A Real Leaner

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

2dogs

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
8,080
Reaction score
4,055
Location
Santa Cruz CA
I have a redwood tree down in a creek to take out. The tree fell over about 2 years ago and is sitting at about a 45o angle and is ten feet off the ground the entire length, about 50'. The butt is in the middle of the creek but I really don't know if this is a butt log that is lodged in the rocks or if the tree grew there. There is no evidence of a root plate though it could be buried in the creek. My idea is to wrap the butt with a binder and cut the tree through but I don't know if this is the best way. I want the log to mill even though it is kind of small, 3' at the base. I will use my 660 and a sharp chain and cut as fast as possible and hope the tree doesn't come back at me. It will be tied off at the road above me but it will have alot of room to move. The road is big enough for a pickup truck or a tractor. No crane on this job, not to mention the crane would cost more than the lumber is worth.

There are a ton of old growth cull logs on that property that can have if I can get this log up and mill it. I really want the old growth to sell locally or on ebay but I don't want to get killed in the process. Lots of old redwood stumps too. Some are 8' in diameter and worth a bundle slabbed.

Any ideas on my fools errand? PS I will use standard heavy leaner techniques.
 
Pics?
Sounds like you have the right idea, staying safe being the best. Have you tried to winch it from the top yet? Like even a few feet to see if it'll drop to more managable workin height, or is it stuck at the base? Is it hung in trees at all or just heavy leaning? If you are tying off the top so it doesn't slide back, thats good, what about also tying it away from your cutting side?
Since you can get at the base, and without actually seeing it (pics!), I'd do the wide vee on top and then undercut it (I have used a couple of smaller undercuts before if the release was in question, close together on either side of where the final cut goes, not sop but worked in my instance), I think you know this already though, just try to read ahead the worst case movements and prepare for them and for heaven's sake work smart and safe!
Edit: Upon further reflection, if the tree is solidly in the ground and just grew sideways-like, then it might be more prudent to do a bird's mouth on the lower and a regular backcut on the top, but be very wary of it splitting and kicking, maybe a wrap or three on the tree above your cuts? Just another thought in the wee hours. I know by your posts you're not entirely new to this and a sensible sort, some pics of the job would be appreciated :)

:cheers: (ps. your sig made me laugh today as this dog I babysittin' found something gag-worthy today, boy is she proud of herself *gag-puke*, but man o man my eyes are watering, swim time tomorrow :D )

Serge
 
Last edited:
Pictures, please. Also, I'm snowed out of the woods right now and if you need a hand maybe I could come over there. No charge, but a few eight foot fence posts wouldn't hurt my feelings.:) :cheers:
 
2 dogs... ever heard of the Coos Bay cut???

It is a West Coast cut for big a$$ heavy leaning trees.

Gary

Yep. That is my plan but the ravine is so durn steep and there isn't much room to manuver in the rocks I was hoping you had advice on a skyhook. The tree itself isn't that big. I think it more like 30-32" at the butt. I'll let you know in a couple of weeks how things work out.

Keep the replies coming.
 
I'd like a description of the Coos Bay cut.

Surfed kayaks out there back when I lived out there, prior (unfortunately there was a time) to my timbercutting career. Vineyards in the Willamette Valley. Tractor driver, y si, hablo la lengua.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top