40 year old Homelite EZ automatic went erratic.

[Okie]

Saw was running good when turned off. 2 days later went to start it and when it started it would not take high accelerate.
After awhile it would idle then as it warmed I could finally hold down the throttle and it sounded kinda like a John Deere tractor, sputtering and almost die then catch and sputter, I could get off trigger and it would idle ok. Finally caught and ran ok but every time I killed it and re-started it would sputter for awhile before reving. When it finally gets to where it starts taking throttle I can hold down the throttle and it revs up and down at fast pace. Really sound like loss of ignition fire or maybe weak fire when sputtering at high rpms.

I carefully tried the H jet and no good. I installed new spark plug and a carb kit and still same. I did a vac/pres test of crankcase and all ok even when turning the crank. The fuel filter and fuel line is in good shape I dumped the tank gas and tried fresh gas and still same.
I pulled the flywheel and the cover to the Wico points and the points box was loaded up with heavy wet oil and gunk, very dirty area. The felt seals on the points cover were oil soaked.
I'm currently looking for a set of wico points and condenser and if that don't make it fly, I'll check the magneto coil.

I see that some vendors are offering a electronic chip ignition for around $27 but I have had bad experiences with electronic add on to other saws, timing not correct and no long term reliability.

40 years seems to be a good run on points and condenser, so why change from a good thing to experimental?

Anyone did the EZ electronic ign mod with good or bad results?
Any comments?

 

[happysaws]

I would clean and re-gap the points before replacing them with an electronic ignition module, if the cover was covered with oil, the points are probably oil soaked too.

I've worked on many Homelite EZ Auto chainsaws, most of them have this problem. 99% of the time the only thing they need other than a carb kit is a good cleaning and filing/shining of the points.
Just my $0.02.[emoji3]


P.S., I've had saws with aftermarket electronic ignition modules, sometimes they will run WAY better than with points, sometimes they don't run at all or are hard to start.

 

[HarleyT]

Where did the oil come from?

 

[TBS]

I'd bet it may need crank seals.

 

[KYsawman]

Clean and gap the points, and check the oil line that runs above the points, it is rubber and can leak bar oil down onto the mag assy. I have seen this on both of my super EZ's.

 

[Okie]

I'd bet it may need crank seals.

I would have bet that at least one of the seals would leak also so I built the block offs and was really surprised when it holds both pressure and vacuum as the crank is rotated AND because it idled good and the low idle jet was adjusting ok it made sense, because the saws I've seen in past had erratic low idle issue when a crank seal is bad. I knew if I went elsewhere looking that I would always suspect the crank seals if it ever stumbled again if I did not check them now and it would be suggested on this forum that I should do the test.
I'll clean the points and see if the running symptoms change and look at the oil line above the points. I have a real good set of points burnishing tools but I've never ever got any long term reliability after fooling around with OLD ignition points or electrical relay points.

Anyone know of a good source for reasonably priced wico points and condenser and Homelite EZ parts that are not aftermarket China clone stuff other than flea bay?

 

[KYsawman]

I have had good luck finding NOS sets on eBay or Leon's chainsaw parts, he specializes in Homelite own parts. You could swap to blue solid state but they are problematic too.

 

[Little Al]

I don't know if Joyce ( Chainsaw Lady) is still a member but her family were "Homie" dealers & she still seems to have NOS parts from old model saws.If you have no joy with the points Iv'e had good results in the past using a Nova 2 chip as points/condenser replacements Timing is per points, this was on XL Mini but to all intents it's the same as EZ auto

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I would have bet that at least one of the seals would leak also so I built the block offs and was really surprised when it holds both pressure and vacuum as the crank is rotated AND because it idled good and the low idle jet was adjusting ok it made sense, because the saws I've seen in past had erratic low idle issue when a crank seal is bad. I knew if I went elsewhere looking that I would always suspect the crank seals if it ever stumbled again if I did not check them now and it would be suggested on this forum that I should do the test.
I'll clean the points and see if the running symptoms change and look at the oil line above the points. I have a real good set of points burnishing tools but I've never ever got any long term reliability after fooling around with OLD ignition points or electrical relay points.

Anyone know of a good source for reasonably priced wico points and condenser and Homelite EZ parts that are not aftermarket China clone stuff other than flea bay?

Have a part number? I can look at the shop. The Homelite parts (several large shelf units) are arranged by part #.

 

[chainsawlady]

Saw was running good when turned off. 2 days later went to start it and when it started it would not take high accelerate.
After awhile it would idle then as it warmed I could finally hold down the throttle and it sounded kinda like a John Deere tractor, sputtering and almost die then catch and sputter, I could get off trigger and it would idle ok. Finally caught and ran ok but every time I killed it and re-started it would sputter for awhile before reving. When it finally gets to where it starts taking throttle I can hold down the throttle and it revs up and down at fast pace. Really sound like loss of ignition fire or maybe weak fire when sputtering at high rpms.

I carefully tried the H jet and no good. I installed new spark plug and a carb kit and still same. I did a vac/pres test of crankcase and all ok even when turning the crank. The fuel filter and fuel line is in good shape I dumped the tank gas and tried fresh gas and still same.
I pulled the flywheel and the cover to the Wico points and the points box was loaded up with heavy wet oil and gunk, very dirty area. The felt seals on the points cover were oil soaked.
I'm currently looking for a set of wico points and condenser and if that don't make it fly, I'll check the magneto coil.

I see that some vendors are offering a electronic chip ignition for around $27 but I have had bad experiences with electronic add on to other saws, timing not correct and no long term reliability.

40 years seems to be a good run on points and condenser, so why change from a good thing to experimental?

Anyone did the EZ electronic ign mod with good or bad results?
Any comments?

I have Wico and Phelon points and condensers for the Homelite Super Ez chain saws.
chainsawlady

 

[Okie]

I decided to get new points and condenser so as I would not have to put it all back together still using the 40+ year old parts then have to take it back apart and I have other saws I can use in the meantime.. The points and condenser was very reasonable priced. Noticed that they are kinda pround of the magneto's. Maybe I won't need it.
The oil line is in good shape. (lots of oil in and around the points box)??????

I had already ordered the OEM Homelite part numbers from flea bay before I seen Chainsaw lady's email. I'll place her as a vendor in my Homelite folder for next time. I sent a email to Leons few days ago and never did hear a peep reply. I did download a freebie Homelite EZ IPL from Leon's site. Seen he has several other Homelite IPL's.

I have a New Nova chip, I dug it out and looked at it and throwed it back in the parts bin, it's not a user friendly install on this saw because the coil will have to be lifted just to see the wire from the points for cutting and splicing and all that stuff looks very brittle. and like I said it's been a bad experience in trying to get them NOVA chips to operate with any good results on other saws. I some not long ago and some of them wanted pos ground, some neg ground, timing off, and if one would run it failed before very long. (this kinda indicated to me that inferior parts were being used for the chips, expecially when same part numbers want neg ground and pos ground and no two produce same timeng.

 

[Little Al]

I have a New Nova chip, I dug it out and looked at it and throwed it back in the parts bin, it's not a user friendly install on this saw because the coil will have to be lifted just to see the wire from the points for cutting and splicing and all that stuff looks very brittle. and like I said it's been a bad experience in trying to get them NOVA chips to operate with any good results on other saws. I some not long ago and some of them wanted pos ground, some neg ground, timing off, and if one would run it failed before very long. (this kinda indicated to me that inferior parts were being used for the chips, expecially when same part numbers want neg ground and pos ground and no two produce same timeng.[/QUOTE]

Is the chiip you have actually a Nova or Nova 2 or one of the other brands available I have fitted around half dozen Nova's & had no problems with failing or timing being out. Iv'e had problems with the ones with Chevron ribbing on the casing failling & not producing the spark constantly at the correct timing The only saws that I've heard of that require +earth are some models of Stihl & incorrect timing on some Mac's Having said that the ones I fitted chips to the oem points etc were NLA

 

[HarleyT]

I have had good luck with the Oregon module, and the polarity is easily reversed. The ezs had 2 different electronic coils, and 2 different flywheels. The bad part is that both flywheels had the same part number, and you had no idea which one was which, until you got it in your hands, and compared them with a magnet.

 

[Little Al]

I have had good luck with the Oregon module, and the polarity is easily reversed. The ezs had 2 different electronic coils, and 2 different flywheels. The bad part is that both flywheels had the same part number, and you had no idea which one was which, until you got it in your hands, and compared them with a magnet.

I have always understood that it was if the saw was fitted with Wico or Phelon ignition systems & it was a NO NO as to mix & match as I' ve said before I've replaced electronic coils with a points coil & nova chip & not had any problems either timing or failure of ignition system; I cannot remember which of the 2 brands of coil I fitted as it some years back & on visiting the guy I sold 1 of the saws to "gotta" be 3 years or more back, a week or so ago he was cutting some wood in his yard for his shop stove & all he's done is replace the chain, the saw is a Homelite XL Mini auto oiler, EZ with a different jacket

 

[Okie]

I have a New Nova chip, I dug it out and looked at it and throwed it back in the parts bin, it's not a user friendly install on this saw because the coil will have to be lifted just to see the wire from the points for cutting and splicing and all that stuff looks very brittle. and like I said it's been a bad experience in trying to get them NOVA chips to operate with any good results on other saws. I some not long ago and some of them wanted pos ground, some neg ground, timing off, and if one would run it failed before very long. (this kinda indicated to me that inferior parts were being used for the chips, expecially when same part numbers want neg ground and pos ground and no two produce same timeng.

Is the chiip you have actually a Nova or Nova 2 or one of the other brands available I have fitted around half dozen Nova's & had no problems with failing or timing being out. Iv'e had problems with the ones with Chevron ribbing on the casing failling & not producing the spark constantly at the correct timing The only saws that I've heard of that require +earth are some models of Stihl & incorrect timing on some Mac's Having said that the ones I fitted chips to the oem points etc were NLA[/QUOTE]

The two terminal type NOVA 2 that allows for reversing the polarity. Waste of time a left and severe bad taste in my mouth. Once that happens I don't go back for seconds.

 

[Little Al]

Is the chiip you have actually a Nova or Nova 2 or one of the other brands available I have fitted around half dozen Nova's & had no problems with failing or timing being out. Iv'e had problems with the ones with Chevron ribbing on the casing failling & not producing the spark constantly at the correct timing The only saws that I've heard of that require +earth are some models of Stihl & incorrect timing on some Mac's Having said that the ones I fitted chips to the oem points etc were NLA

The two terminal type NOVA 2 that allows for reversing the polarity. Waste of time a left and severe bad taste in my mouth. Once that happens I don't go back for seconds.[/QUOTE]
All brands except the metal cased single spade terminal are reverse polarity capable, & that can be if you insulate the mounting & connect case to + the chip only contains the same gizmo's as the extra lump on an electronic coil

 

[Okie]

I have had good luck with the Oregon module, and the polarity is easily reversed. The ezs had 2 different electronic coils, and 2 different flywheels. The bad part is that both flywheels had the same part number, and you had no idea which one was which, until you got it in your hands, and compared them with a magnet.

Are you saying some EZ came out with electronic ignition coils or are you indicating reference too points type magneto coils?
I do see the EZ's had a Wico or Phelon ignition and the parts are not interchangeable and the IPL indicates in the notes below a certain serial number the coil and core are different.. This one happens to be the Wico type.

I've already noticed that I cannot trust the IPL for correct part numbers for the ign system for this saw by going by the serial number.
I also noticed in my IPL that the reference to the saws below sn#91600198 use different ign part numbers, BUT that does not hold water for this saw. The ign part numbers they list going by serial number is wrong going. For example this saw going by the IPL lists a 65208 which is wrong one.
This saw uses the 68711 condenser.

Summary: I'm going to have to keep a heads up and make sure I'm buying and installing the correct ign parts.

I've seen the same type mexed up stuff on old Fords, I have a 1976 Ford F-100 but several of the parts are 1975 year model. Ford used left over 1975 parts and put and 76 grill and title on this vec.

 

[Okie]

The two terminal type NOVA 2 (part number 31-8786) that allows for reversing the polarity. Waste of time and left and severe bad taste in my mouth. Once that happens I don't go back for seconds.

All brands except the metal cased single spade terminal are reverse polarity capable, & that can be if you insulate the mounting & connect case to + the chip only contains the same gizmo's as the extra lump on an electronic coil[/QUOTE]

Little Al:
The ones I was attempting to get a good run in chainsaws were the NOVA 2 part number on the box is 31-8786, and I do see a made in Tiawan in very small letters on the box and when I contacted the vendor about the failures they refunded my money and said to not bother with returns and they also indicated they had several complaints and are going to stop selling the chips due to complaints from customers.

 

[Little Al]

All brands except the metal cased single spade terminal are reverse polarity capable, & that can be if you insulate the mounting & connect case to + the chip only contains the same gizmo's as the extra lump on an electronic coil

Little Al:
The ones I was attempting to get a good run in chainsaws were the NOVA 2 part number on the box is 31-8786, and I do see a made in Tiawan in very small letters on the box and when I contacted the vendor about the failures they refunded my money and said to not bother with returns and they also indicated they had several complaints and are going to stop selling the chips due to complaints from customers.[/QUOTE]

Sorry to hear that. I have used the Nova & the smaller Nova 2 ( more than half a dozen of the 2 types & not had any problems either failure or timing wise the only info I gleaned from the rep at a trade show was to mount the metal side to the heat source the other generic makes more so the ones with chevron finning i had a couple or so failures this was before i bought Nova's Your & my experiences differ yours might have been faulty batch or fake I can only say as I find Iv'e had more crappy failures with electronic coils both OEM & AM than with the chips, but can understand your disappointment/anger at the let down seems with electronic gismo's they either quickly fail or don't work from new or they seem to last for ever bit like TV's some years back. PS just went out to the shop & looked at the remaining 2 I have left they came in a clear plastic bag not a box & the pt# is 48_ 62674 & cannot see made in Taiwan any where on chip or packet, looking on Ebay I see Randy'Engine Repairs are advertising the chevron finned chip as Nova ( it isn't )& Custom Chainsaw Parts are listing chips with the same pt#as your one as Stihl.Seems a bit of a mine field I got mine at a trade fair from acompany selling ignition parts for saws garden tractors etc Forgive but 2stoke bike & engine spark production is a bit of a subject for me.

 

[Okie]

Little AL
You say:
yours might have been faulty batch or fake I can only say as I find Iv'e had more crappy failures with electronic coils both OEM & AM than with the chips, but can understand your disappointment/anger at the let down seems with electronic gismo's they either quickly fail or don't work from new or they seem to last for ever bit like TV's some years back.


That cloning and FAKE is also a major part of the problem now days for all sorts of things and more so in electronic parts. pay more $$'s for what is suppose to be the real thing and get a cheap knockoff clone from Tiawan or China that has been re-boxed by the seller. I've had real good luck with cheap clone knockoff Briggs small engine magnetos at around $15 vs the $70 Napa ones. Guy has to keep a heads up from all sides now days, especially from the rear.

Donald Trump says he is going to help us with this imported clone stuff.
About time someone tried. Prices on tires/batteries and several items are out of sight now days for us peons due to political BS.