84 K10 Engine Build

[Marshy]

So my weekend truck and firewood hauler is a '84 K10 and it had a small he's gasket leak at the end of last year. Long story short I thought I would take on rebuilding the engine. First I thought I would just freshen up the heads and replace the gaskets. That turned into changing cams which snow balled into pullin the entire engine deglazing the cylinders new bearings yada yada yada. Well I'm currently breaking down the rotating assembly so the block and crank can go to the machinist take a bath and get mic'ed up and the first couple of rod end bearings that came out look like this.

I'd say it was a good choice to tear into this bottom end. However, every action has an equal and opposite reaction and now I think there's a good chance the machinist is going to want to clean up the crank journals and possibly bore the block. So now I'm at a decision point, put the money and work into this old mid 70's flat tappet cam block or go yank a roller block at the junk yard to put the money into. Since I'm going to use vortec heads in my build I think now is a perfect time to make the move and build a roller motor.

 

[JustJeff]

Nice truck! I've always liked that body style. Nothing wrong with the flat tappets, the old one ran for 30 years and you didn't pull it apart for cam wear. You can buy roller lifters for that block too. What ever you decide, it's still a sweet ride!

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

I too have always been fond of that body style. Its hard for me once I get into a project to stop
I go in with the idea I'm going to do, 1 then 2 then 3 but then I see how easy it is to just go ahead and do 4 and 5 and 6.
The next thing you know, well...I think you have the idea. I wish you well on the project.

 

[Marshy]

Thanks guys. I'd actually prefer to stay with a flat tappet cam but if I'm going to dump money into boring a block I'm going to dump it into a factory roller block as apposed to a flat tappet motor. Reason being is because I can get a vortec junk yard short block for $80 and bore it 30 over and can use the factory roller lifters. I can't get retrofit rollers for $80 and I'd be lookin at bearings and boring the old block anyways.

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Thanks guys. I'd actually prefer to stay with a flat tappet cam but if I'm going to dump money into boring a block I'm going to dump it into a factory roller block as apposed to a flat tappet motor. Reason being is because I can get a vortec junk yard short block for $80 and bore it 30 over and can use the factory roller lifters. I can't get retrofit rollers for $80 and I'd be lookin at bearings and boring the old block anyways.

Sounds reasonable. Keep us posted on the progress.

 

[Sty57]

The vortec's are nice I built a 383 years ago for my blazer. If you have to do machine work you might be better off just getting a whole new rotating assy.

 

[Marshy]

Yanked a 5.7L 880 block from a 99 chevy 3500 van yesterday. It was a vortec with 906 heads. Got the whole shortblock for $120. It was a sales/service van for a local farm tractor dealer. Unknown miles but it was clean and I figured it had regular maintenance. Even though it said no start on the side of the van I could tell it came in because front end damage. And my assumptions about the maintenance were good because the valve train area was clean and the bores have no noticeable wear.

I'll lose the mechanical fuel pump option an have to install an electrical is the only down side. The benefit out weigh that though because this should be a 4 bolt and has full provisions for roller cam. I also read these heavy duty application vortec 880 engines came with powdered metal rods, a forged crank an a wind age tray that bolts to the mains. There's also some rumor that the main caps are ductile iron too.

So it seams possible that I've got the making for a pretty stout motor. I'll soon have it apart to check the bearings and look at the crank. My plan is to bore it 30 over an use the pistons (with new rings) out of the engine that came out of the truck. I'll likely have him deck the block too. I called Lunati to discuss cam options and the 3 recommended did not exceed 0.472 valve lift. I can probably get enough room to accommodate that lift by going with some beehive springs and not have to machine the guides. I think that's what I will do and have him drill and tap for guide plates so I can switch to roller tip rockers later. More to follow later.

 

[Rookie1]

If you stay with a flat tappet cam research what oil to use. The epa has pretty much cut out zinc in oil. Zinc helped keep the lobes and lifters happy.

 

[Marshy]

If you stay with a flat tappet cam research what oil to use. The epa has pretty much cut out zinc in oil. Zinc helped keep the lobes and lifters happy.

Going with a roller block. Yep already know about ZDDP. Not an issue with roller cams.

What really made me choose this direction was the block that cam out of the truck needed to be bored and crank could of used a touch up. My machinist said it was a good core for building a race engine and he offered me a $100 for it. I took that as a credit towards my engine build. That was a no brainier move IMO.

 

[Marshy]

Ok, just bought a cam for the engine today. It a COMP Cam, Xtreme Energy 08-408-8. It fairly mild still but will give great low end power. Specs @ .050 lift are 206/212 duration and .480/.487 lift on 110 LSA. I was really tempted to get something more aggressive but it will lose more and more bottom end the larger duration I add. I think with the headers and a set of Flowmasters this should sound nice. It's too bad you can't have the lope sound and good low end too, I really love that sound.

 

[Marshy]

Finally got my motor back from the machinist! Seemed like it took forever.

The block had the deck skim cut and the bores deglazed. Staying with the standard bore and reusing the pistons, rods and crank. Crank was turned and polished 10 under. New cam and crank bearings, and piston rings. The block is painted and waiting assembly. I spent this past weekend cleaning the piston ring grooves and disassemblibg, cleanjng, reassembling the roller lifters (8 more to go!). Once they are done I can start bolting things together. I'll take the pistons back to the shop and he'll put the rings on.

The heads are bolt on ready. Theybhad the valve seats cut and lapped, guide boss machined for xtra cam lift, new springs locks and retainers and painted. They also had a skim cut on the mating surface to the deck.

I also had a chance to snatch up some Flow master Super 40 mufflers off Craigslist. These have a small dent in them but otherwise in great condition.

 

[audible fart]

What kind of fuel delivery are you going with? I have a 1996 2500 with a 5.7 vortec. If i ever decided to put a motor in it i think i'd have to buy another one and drop it in. Taking everything apart is easy, but putting it back together and having it **** up right away isn't on my to do list. The first step toward failure is trying, as Homer Simpson said. Mild cams are ok, but it seems to me the bigger the cam is, the more the motor just beats itself to death over time.

 

[Marshy]

Right now I have a Edelbrock 1406 carb (600 cfm) on top of a Edelbrock Performer intake. I'm building this for low end torque with no specific number in mind other than cost (as much power as I can get cheap as reasonably possible). The cam I chose could probably be considered one level over stock duration, it probably wont even have a noticable lope. Only real significant chance is the valve lift, its quite a bit more than stock. Only parts I need still are my timing cover, push rods, valve covers, flywheel, electric fuel pump and distributor gear. If I had the extra money I would have built a 383 stroker. But would of needed a rotating assembly and new pistons and block clearance.

 

[Marshy]

Little by little I'm progressing. On there list tonight is finish the rotating assembly, oil pump, pan and rear main seal possibly drop the lifters in and timing chain. The sad thing is the Chevy engine forum in is so freaking slow no one answers any of my questions. :-/

 

[audible fart]

Little by little I'm progressing. On there list tonight is finish the rotating assembly, oil pump, pan and rear main seal possibly drop the lifters in and timing chain. The sad thing is the Chevy engine forum in is so freaking slow no one answers any of my questions. :-/

You could always try calling summit or jegs tech line. I did that earlier today inquiring about their pre bent brake line kits for a 92 sierra shortbed. I didn't know anybody even sold those.

 

[Locust Cutter]

Subbed.

 

[MechanicMatt]

@audible fart , GM dealers sell the pre bent kits for around 100 bucks. Marshy, what do you need to know? Before they made me the service manager, I was a tech for 15 years at the GM dealership

 

[Marshy]

I thought I read to lightly lube there piston rings with WD40 when installing but I couldn't remember where I read that and it didn't sound like sound advice. I've see WD40 shorten bearing life quite significanly and its not a lubricant... I got my answer though, use engine oil... Just finished cleaning the bores and final clean of the piston and rings. It's all in the prep baby.

 

[audible fart]

@audible fart , GM dealers sell the pre bent kits for around 100 bucks. Marshy, what do you need to know? Before they made me the service manager, I was a tech for 15 years at the GM dealership

$100 for a complete pre bent brake line kit from of all places a DEALER? Summit wanted $279. I will call a couple dealers tomorrow and report the prices. My next project is my 1992 gmc sierra shortbed that's been in lawn ornament mode since......2008 lol. I got so sick of working on my chevys i bought a toyota tacoma. But since i bought the tacoma in 2008 all i've had to do is brake pads and i'm getting bored with 100% reliability. Was thinking the other day about my 700r4 dying going down rt 40, and another time the module under the distributor cap failed while i was in the middle lane of 695 in heavy traffic doing 75 at the time. I miss the stomach churning excitement of uncertainty if i'll arrive at my destination, or be able to get back. And the despair of inevitable failure at the worst possible times. I just can't have those soul crushing experiences with my tacoma. That's why i bought a 96 2500 last year, and just can't bring myself to sell my 92 sierra. They're far from perfect, but to me the 88-98 era trucks have character. I can't help but like 'em for some reason.

 

[Marshy]

Thers nothing between '88 and '04 that really peak my interest body wise...

Got the rotating assembly done. When everything is the first time it takes a little longer than you imagine.

Deck clearance on this is .020".