8x8 white oak posts - drying?

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headleyj

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My dad has 1 dead white oak that I took down last night , bout 36" dia....still damp inside.

There are 3 other live ones he wants gone. I'd like to mill these up into 8x8x12' posts for a barn I wanna build.

How far oversize should I mill to account for shrinkage?
How long til I can put them up?

I don't have a moisture meter, but if that's the only way then I'll have to get one.
 
If it were me I'd mill them 8x8 or maybe a 1/4 or a 1/2 inch over but I doubt they are gonna shrink that much. The twelve foot way I would guess it would be about 3/8 or so of shrinkage.

http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage

I actually would rather work with wet wood so if it were me I'd use them a few days after milling. If you've ever cut a tendon in a dry piece of oak you'll know what I'm talking about. If your jacking the barn and removing an old post. I'd cut the post about 1/2 or so taller than you want it and I bet it will settle in to where level is.

Thats my two cents.
 
You can use them green, and they aren't going to shrink much at all. They more than likely WILL distort a bit as they dry.

They do NOT shrink in length.

Rob
 
thanks for the replies fellas. This will be new construstion, just FYI. THink if I metal-banded them like a lumberyard it'd help the twisting?

NO, Use them green and let them dry in place, it's a barn right? They may not twist anyway...

You could always saw them out a couple inches oversize, dry them for a year or so, and resaw them to where you want them.

My vote is to use them green.

Rob
 
NO, Use them green and let them dry in place, it's a barn right? They may not twist anyway...

You could always saw them out a couple inches oversize, dry them for a year or so, and resaw them to where you want them.

My vote is to use them green.

Rob

it's more of a shop/ garage. These posts will be out front on the porch exposed....see the 8 posts out front below.

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NO, Use them green and let them dry in place, it's a barn right? They may not twist anyway...

You could always saw them out a couple inches oversize, dry them for a year or so, and resaw them to where you want them.

My vote is to use them green.

Rob

+1 - if you install them in a way that they can be replaced ie bolts, then cut a couple of extras and put them aside and if by chance one twists so badly you can think about replacing it.
 
it's more of a shop/ garage. These posts will be out front on the porch exposed....see the 8 posts out front below.

attachment.php

i see no need to double up 8x8 posts ,structureally that is. you could go 10x10 that would decrease possible distortion in the beams,but gauging the distance of 12' between posts , one 8"post is fine.
 
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On a 40 foot side for the cover support I would go with a post every 10 foot instead of the double post just for balance,scale or asthetics, pick one, that's just my preference. Since you indicate it is a porch, later on if you decide you can add a railing between the 10 foot sections of 8x8's to "cozy" up that front porch. Maybe later on close it in with temp lexan or clear plastic panels during the winter.... Redraw it, spaced at ten foot, and see what ya got!

Ted

it's more of a shop/ garage. These posts will be out front on the porch exposed....see the 8 posts out front below.

attachment.php
 
the double post was chosen for looks - It just looked small with a single post 12' tall and 40' wide. Also the 8x8 was chosen b/c Simpson strong tie makes bracketry up to this size.

I may play with sizing. we'll see. Thanks for the ideas and comments fellas - I appreciate it and value the opinions.
 
Its his design. I think it looks fine.

I don't like using the Simpson strong tie brackets. I like to make my own brackets or have something made at a welding shop. I have used them in the passed and I can't ever remember saying to myself " Thats gonna last forever".
 
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