I peeled back the deflector and opened the baffle to about 80% of the port outlet. I had planned to weld the deflector back down, but I didn't like the way it looked. The finished muffler has a wide deflecor from @Red97 and some heat paint. Original spark arrestor slides right in.
There's two ways to lower the jug on these.
You can do a standard base cut, but the flange under the transfers is only so thick.
Or you can delete the gasket and do a minimal base cut. It's a beefy gasket.
I am personally fond of gaskets. I even made a super thin one out of a beer can, but in the end decided on a full base cut and kept the OEM gasket.
I took 0.038" off the base. Stock squish was 0.024", so after base cut I'm at -0.014". This photo was taken after some rough-in on the lowers.
It seems pretty common these days for porters to cut the squish band on the lathe. I find getting the jug zeroed in very tedious, so I often cut the squish with a manual boring bar and sanding mandrel.
I made these out of steel, but I prefer aluminum.
Truth be told, it's a lot of work to do it this way. The jug goes off and on the saw many times. I measure squish many times. You have to sand the squish band smooth, which is slow. And the boring bar has to be set just right. If the diameter is slightly too small a shelf will develop. If it's too large it can gouge the cylinder wall plating.
I took the squish back up to 0.021". That's 0.035" out of the band. I like a little wider squish with a smaller combustion dome.