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CameronH

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Hi Members,

I'm not an arborist or a big-time chainsaw user. I have a cheap chainsaw which is a Baumr-AG SX62. These appear to be a cheap Chinese made chainsaw. This Baumr model is sold here in Australia. The saw is a 62cc model. This saw in particular has this code printed on the bar:

BE20-76-5812P

I've found an equivalent model sold in the UK under the Parker Brand.

ZLB20-76-5812P (Parker Brand PCS-6200)

So from my reading of this chainsaws specs I know it's a .325" pitch, 0.058" gauge, 76 drive link chain, 12 tooth. I'm not 100% on the guide bar mount type yet. I need to measure it.

Now for my beginners questions:

I'm looking at some replacement bars. But I don't want the cheap eBay varieties that match the stock bar. From Tornado, Blue Max, Hurricane, Sliner and others.

I'm interested in using a Sugihara, Tsumura, Cannon etc. I know that sounds ridiculous to put an elite bar on a cheap Chinese made saw.

But I've found that most of the 18" and 20" bars in the .325" pitch, 0.058" gauge variety have quite a different chain drive link count.
For example 72 drive links, 78 drive links, 81 drive links etc.

Why are there different drive link counts amongst these brands may I ask please? And what differences does this make? I know the drive link count must match the guide bar specs etc.

Sorry if I'm rambling here but I'm interested in learning what pro grade bars I can get away with for this chainsaw.

Thanks in advance for any tips!
 
I think....There is some slight variation in the actual length of different brands of bar, as will as hight, as well as stand-off distance from the sprocket, so there will be a slight variation in the overall diameter of the bar-sprocket combo, hence the difference in number of drive links. I would just take the saw to your saw shop and find a better bar that will fit. They might not have sugihara etc, but if you can find an Oregon or Stihl bar that is compatible, then you can track down the Sugi/Cannon that is compatible with that particular Stihl or Oregon bar mount. You might want to give them a few bucks for the "fitting session" if you aren't going to buy the Stihl or Oregon bar. Ive never tried the superbars, Stihl has always been good enough for me. If you are going for a better bar, you will need a better chains as well, and a drive sprocket compatible with the new chain. So you'll also need to check sprocket mount compatibility.
 
CameronH said:
Hi Members,

I'm not an arborist or a big-time chainsaw user. I have a cheap chainsaw which is a Baumr-AG SX62. These appear to be a cheap Chinese made chainsaw. This Baumr model is sold here in Australia. The saw is a 62cc model. This saw in particular has this code printed on the bar:

BE20-76-5812P

I've found an equivalent model sold in the UK under the Parker Brand.

ZLB20-76-5812P (Parker Brand PCS-6200)

So from my reading of this chainsaws specs I know it's a .325" pitch, 0.058" gauge, 76 drive link chain, 12 tooth. I'm not 100% on the guide bar mount type yet. I need to measure it.

Now for my beginners questions:

I'm looking at some replacement bars. But I don't want the cheap eBay varieties that match the stock bar. From Tornado, Blue Max, Hurricane, Sliner and others.

I'm interested in using a Sugihara, Tsumura, Cannon etc. I know that sounds ridiculous to put an elite bar on a cheap Chinese made saw.

But I've found that most of the 18" and 20" bars in the .325" pitch, 0.058" gauge variety have quite a different chain drive link count.
For example 72 drive links, 78 drive links, 81 drive links etc.

Why are there different drive link counts amongst these brands may I ask please? And what differences does this make? I know the drive link count must match the guide bar specs etc.

Sorry if I'm rambling here but I'm interested in learning what pro grade bars I can get away with for this chainsaw.

Thanks in advance for any tips!
Click to expand...
Just look up Jono & Johno & they should have your chainsaw model & the bars & chains to suit
 
CameronH said:
I'm interested in using a Sugihara, Tsumura, Cannon etc. I know that sounds ridiculous to put an elite bar on a cheap Chinese made saw.

But I've found that most of the 18" and 20" bars in the .325" pitch, 0.058" gauge variety have quite a different chain drive link count.
For example 72 drive links, 78 drive links, 81 drive links etc.

Why are there different drive link counts amongst these brands may I ask please? And what differences does this make? I know the drive link count must match the guide bar specs etc.
Click to expand...

With the bar mounts I have that use .325 chain the ones Husky and Makita/Dolmar use generally the 72 drive link is for an 18 inch called length laminated bar. The 78 dl is for a 20 inch called length laminated bar. The 81 drive link is for bars that are really used mostly for 3/8 chain either hard nosed or replaceable nose. Echo and Stihl may do things differently. If you are looking at bars in 0.058 that is kind of Husky territory. I do not have any of those brand bars in .325 for what it is worth. I do have a Sugi hara hard nose one in 0.058 and it is 78 dl but the Oregon hard nose one is 81, these may vary a drive link depending on the sprocket size and how you like the space at the bar tail.

Find a bar locator function on the internet and get a name brand and model that takes the same bar would be a good start since you do not seem to post a picture of the tail with a ruler and measurements.
 
When in doubt, take the saw and bar to the dealer. Test fit pre-made loops or have them cut you one, and mount it to make sure it is a fit.

Dealer tech told me link lengths can vary from Oregon to Stihl to Husky to Echo, etc. and that an extra link might need to be added or subtracted depending on the bar. It has got to fit, so make sure with the saw and bar at the dealer. And when you get one that works buy two.
 
Thank you to each and every member for your advice. I've read all of your messages.

I will take some photos of the guide bar and saw with measurements as references for myself and other members interested in researching parts etc. I will post the measurement photos on the weekend.

Here's some general photos of the saw.

full
 
I have the same saw, its a timberpro but the same thing.
It takes a small mount husky .325 bar/chain, ie a 51, 450, 455, 350, 345, etc.
You don't have to stick with .058 gauge, the chain needs to match the bar, .050 is fine and more common, you do need to stick with .325 unless you want to change the rim sprocket too. Some guys put 3/8 on em, rim sprockets are cheap and husky sizes too (19mm)
I have a 18 inch Oregon speed cut bar/chain for a 51 or other small husky on mine, it's nk .050 72 links.
The Chinese 20 inch bars are a little shorter than Oregon or husky 20 inch bars, the Oregon will take a 78 link chain not a 76 like the stock bar.
 
... DL count also depends om the locations of crankshaft center and bar bolts/tensioner pin, that is the distance between them, besides the sprocket size. Brands may share mount patterns but still have different DL counts for the same bar length.
 
SEAM said:
... DL count also depends om the locations of crankshaft center and bar bolts/tensioner pin, that is the distance between them, besides the sprocket size. Brands may share mount patterns but still have different DL counts for the same bar length.
Click to expand...
I do not fully believe this. Hang a rim or spur sprocket on a nail, put the bar and chain on and under it. Does not matter what saw you put it on. If the oiler and adjusters do not line up within the usable range you must have the wrong bar mount. Maybe to get the bar tail to rub the smallest sprocket the adjuster hole needs filed less than a mm, that is my take. Don't most bars call out a number of drive links on the bar itself or the packaging? Even if the package references lots of different things directly or in other literature.




Back to the beginning, The number of teeth of a nose sprocket varies in .325 10 teeth is generally going to be a lighter laminated bar. I think 13 is kind of "standard".
 
I
NSEric said:
I have the same saw, its a timberpro but the same thing.
It takes a small mount husky .325 bar/chain, ie a 51, 450, 455, 350, 345, etc.
You don't have to stick with .058 gauge, the chain needs to match the bar, .050 is fine and more common, you do need to stick with .325 unless you want to change the rim sprocket too. Some guys put 3/8 on em, rim sprockets are cheap and husky sizes too (19mm)
I have a 18 inch Oregon speed cut bar/chain for a 51 or other small husky on mine, it's nk .050 72 links.
The Chinese 20 inch bars are a little shorter than Oregon or husky 20 inch bars, the Oregon will take a 78 link chain not a 76 like the stock bar.
Click to expand...

I like the idea of a .050 gauge as well. I'm considering an 18" Sugihara Light bar. So as long as I observe the rules I'll be ok:

Correct mount type, .325" sprocket type, .050 or .058 gauge, chain drive link number to match bar requirements.

I also guess I need to max out at 20" length. I believe that would probably be the max length for this 62cc motor. Based on the fact that it's a 62cc and the stock bars are 20".

Is this an absolute 'rule' with chainsaws? What happens if I attempted to use a 24" bar? Safety concerns? Damage to the saw? The saw won't run properly? Combination of these factors?
 
CameronH said:
Correct mount type, .325" sprocket type, .050 or .058 gauge, chain drive link number to match bar requirements.

I also guess I need to max out at 20" length. I believe that would probably be the max length for this 62cc motor. Based on the fact that it's a 62cc and the stock bars are 20".

Is this an absolute 'rule' with chainsaws? What happens if I attempted to use a 24" bar? Safety concerns? Damage to the saw? The saw won't run properly? Combination of these factors?
Click to expand...

For that mount at least with Oregon to go to 24 inch with that mount you will end up with a heavy solid (as opposed to laminated with voids in the middle lamina) replaceable nose bar. This could be considered a safety concern.

I have no idea how that saw oils, does the spec sheet call out how much oil the output is for the various settings? You need not necessarily use it in a manner that the whole bar has cutters actually cutting along it's length (rocking action). There is skip chain even in .325 that has 2/3 the cutters per given length so 24 inches of that is likely easier on your saw than 20 inches of normal. The drive sprocket is not specific to 0.050, 0.058, or 0.063 the pockets in the sprocket will accommodate them all.
 
I like 16-18 inch bars on these saws. They're punched out light weight 45cc saws so they get front heavy with 20 inch bars, a 24 inch bar would feel funky, when you picked the saw up the tip of the bar would want to stay on the ground lol.
Mine oiled the 20 inch bar ok but a 24 wouldn't be getting enough oil IMO.
 

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