinn]

Oh no, i am not selling a single saw :wink2:

But trades are ok always.


I think that i can get a 560xp/g for a Very decent price ( well....a decent compared to regular Finnish saw price tags), but i´ll see it at end of august . I am trying to get myself in school where they make men lumberjacks,loggers etc and i could need a new reliable saw there, instead of old tinkered rat-saws that i seem to have...speaking of em, todays catch was 242XPG and 55 huskie.

 

[ChainFinn]

Oh boy do they ask for hidious prices, for Zama replacement carbs in my area.....three digits

Anyone care to tell me, what is the accurate Zama model / # ? that i could use in my 357 ?

 

[ChainFinn]

While i am waiting for the new carbs, better intake & clamb, heres how she´s now....runner yes, but poorly, but i think ill get in tick tack better in few days as i have time for her.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/U5etpBIux-A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>