A diferent type of chainsaw drill!!

[gink595]

I came across this on youtube somehow but thought it was diiferent enough to post, looks like it would work but reallt can't see a good use for it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWb_a5mIX88&NR=1

 

[olyman]

bet he was going to bury that post, and the hole he made, would be for a round post to stick in hole for "rail" fence--

 

[Backwoods]

Or put some legs on a bench.

 

[Brmorgan]

Gotta make me one of those things. That's really interesting. Is that some home-made jig or a commercial product?

 

[SilverBox]

It looks really slow. A conventional 4-6" hole saw would probably be faster.

 

[gink595]

It looks really slow. A conventional 4-6" hole saw would probably be faster.

That was my thought as well and why I said I couldn't really find a good use for it, if you have to pilot hole it first anyway than you might as well hole saw or whatever they call the big wood bits.

 

[Backwoods]

A whole saw would give you limited depth and would have to be chiseled out, a Forstner bit of that size is going to be spendy.
With the chainsaw drill, you are limited to the size of the bar as to the diameter of the hole. However, for rustic furniture this could be a worthwhile tool to have in your toolbox, along with a full assortment of others. As a stand-alone tool, it would be limited in its use and may stay in the toolbox. Kinda like a carpenter with “just” a hammer in his toolbox.

 

[Freehand]

A whole saw would give you limited depth and would have to be chiseled out, a Forstner bit of that size is going to be spendy.
With the chainsaw drill, you are limited to the size of the bar as to the diameter of the hole. However, for rustic furniture this could be a worthwhile tool to have in your toolbox, along with a full assortment of others. As a stand-alone tool, it would be limited in its use and may stay in the toolbox. Kinda like a carpenter with “just” a hammer in his toolbox.

I agree here...I also like the depth limiting characteristics that the rod tip provides when the bottom of the pilot hole is reached.....food for thought...hmmmopcorn:

 

[Brmorgan]

Heh, I'd like to see someone try to drill with a 3"+ Forstner bit hand-held. They require an enormous amount of torque because of the huge surface area of the cutting edge. The biggest I have is a 2.5", and more than once I've had it grab a piece of wood in the drill press and pull it right out from under a clamp, either jamming it against the press' post or sending it across the room.

I guess to cut holes larger than the bar/chain width you could try to mount the guide post off-center on the bar, but I'm not sure if it would cut as well that way. I'm with Backwoods though - probably not something I'd use a heck of a lot, but it would be handy to have as an option, such as to take out on four-wheeler trips etc. for making impromptu campfire benches and the like. The beauty of it is not in its efficiency, but the fact that it's totally portable and negates the need to also pack around a drill capable of doing the same.

 

[demographic]

Heh, I'd like to see someone try to drill with a 3"+ Forstner bit hand-held. They require an enormous amount of torque because of the huge surface area of the cutting edge. The biggest I have is a 2.5", and more than once I've had it grab a piece of wood in the drill press and pull it right out from under a clamp, either jamming it against the press' post or sending it across the room.

I guess to cut holes larger than the bar/chain width you could try to mount the guide post off-center on the bar, but I'm not sure if it would cut as well that way. I'm with Backwoods though - probably not something I'd use a heck of a lot, but it would be handy to have as an option, such as to take out on four-wheeler trips etc. for making impromptu campfire benches and the like. The beauty of it is not in its efficiency, but the fact that it's totally portable and negates the need to also pack around a drill capable of doing the same.

My Makita 110 volt drill would struggle like hell with an auger bit that size, and I'm pretty sure that the clutch would kick in before I got that big a diameter, its not dead keen on a 36mm auger bit.

Can't say I would use a drill that size but if I did I doubt I would find a drill bit big enough or even a drill powerfull enough to do it.
Maybe one of the petrol drills but they are pretty spendy, hole saws are fairly useless as you are constantly cleaning the waste out of the centre.

Not saying I would buy the chainsaw setup as I have worked as a carpenter for years not and not needed one yet.

 

[rtrsam]

I'm very impressed by this thing; I could see making one myself just out of a piece of steel rod. Only problem would be, if the hole wasn't all the way through, it would have a round bottom folllowing the radiius of the bar tip. But maybe even just for getting a big self-feed bit started at an angle like that it would have a purpose.

I've used self-feed bits up to 2.5" trying to countersink for big washers, at an anlge like the video shows. It's a huge pain, and using something like a "Hole-Hawg" drill
(http://www.milwaukeetool.com/ProductCategory.aspx?CategoryName=SC:++Hole+Hawgs)
, the thing will catch and can easily break your arm. Only problem is, for a washer countersink, I'd need a flat bottom to the hole, which this device would not provide. Still, an ingenious device.

 

[Frank Boyer]

Plumbers use a 3 5/8" and 4 5/8" bit all of the time for 3" and 4" ABS. You don't want to predrill with a Forschner bit, the lead screw pulls the bit.

 

[Metals406]

Buddy of mine made a 6" Forstner bit out'a a piece if well casing. . . Drove it with a tractor and it's PTO.