36" maple, first run!!!

[Hunt4lumber]

[photo=medium]3873[/photo][photo=medium]3872[/photo][album=medium]1702[/album]

 

[lone wolf]

Nice stuff there.

 

[Hunt4lumber]

I couldn't ask for any better results from my mill/ saw combo( even though I know it's maxing my saw out, it's a beast!)
My questions are-
When touching up chain in-between cuts, I am using a bar mounted file attachments and have it set for 10deg. Across at angle perpendicular to bar...
But chain packaging says it needs 10 deg. On an upward angle also?we filed it on 0 deg. By accident , didn't seem to slow it down tho on following cuts...?
Other question is its seems to be putting chain marks in it?
How tight should chain be?
Been trying not to push on saw, and have read all I could from previous posts, but I think each person's set up is unique.
Any thoughts guys?

 

[BobL]

Good work H4L!

My questions are-
When touching up chain in-between cuts, I am using a bar mounted file attachments and have it set for 10deg. Across at angle perpendicular to bar...
But chain packaging says it needs 10 deg. On an upward angle also?we filed it on 0 deg. By accident , didn't seem to slow it down tho on following cuts...?

It won't make much of a difference. I also file mine at zero for that angle.

Other question is its seems to be putting chain marks in it?
How tight should chain be?

Tightness of the chain won't affect the finish I have mine slightly tighter than for bucking. Milling heats the chain more than bucking so the chain expands a bit more after until the bar catches up.
Finish is usually operator skill dependent.

Some tips on improving the finish.

• When restarting a cut after putting wedges in, don't fang the mill back into the cut but ease the saw back into the cut gently.
• Don't seesaw the log sideways down the cut - keep the same angle as much as possible going down the log
• Make sure all the adjustments on the mill are tight.

Fanging and seesawing tilts the mill slightly and this allows the chain to bite preferential on one side and it is this that marks the log.
Also what type of chain do you run, full chisel will usually leave a scratchier finish compared to semi chisel.
One I start the cut I avoid stopping till the cut is complete. This means using a remote throttle with a throttle lock and setting up wedges and a hammer with easy reach. if the log is sloped and the saw self feeds I can take both hands off the mill and it keeps cutting (OK not as fast but it keeps cutting) and knock the wedges in. On a flat long log I keep pressure on the wrap handle with my knees/thigh and that leaves my hands free to put the wedges in.

Been trying not to push on saw, and have read all I could from previous posts, but I think each person's set up is unique.

Its not as unique as it seems

If the log is flat on the ground and you use standard chain cutter profiles some pushing will be needed. Either you will have to push it or pull it (e.g. with a winch) it still means you're applying a force.

To reduce the amount of pushing/pulling try these

• Slope the log. If the log is short it will be easy to put a fair slope on it - not so easy for longer logs. This effect on self feeding is dramatic
• Make the underside of the mill slipperier. Mine is clad with strips of HDPE screwed to the mill rails. The effect is small but worth having.
• Use log rails for every cut, the HDPE slips easier on steel log rails than on rough sawn wood. There are other good reasons to use log rails every time, like ability to remove any twist, prevents defects in the previous cut transferring to the next cut. The overall effect on reducing the amount of push is also small but worth doing.
• Most important is to increase the hook on the cutter. If you are hand filing this means using a size large file. If you are grinding tilt the grinder further over. If you are already using extra low rakers you might need to ease up on the rakers a bit.

If you want a cutter diagnosis take a close up square to side on photo of a cutter and I will take a look at it. Same goes for anyone else on here.

 

[Hunt4lumber]

Thanks Bill for insite.
My feeling was that the marks were coming from me see sawing mill as I was going.
I'm going to mill some more in am and try to not do as before...

 

[IyaMan]

Though I'm also new to milling, I've found that using rails on every cut (not just the first one) that extend about a foot beyond the ends makes entering and exiting the wood much easier, and it keeps the ends more sure to be flat. As BobL said, this also helps maintain consistency of the cuts and is smoother to slide on than the rough cut wood. Unfortunately I don't have steel rails (yet?) and I'm still cutting short and narrow logs (my saw is still a bit new), but I'm using a pair of 2x4 that I waxed on the top side (just rub them with an old candle) and it slides really smooth. (but note that some wax will transfer to the metal mill bars, so you might want to wipe off any residue wax if you ever run the mill without the waxed rails so that you don't re-transfer the wax onto your freshly cut boards. But if you intend to plane them later, then it probably wouldn't matter.)

 

[BobL]

. . . . just rub them with an old candle) and it slides really smooth. (but note that some wax will transfer to the metal mill bars, so you might want to wipe off any residue wax if you ever run the mill without the waxed rails so that you don't re-transfer the wax onto your freshly cut boards. But if you intend to plane them later, then it probably wouldn't matter.)

Good idea. Old sawmills used to smear Tallow on sliders to cut and sort timber. Unless a great lump of it sits on the wood for a long time it doesn't penetrate that far into the wood.

 

[IyaMan]

I mentioned candle wax, but if you have terrazzo wax or furniture wax it'll be even better (but maybe avoid liquid flood wax). I use various waxes for things I do, and it can depend on the conditions (humidity, wear/tear, wood grain, temperature). If your 2x4 rails are a pine with lots of resin (look at any knots to see if it seeps out) then sometimes candle wax can actually gum up the wood instead of making it slippery.

 

[amberg]

Very nice indeed.