Adjustable False Crotch

[Tim Gardner]

OK guys now that I can stand to look at trees again I am building an adjustable false crotch. I did a search and I am sure it is there but I could not locate a thread that specified the length of rope used. I will be using it to work off the spare as well as in the top. So what length has worked out best for you guys?

Any tips on using one will be a big help too. My five footer has worked great but will not fit on big wood and is too long on some TIPS. Thanks.

 

[treeclimber165]

Why not have more than one? I have a couple short ones (fixed length) I use for different size tie-ins. One is about 2' and perfect for high tie-ins smaller than 6". I have another that's about 4' that is good for tying in on 12"- 24" stuff like when doing removals. I haven't gotten to where I use one on big wood yet, but I'd probably just splice up a longer one for that.

If you really want just one, and want it adjustable, the max length would depend on the size trees you work most often. I can't recall the last time I had no choice but to tie into wood larger than 3' diameter. Most wood that size around here has plenty of smaller limbs coming off it that I can use for tying in.

 

[BigJohn]

Seems like everything around here is about 2 or 3 inches in diameter and 90 to 100 feet up. The higher the better. I would think 9 ft. would be plenty and you could daisy chain what you don't use. The longest friction saver I have is about 3ft and the others are about 16 or 18 inches single pulley setups non adjustable. I like how the pulley follows you around. I'm thinking of picking up the RG from Fresco, I believe its only 135 not too bad. I guess if I had it I would use it. I have a lock jack that I've only used like 5 times.

Big John

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I'm with Brian on the multiple lengths.

You can use different cord lengths and transfer the hardwear over to it as needed.

Maybe even splice some hollow core rope for the main body to save some changer. Tenex gets pretty stiff after it is spliced, does not pick out as bad. I made a balancer for a buddy out of it and it works pretty good.

Tim Walsh has several different FC's for climbing abd blocking a spar down. One of these days he will post the pics he has of them

 

[heartland]

Are you guys making these out of rope or same material as used in the 2-ring friction saver (see attached)? Just curious.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Regular 16 strand with a tress cord to hold the pulley

there are several pictures around here if you search some you may find one.

 

[BigJohn]

I've been makeing most of mine with spliced 16 strand or T900. I like T900 but it's costly and takes a little longer to splice much more stronger and more secure spllice. I have made some from webbing that I have professionaly stitched with a ring on one end and I use a biner and pulley on the other.

 

[treeclimber165]

Since the purpose of a friction saver is to protect the tree as well as our ropes, I do not think using a tiny diameter rope is the best choice. I'm using 1/2" for my lifeline FC and 1/2" or 5/8" for rigging. I'd think using a tiny 8mm T-900 (7000# rating I think) would dig into the tree and cause more damage than not using a FC.

I just picked up some 5/8" double braid (not sure which one off the top of my head) from SailNet on sale for 80 cents per foot. It splices easily and is rated for about 13,600 lbs. I made two eye-and-eye slings and they are very soft, lightweight and easy to work with. They seem to be holding up well also.