358.355140 poulan craftsman compression fix?

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358.355140haver

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I've got 2 358.355140 barn finds but they both seem to be pushing about 60psi, my buddies 50cc husky on the same setup measured 120 so I think the Guage is good.

Is the piston too scored to work? Both are getting identical readings and I would be surprised if they are both bad in the same way, surely I'm doing something wrong. Can I replace the piston rings? Idk they look OK to me though
 

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https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/605c04krvs-000247/craftsman-358355140-gas-chainsaw-parts

Poulan micro series 1800 or 2000 clone & same as Craftsman 1.8 or 2.0 saws. I wouldn’t be surprised if they both had the same cylinder bore pattern failure.

If I remember correctly, your 530012140 cylinder bore is bare aluminum & the 530010587 piston is chromed, so the bores will wear out if the air filter wasn’t maintained. Was a cost savings for them, but not for you. Your ring looks ok, but if the piston’s chrome is missing where it’s scored, it’s not reusable…

You’d need to inspect & measure the bore for out of round & then measure across the piston skirt to see what the clearance is, about 0.003-4” max.

Lots of used top end parts & even a new piston kit on fleaBay if you want to go that route.
 
Hotshot thanks for the reply!
I'll get some measurements and maybe put a new piston in just to see what happens.

The fun is in the repair journey not the end result lol I'm aware that repairing this may end up costing more than the saw is worth.
 
When a piston gets "scored," some of the aluminum it is comprised of transfers to the cylinder wall. This reduces the diameter of the piston. In a piston port engine (virtually all saws now) The skirt of the piston also functions as your intake "valve." The port is uncovered at the appropriate time, and fuel charge goes into the bottom end. If the clearance between the piston and the wall is large enough, some of the fuel charge will spit back through after the port is closed. Also, exessive piston to cylinder clearance causes piston slap, which is the piston rocking in the bore. Piston slap, in turn causes more wear on the skirt. In the end, the very thin piston skirt will break, and trash the entire top and bottom end.
Running a scored piston is never desirable. Sometimes you must for one reason or another. Saving money is not usually a good reason. This is false economy. Once that piston breaks, it will trash a whole bunch of parts, other than just the $35 piston.

With that said....... If the ring grooves are free of scoring, and it is not totally wasted, here is a basic test. Take the rings off the piston, and put it in the bore you intend to run it in. Make sure it is dry (no oil) for the test. Put your thumb over the spark plug hole, and turn the cylinder over. If the piston slowly drops out in maybe 5 or more seconds, it is probably tight enough. If it flops right out, it is way too loose. I have seen folks here say to sand down the scoring. This only increases tolerances. If you must use a scored one, just knock off the high spots, and then do the previously mentioned test.

Saw this user post in another thread, I'm going to try his thumb-hole test tonight when I get home.
I love tinkering and 2smokes are a whole new world to me and there's SO MUCH knowledge out there, this forum is a absolute blessing.
 
Good ‘rule of thumb’ piston test post, lol.

Your saw has a reed valve, one of the last ones to use it, plus you can’t ‘sand down a scored chromed plated piston’…post up some close in pics of your cylinder bore.
 
Drop test shows ehh about 1.5-2s before piston bottoms out.
Also piston is pretty scored
Also cylinder walls are pretty scored

Also while removing the piston I lost about 50% of the bearing needles

So i'm going parts shopping lol.
 

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Got a new piston 530069545 on the way, I'm going to harvest the needle bearing from the second donor saw and try getting it back together next weekend. If anyone has tips for getting the needles back in without losing them all I'm all ears, I was going to put a plastic plug into the top of the crank arm with the needle bearings in place, and displace that plug with the piston pin during assembly.
 
Yup, that cylinder won’t work.

Just use axle grease & divide the midget rollers up between rod & cap. Not a period of the assembly process that you want to mix with drinking many beers or other adult bevs.

Go to the ‘The Beg for Manuals’ sticky thread link below and ask Mr. Ray Benson if he’s got a copy of the Poulan micro service manual.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/unread
 

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