aftermarket ms290 block

[gearhead88]

The piston and cylinder are shot in my ms290. Got it all torn down and cleaned up. I'm leaning towards going with the 390 block but cant decide which replacement block to go with. I'm definitely not going with oem as it will cost as much as a new saw but am unsure about the no name engines on ebay. Which ones have you guys had luck with. If I go with the 390 block will the carb have enough adjustment to feed the bigger bore or do I need a 390 carb to match. Baileys has a nwp 49mm short block assembly for 139.99 but its a bit more than im looking to spend on a ms290. I realize this topic has come up a few times but I have been sifting through this forum for over an hour and every post I find on this issue seems to go off topic and I cant find a clear convincing verdict

 

[CsClimbr]

We’re you pricing an entire short block or just top end (p&c)? Easy enough on them clamshells to just swap out the crank, base plate, bearings and seals with an AM 390 top.

It’s been a couple years but I built a couple of them converted to 390’s but my memory doesn’t recall which AM tops I threw on

 

[gearhead88]

that price was for the complete short block. The piston and cylinder are definitely toast. I Think I felt the slightest play in one of the crank bearings and the crank seals and wrist pin bearing are definitely a replace item when rebuilding. However the base plate and crank are good and the lower connecting rod bearings are tight.

 

[CsClimbr]

I can dig around in my 290/390 parts boxes to see if I have a decent p&c for you if that helps, but like I said it’s been a couple years so not sure what I’ll find

Couldn’t hurt to browse Hutzl’s website for kits but again I couldn’t recommend which AM brands are turning out the best kits these days

Edit: if you decide to order, I’d recommend OEM circlips for sure. This 390 top build was AM clips

 

[gearhead88]

If you got some parts to spare they would be much appreciated. I had one guy say the stay away from huztl/farmertec due to cylinder coating pealing off so I searched other forums and it seems like alot of people have had great luck with them and some shops actually started carrying them. I looked at huztl/farmertec website and I can get a complete shorh block, spikes for both side of my bar(mine only has one) oil, impulse, and fuel line, and 3 air filters for 67.66 but the 38.89 shipping cost is a tad high. I also found the website sawagain.com that has a 49mm raisman kit that has the nikasil cylinder, piston, crank bearings/seals, and wrist pin bearing. They also have oil, impulse, and fuel line, and an air filter for 87.38 shipped that im leaning towards

 

[CsClimbr]

If you got some parts to spare they would be much appreciated. I had one guy say the stay away from huztl/farmertec due to cylinder coating pealing off so I searched other forums and it seems like alot of people have had great luck with them and some shops actually started carrying them. I looked at huztl/farmertec website and I can get a complete shorh block, spikes for both side of my bar(mine only has one) oil, impulse, and fuel line, and 3 air filters for 67.66 but the 38.89 shipping cost is a tad high. I also found the website sawagain.com that has a 49mm raisman kit that has the nikasil cylinder, piston, crank bearings/seals, and wrist pin bearing. They also have oil, impulse, and fuel line, and an air filter for 87.38 shipped that im leaning towards

I have no experience with the Raisman’s but I’d be leaning that way too unless someone else chimes in. For that price I may even build another 1 of mine. Sweet deal

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

FWIW, I used the Baileys NWP short block. Quality was good and easy swap. Cost more but time saver.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Don’t use AM fuel lines.

I bought a Huztl short block. I installed it and used it until we noticed crank play from the pto side. After stripping it down we noticed the engine “pan” aka the bottom of the clamshell (base plate) had a sloppy fit on the pto side. The bearing seat wasn’t right... may have been wallowed a bit by the bearing or may have caused the bearing failure... not sure. Replaced back with the OEM pan/base plate and new Nachi bearings and all is good. You could immediately tell the difference in the bearing seats; oem was tighter.

The plating won’t last anywhere near OEM but may allow you to cut a lot of wood before anything happens.

The crankshaft hasn’t died yet but who knows on those.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

The carb you have will be just fine for the 390. Muffer mod, remove carb limiters, clean air filter, and go cut wood.

Personally I’d try my luck with another Farmertec or Hyway and use Nachi bearings... with your oem base plate and crank. Caber rings make for more compression and easier install (less likely to break) but may be hard on the aforementioned plating.

 

[CsClimbr]

Yes, use as many OEM parts you have while (or if) you strip it down. 290 Carb is fine as mentioned above and they ain’t too bad with a simple muffler mod and re-tune

 

[ZeroJunk]

I have installed four or five of the Hutzl 390 motors. A couple are in the neighborhood and running fine, doubt there are that many hours on them. Just firewood cutters. But, for $78 shipped, why not.

 

[Poleman]

Definitely replace bearings if you feel play and seals. Carb will be fine. Muffler mod is a mus and very easy to do on these saws. I would also go 390....same price more vroom, vroom!!! Makes them a very respectable saw.
I've used Hutzl, P/C's which have all been ok just more cleanup. I usually port all the ones I get my hands on so that' not an issue. My favorite P/C is from Everest....very clean and will accept the Cross pop up piston. I've yet to have one of the AM p/c's go bad and some have been going 5 years.....moslty firewood but one if in a Tree Service inventory and gets used daily. It' became one of their favorite saws as it was ported and very strong.

 

[CsClimbr]

Definitely replace bearings if you feel play and seals. Carb will be fine. Muffler mod is a mus and very easy to do on these saws. I would also go 390....same price more vroom, vroom!!! Makes them a very respectable saw.
I've used Hutzl, P/C's which have all been ok just more cleanup. I usually port all the ones I get my hands on so that' not an issue. My favorite P/C is from Everest....very clean and will accept the Cross pop up piston. I've yet to have one of the AM p/c's go bad and some have been going 5 years.....moslty firewood but one if in a Tree Service inventory and gets used daily. It' became one of their favorite saws as it was ported and very strong.

May I ask what you’re using for porting these? A full setup Fordham with right angles or something smaller like a dremel setup?

I’m set with the dremel equipped but thinking of going all out with a Fordham

Pardon my spelling if not correct

 

[Poleman]

I have a Dumore setup just like a Foredome but I believe more commercially used. I have the straight and 90 degree heads from CC Specialties and a wide selection of burrs and roll polishers.
I use a Dremel and a 4mm diamond burr to bevel port edges.