Advice on AUX Oiler nut location

[JasonMS660]

Hi Guys,
I need to drill my bar to get the AUX Oiler set up however I need some advice on the appropriate location on the bar for the hole. Ideally I would like to get the most cutting width I can however this would mean that I have drilling into the BAR where the rebate for the replaceable nose is which might be ok but I just want to put it out there for advice. The next alternative is to pull things back further and loose some of the cutting width which doesn’t worry me too much apart from having to make up a new safety shield which will make things awkward. Ideally if I drill right up the end I will have the best of both worlds but just concerned that I could affect the strength of the bar at the rebate. I posted a pick (First one ever) so I hope that helps explain my dilemma.I'm running a Granberg 36" Alaskan with a MS660.
Cheers Jason

 

[BobL]

I drilled the bar for an aux oiler for one bar and wouldn't bother doing it again. A

Position the end of the oiler just above where the chain kisses the bar rail after the chain has gone around the nose so that the oil wicks out.
If you need ideas about how to do this just ask.

That way there is no need to drill the bar twice - remember you will need to flip the bar occasionally. Plus there is less chance of the hole blocking up.

 

[JasonMS660]

I drilled the bar for an aux oiler for one bar and wouldn't bother doing it again. A

Position the end of the oiler just above where the chain kisses the bar rail after the chain has gone around the nose so that the oil wicks out.
If you need ideas about how to do this just ask.

That way there is no need to drill the bar twice - remember you will need to flip the bar occasionally. Plus there is less chance of the hole blocking up.

Hi Bob, sorry mate I'm a bit slow are you suggesting that I don't drill the bar and use the nut oiler? I assume you are suggesting to have the line sitting just above the bar and dripping between in the grove between the chain and the Bar. Thanks for yor response Bob I appriciate it. Now I know how to post picks I be sure to start loading some with my recent attempts which came up well. I just need to get the oiler up and running and I'm eyeing off a couple of nice black wood trees that have nice straight trunks. Cheers and thanks for the advice. Jason

 

[JasonMS660]

Bump :confused2:

 

[BobL]

View attachment 316398View attachment 316396

Hi Bob, sorry mate I'm a bit slow are you suggesting that I don't drill the bar

Yep

and use the nut oiler?

I'm not sure what you mean by this

I assume you are suggesting to have the line sitting just above the bar and dripping between in the grove between the chain and the Bar.

Yep

I'd upload a pic showing this but pick loading doesn't seem to be working at the moment.

Thanks for yor response Bob I appriciate it. Now I know how to post picks I be sure to start loading some with my recent attempts which came up well. I just need to get the oiler up and running and I'm eyeing off a couple of nice black wood trees that have nice straight trunks. Cheers and thanks for the advice. Jason

No worries.

 

[john taliaferro]

No worries.


yep , except carry an extra wire tye .
o forgot Welcome to AS

 

[JasonMS660]

No worries.


yep , except carry an extra wire tye .
o forgot Welcome to AS

Thanks Bob and JohnT
Bob I was questioning should I drill through the bar and use the bolt with the middle drilled out to provide oil direct into the inside of the grove or just wire off the end of the oiler hose just above the bar and chain.

Jason

 

[Pagie]

Thanks Bob and JohnT
Bob I was questioning should I drill through the bar and use the bolt with the middle drilled out to provide oil direct into the inside of the grove or just wire off the end of the oiler hose just above the bar and chain.

Jason

Yes you don't need to drill the bar for the oil. Just drip it on the bar at the return of the chain just inside the chain. Come down and have a look if u like at mine.

 

[JasonMS660]

Yes you don't need to drill the bar for the oil. Just drip it on the bar at the return of the chain just inside the chain. Come down and have a look if u like at mine.

Thanks mate, I assume you're in the hills near me. What sort of set up are ou running, are o cutting local hardwood?
Cheers

 

[Boon]

I drilled the bar for an aux oiler for one bar and wouldn't bother doing it again. A

Position the end of the oiler just above where the chain kisses the bar rail after the chain has gone around the nose so that the oil wicks out.
If you need ideas about how to do this just ask.

That way there is no need to drill the bar twice - remember you will need to flip the bar occasionally. Plus there is less chance of the hole blocking up.

Bob are you able to clear up why it is ok to do this.

I thought the oil was there to lubricate the chain surfaces running inside the bar & cool, plus it builds up in the bar groove adding to the overall oiling effect.

If the oil drips from one side of the bar and one side / surface of the chain, is this still effective enough to reduce wear and aid in cooling?

From what I can picture the oil coming from the inside groove would be more effective.

Am I missing something??

 

[BobL]

To understand why this works we need a quick revision of how chains get lubed.

At WOT of 88 ft/s and an oil flow rate of 40 mL/min that's = 0.67 mL/s (or 0.022 oz/s) to lube 22 passes of chain on a 42" bar.
This shows how little oil is needed for conventional lubing and in turn why we use an Aux oiler!

The bottom of the bar groove is where the saw delivers the oil which allows it to act as a temporary oil reservoir and does not get any friction, while the inside sides of the bar groove is not as critical as the top of the bar groove and the underneath of the chain tie straps which receive high loadings while cutting. The tie straps bottom surfaces (TSBS) don't actually get lubed much at the standard saw lube point. At this point the drive links (DLs) are just going past too fast to allow time for the oiler to force lube up onto the TSBS but the DLs do sweep up the oil, and as they travel around the drive sprocket the oil that has been smeared onto the DLs gets thrown outwards thru the chain linkages and the sideways onto the bottoms of the ties straps. The top of the groove thereafter only gets that smear of lube that remains on the tie strap bottoms i.e. not much. A lot of oil gets wasted at the Drive sprocket - try running your saw for 60 secs at close to WOT to see what comes off.

Then the chain has to go around the nose where any excess oil remaining on the chain gets a chance to get flung off. This does serve two useful purposes in that excess oil that comes off cools the chain and also clears off the crap that has become attached to the chain whilst it rides around on the back of the bar. What finally gets around to business or cutting side of the top of the bar groove is a very thin film of remaining lube. At that point forcing oil into the bar groove via an Aux oiler may not deliver enough oil up through the chain linkages and onto the two surfaces that need it most because the chain no longer has to go around anything in a tight circle to generate the centrifugal force to send the lube onto those high friction areas. This leads me to think that if a hole in the bar method is used it may actually work better if it is employed before the chain goes around the bar nose.

Dripping B&C oil like directly onto the TSBS and top of the bar groove will quickly wick directly onto the topside critical areas especially if they are warm or hot.
I have always been concerned that the surfaces on the under side of the bar would not get enough oil but I have not detected any excess wear in that area after milling many logs this way.
This is probably because there is small gap between the tie straps where the oil has a chance to get thru to the other side.

I have show this pic several times before but because I can't link to it I will upload it again.
This shows how much of a pool of oil I like to see on the bar while I'm cutting.
It's not easy to see on this pic but if the log is on a slope the oil will tend to run off the bar down onto the chain.

 

[Boon]

Thanks for clearing that up Bob, can I ask what oil you use? ATM am using Gulf Western can get it a Supercheap Auto. It seems to be the best bargain around and still tacky.

 

[BobL]

In the saw I was using Caltex B&C oil but recently I switched to something called Tru-Blue B&C oil (http://www.trubluoil.com.au/index.php/industrial/chain-a-bar-oil) because I can get it with extra tackiness added to it.
The last 20 Litre container I bought cost about $3.25 a litre but I believe it has gone up a bit since then.
In the aux oiler I was using canola because I could get it at just under $3 a litre but I am going to switch to using Tru-blue oil because long term the canola makes a real mess and gums everything up.
Ideally I'd like to have have a higher tackiness oil in the saw and a lower tackiness oil for the aux oiler.

 

[Boon]

Ideally I'd like to have have a higher tackiness oil in the saw and a lower tackiness oil for the aux oiler.[/quote]

Thanks for the link will have a look into it.
I assume that having a tackier oil in the saw would potentially re-lube the chain after coming through the log & aid in cooling? but what about the aux oiler having less tackiness, could only possibly figure it would penetrate into the d/l's more.

 

[BobL]

Ideally I'd like to have have a higher tackiness oil in the saw and a lower tackiness oil for the aux oiler.

Thanks for the link will have a look into it.
I assume that having a tackier oil in the saw would potentially re-lube the chain after coming through the log & aid in cooling?[/quote]
Tackier oil hangs in better as the chain goes around sprockets and does not get squeezed out as easily at the bar chain interface..
Cooling requires dumping the oil at the sprockets but tackier oil does not do that. Of course more oil means less heat generated.
But super high tackiness in not good either as the oil has to come off sometime otherwise the chain will become a gunky oily rope.

[/quote]but what about the aux oiler having less tackiness, could only possibly figure it would penetrate into the d/l's more.[/quote] Yep