4x9 firebrick

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nwmo_aggie

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Anyone know of a source for the 4x9 firebrick for a Drolet Myriad stove? Can't seem to find any that fit that description online or in any local store, I found some that are 4.5", but trying to avoid the hassle of cutting them all.
 
There are two kinds, the cheap light inexpensive ones and the heavier ones that insulate much better.
Actually, as far as insulation properties go, the lighter ones are better for that (think styrofoam vs steel) the heavier ones are a lil more durable though. But there is a reason they use the light ones...keep the firebox temp up, clean burn.
I agree, cut 'em, it's easy. You can buy a whole box of the 4.5" x 9" at TSC, Menards, wherever, for ~$10 on sale, then you will have 'em in the future if you need more
 
Actually, as far as insulation properties go, the lighter ones are better for that (think styrofoam vs steel) the heavier ones are a lil more durable though. But there is a reason they use the light ones...keep the firebox temp up, clean burn.
I agree, cut 'em, it's easy. You can buy a whole box of the 4.5" x 9" at TSC, Menards, wherever, for ~$10 on sale, then you will have 'em in the future if you need more
They use the light ones cause they're cheaper.
 
Lighter pumice firebrick actually hold up much better.yes they are slighter cheaper but insulate just as good . They give and
You can bang wood off them unlike the brittle crack probe heavy ones ..Sounds crazy but it's true I've seen it myself .as far as a heat properties go you'd never notice a real world difference between them
 
There are two kinds, the cheap light inexpensive ones and the heavier ones that insulate much better.
They use the light ones cause they're cheaper.
To be clear, we're talkin' about refractory brick (often called fire brick) used to line the fireboxes of wood-fired appliances... not traditional fire brick used for building fireplaces and such.

Which refractory brick is appropriate depends on the appliance... both types insulate (or, more correctly, protect) the steel from heat damage. The lighter, more porous brick insulates better (transfer heat at a slower rate) and are used in many new-fangled, EPA certified wood stoves because they keep more heat in the firebox, promoting secondary combustion sooner, cleaner burns, etc. The heavier, denser, less porous brick transfers more heat at a faster rate to the steel... they don't "insulate" as well, but they still do a fine job protecting the steel. You'll find them more often in older, non-secondary combustion fireboxes such as traditional furnaces and stoves. Of course there's exceptions, depending on design... they don't use the lighter ones because they're cheaper, the brick used in a firebox is part of the design specifications.

Technically, you should replace the brick with the same type used by the manufacturer to maintain the same performance level.
But... sometimes a fella' does what a fella' needs to do (shrug)
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The lighter, more porous brick insulates better (transfer heat at a slower rate) and are used in many new-fangled, EPA certified wood stoves because they keep more heat in the firebox, promoting secondary combustion sooner, cleaner burns, etc.
Are you converting on us spidey!? ;) :dancing: :hi:
 
Actually the cheaper stoves have the lighter while the upper end stoves have the heavier ones, this was shown to me while I was shopping for my stove.
 
Actually the cheaper stoves have the lighter while the upper end stoves have the heavier ones, this was shown to me while I was shopping for my stove.
I'm curious...
Do you consider the Pacific Energy line "cheaper" or "upper end" stoves?? Because they come with the lighter, more porous (pumice) bricks... and the replacement bricks ain't anything close to "cheap" ($142.50, although you can find pumice bricks for around $5.00 each on-line). In fact, PE specifically says not to use the heavier, more dense bricks because they will effect performance... the lighter pumice bricks insulate better, keeping more heat in the box.
And do you consider the Vogelzang line "cheaper" or "upper end" stoves?? Because they come with the heavier, more dense bricks... and you can buy a box of 6 at Menards for $14.95 (sometimes on sale for $11.99).
What about the DAKA furnaces?? "Cheaper" or "upper end"?? They come with the heavier, more dense bricks.
US Stove?? "Cheaper" or "upper end"?? They come with the heavier, more dense bricks... and I can buy a box of 6 at our local fleet store for $16.14 today.
What about the QuadraFire line?? "Cheaper" or "upper end"?? (The Adventure II retails for a whopping $3500.00) And QuadraFire also specifies the lighter, more porous (pumice) bricks.

I believe you were given what we in the sales biz call a "sell job" when you were shopping.
And if you start checking around you'll find the lighter, more porous (pumice) bricks are typically more expensive. You ain't gonna' buy 6 of 'em for fifteen bucks like the harder, heavier, more dense brick... likely closer to twice that much.
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I
I'm curious...
Do you consider the Pacific Energy line "cheaper" or "upper end" stoves?? Because they come with the lighter, more porous (pumice) bricks... and the replacement bricks ain't anything close to "cheap" ($142.50, although you can find pumice bricks for around $5.00 each on-line). In fact, PE specifically says not to use the heavier, more dense bricks because they will effect performance... the lighter pumice bricks insulate better, keeping more heat in the box.
And do you consider the Vogelzang line "cheaper" or "upper end" stoves?? Because they come with the heavier, more dense bricks... and you can buy a box of 6 at Menards for $14.95 (sometimes on sale for $11.99).
What about the DAKA furnaces?? "Cheaper" or "upper end"?? They come with the heavier, more dense bricks.
US Stove?? "Cheaper" or "upper end"?? They come with the heavier, more dense bricks... and I can buy a box of 6 at our local fleet store for $16.14 today.
What about the QuadraFire line?? "Cheaper" or "upper end"?? (The Adventure II retails for a whopping $3500.00) And QuadraFire also specifies the lighter, more porous (pumice) bricks.

I believe you were given what we in the sales biz call a "sell job" when you were shopping.
And if you start checking around you'll find the lighter, more porous (pumice) bricks are typically more expensive. You ain't gonna' buy 6 of 'em for fifteen bucks like the harder, heavier, more dense brick... likely closer to twice that much.
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believe the heavier ones were natural stone and as far as sales pitch, initially thought I needed two stoves but the salesman/owner came to my house and told me that two would be a waste and that my home would be fine with one stove.
 
believe the heavier ones were natural stone...
Naw... they're a refractory ceramic... they're made from an aluminum oxide and silica fire clay.
The lighter, more porous bricks are made from the same basic clay with pumice added to increase air "bubbles" and insulating properties... they are less heat conductive, as brenndatomu said, "think styrofoam vs steel."
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