55 Rancher rim

[Newfie]

I have a chance to pick up a barely used 55R for cheap. It's set up with a 3/8 rim right now and wanted to know if switching it to .325 would be as simple as a different rim or would I need to replace the whole clutch cup and spline assembly? Thanks for the input.

 

[sedanman]

Just swap the rim. Be aware that if it has the large spline, the only .325 rim avalable is a 9 tooth.

 

[lucky]

Ummm, why switch to .325? You can barely see those teeth.

Lucky

 

[NeTree]

55R is the small spline. I'd stick with the 3/8" though. If ya ever need parts, lemme know. I got one here with a bad jug/piston, but everything else is A-ok.

 

[hotrodusa]

Yep, the husky 55 has the small spline and its just a matter of swaping the rim sprocket, costs under 5.00

You'll need a new bar and chain in .325

The husky model 55 doesnt have enough power to run a 3/8" chain, you will cut faster with the .325 chain, and try to stick with a 18" or smaller bar. I have many cutting hours on the 55, and ran them with both 3/8" and .325 chain, the .325 is a faster cut.
The 55 is an economy saw that was not ment for the bigger chain.

when you get a saw with 3.9hp or greater the 3/8" chain starts to work in your favor.

 

[NeTree]

I run 3/8" on all of mine, with 20" bars; never had a problem with power.

 

[glens]

Never had a problem with power; except for that jug and piston, right Erik?  hahahaha!

 

[jokers]

Originally posted by glens
Never had a problem with power; except for that jug and piston, right Erik?  hahahaha!

Is there something more that we should know?

Russ

 

[NeTree]

The jug & piston had nothing to do with the chain.

I lost a wrist-pin clip.

 

[glens]

I'd reasoned it had nothing to do with chain driver pitch, but it just struck me as funny at the moment. (not that Erik has a wasted saw; rather the combination of statements)  Sorry for the off-topicness.

Glen

 

[NeTree]

Oh I knew what you were gettin' at!

It's still got plenty of power, but it sure takes awhile to get thru a log...

 

[Newfie]

Why the pitch switch...

Well, the saw currently has .058 w/ an 18" bar. All of my 3/8 is .050 and 20" loops and up. I have a 20" bar w/ some 33LG that will fit the saw and a mess of 95vp and bars that run with my 346. I'd like to run the 55 with a 16" bar. So a I figured it might be easier (and less costly) to switch the pitch. Plus, I really like the way my 95vp works limbing and bucking small firewood.

Plus, $200 bucks for a saw that has only cut 2 trees seems like a good deal, and I know and trust the owner so he's not trying to screw me with a bad saw.

So is it the big spline or the small spline?

I tried doing some investigating on my own at Husky, Oregon and here, but just ended up confused.

Thanks for the help.

 

[NeTree]

Small spline.

Trust me on that.

 

[glens]

Compare what you got with the images on page two at <a href="http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/sprockets/RimSproxFB0601.pdf">RimSproxFB0601.pdf</a>.&nbsp; If they don't print or appear life-size for you, then scale them up or down until the outside diameter matches.&nbsp; I'll venture a guess it's "small 7" not to mention I trust Erik on it.&nbsp; While you're there, fetch <a href="http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/cross_ref_guides/OCS_113_115.pdf">OCS_113_115.pdf</a> (Sprocket Drive System Cross Reference).

If you've already done all that and still have the question (legitimately possible using only Oregon's site) at least the links are here for others' reference.

Glen

 

[Newfie]

Thanks. Actually I meant to look at both of those items and something distracted me and I completely forgot. I'll do that now. I trust Erik too. (I'm not sure why )