Looks good!
One question, it looks like the new push bar seems to block the chain brake handle movement? - not that it is that significant on a logosol mill.
Just a couple of tips about remote throttles based on my experiences.
1) Trigger pusher type setups:
Remote throttles that operate by contact of a pusher acting directly onto the trigger, especially those that use a metal pusher, will cause trigger damage. The vibe on any saw (but especially the 090) will eventually cause the pusher to wear away the trigger. With my 076 remote throttle I though I was going to be OK because I had a rubber bike brake pad acting as the trigger pusher but the vibe wore away the rubber pad pusher and started wearing away the trigger face after about 20 logs. I then stuck a 1" long piece of 3/4" diam hydraulic hose onto the brake and this larger harder rubber surface has been much better although some wear still has occurred since and I will have to replace the trigger at some stage. This is one reason why I went a different way with the 880 out.
2) Remote Throttle location:
If the remote is located on the mill it has to be disconnected every time the saw is removed from the mill. This eventually becomes a PITA. A better place for the remote is on the saw - eg the wrap handle.
The last two issues refer to alaskan mills and should be less of or no a problem on a Logosol type mill.
3) Type of hand throttle lever - instantaneous v throttle lock.
A chain saw is not really like a slower revving lawn mower where the revs can be set by a throttle lock and then one more or less goes for it. I prefer an outboard throttle that enables me to drop the saw revs asap in case a problem arises. The quickest way to ensure this is for the operator to always have their hand on the throttle. If the operator inadvertently has their hand elsewhere and has to reach over to a lever to drop the revs a lot can happen in that time which is why saws don't come with a throttle lock. I do agree that there are times when a throttle lock is very useful and I do use mine sometimes on the 880 but since my throttle control is also my push lever I don't usually take my had off it. Also I like to have throttle that I can finesse into the cut and when leaving the cut. Sure one can use the trigger for that (although I note trigger access is not that good on some setups) but why not build the fine rev control into the more comfortable outboard throttle.
4) Cable location:
I also prefer the cable to be well out of the way of the operator. Unless the operator can carry the mill/saw at arms length (a bit hard with an 076/090) the operator will come in contact with the cable. This means for example if the operator trips when carrying the running saw/cs the cable might snag on the operator and rev the saw and fall onto fast running saw. Both my setups have cables which run out of the back of the saw and away from the operator This is not a problem if the saw has a functioning chain brake. One minor problem with the cables coming out of the base of the saw is when the saw is removed from the mill it cannot easily sit on its base.
I hope this is useful to some folks.
