Air Drying Photos

[Timberwerks]

Hi Guys

Looking for ideas on how to set up areas outside for air drying. Are you drying in the all open, covered, sheds or ??? Shaded areas, sunny? I have both so looking for ideas. I enjoy working with air dried vs kiln dried so this will be more for me than for wood I sell.

Thanks

 

[Pfin]

Hi Guys

Looking for ideas on how to set up areas outside for air drying. Are you drying in the all open, covered, sheds or ??? Shaded areas, sunny? I have both so looking for ideas.

Thanks

I use an old barn, wood is stacked and stickered and the stack is weighted and/or strapped depending on what I have available. I'm a more of a serious weekend warrior type who enjoys some imperfections, so I'm sure the pros here will have some more valuable input. For wood I want to use in the near future I air dry for 2-3 weeks, then use a self-made dehumidification kiln, 4x4x10 (about $300 into it). Take my experience with a large grain of salt, but the wood comes out good enough for projects I work on..... Anyway, shade for sure and keep the bottom a few inches off the ground level (supported and level), sticker the rest... proper air flow... and drink plenty of beer.
Also, take a look here...

 

[H 2 H]

I just moved 5 + cords this past weekend 4 cords in a wood shed and one cord behide the garage

View attachment 311671

2 cords were out in the open with NO cover what so ever and the other 3 + cords were stacked in one cord stacks in the woods with NO cover at all

It's been a dry summer here in the PNW (don't tell anyone) so weather hasn't been a problem here

 

[hamish]

I use an old barn, wood is stacked and stickered and the stack is weighted and/or strapped depending on what I have available. I'm a more of a serious weekend warrior type who enjoys some imperfections, so I'm sure the pros here will have some more valuable input. For wood I want to use in the near future I air dry for 2-3 weeks, then use a self-made dehumidification kiln, 4x4x10 (about $300 into it). Take my experience with a large grain of salt, but the wood comes out good enough for projects I work on..... Anyway, shade for sure and keep the bottom a few inches off the ground level (supported and level), sticker the rest... proper air flow... and drink plenty of beer.
Also, take a look here...

Beer is essential in the drying process. Just had a few watching a stack in my shop dry.

 

[Dave Boyt]

I don't have the luxury of shade, but do keep stacks of wood covered with metal roofing (for both sun and rain). Here is a link to thread that shows how I dry the wood.

http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/234732.htm#post4301236

It is important to use dry stickers, and have them spaced close enough that the wood doesn't sag (I use about 20" spacing for 1" thick boards).

 

[Timberwerks]

My current location was a good place, or so I thought. Turns out it gets to much sun light and the wood seems to be drying to fast, even being with covered.

View attachment 311727

 

[Dave Boyt]

Timberwerks are you getting surface checking on those slabs? The end checking in the photos is more an indication of moisture loss through the ends of the boards. What end coating do you use? I've had good luck with Anchorseal, but latex paint is also said to work well.

 

[Timberwerks]

Timberwerks are you getting surface checking on those slabs? The end checking in the photos is more an indication of moisture loss through the ends of the boards. What end coating do you use? I've had good luck with Anchorseal, but latex paint is also said to work well.

This log actually sat for 3 yrs before it came here, no sealer on ends. Once I got it I sealed the ends with latex paint, end checks were already there. I'll take a photo later today of what I'm getting now, it may be because of the fact these two slabs are nearest / include the pith.

 

[Timberwerks]

Here is whats happening. The other half of the log that has not been milled yet is doing the same thing even though it's in a shaded area & covered.

View attachment 311768View attachment 311769View attachment 311770View attachment 311771

 

[Dave Boyt]

Timberwerks, those are nice slabs. Maple? Other than restricting the air flow around the slabs, I don't know what you could have done differently. It looks like the boards were trying to cup. Have you ever tried an epoxy/turquoise mix or epoxy/bronze powder mix to fill in the cracks?

 

[Timberwerks]

Timberwerks, those are nice slabs. Maple? Other than restricting the air flow around the slabs, I don't know what you could have done differently. It looks like the boards were trying to cup. Have you ever tried an epoxy/turquoise mix or epoxy/bronze powder mix to fill in the cracks?

Hi Dave

these are Burr Oak, the color in the photos is off. I have used epoxy for many slabs so it will also be done on these. Limiting air flow sounds like a good idea though. I'll have to try that for future boules.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Limiting air flow sounds like a good idea though.

They sell a kind of, netting cloth just for that purpose. It looks to me like they dried to fast too...

SR

 

[hamish]

They sell a kind of, netting cloth just for that purpose. It looks to me like they dried to fast too...

SR

Geotextile (aka Landscape fabric) is a much cheaper alternative.

Air drying is an involved process if you want a true quality end product.

For the wood I have "special" uses for (any material requiring more than a jointing) gets moved into the garage or shop after spending a year or so in the barn. Air drying in a covered and sheltered structure greatly limits board discoloration, drying too fast and environmental wetting.

 

[TPA]

You almost can't avoid that checking with oak. I've gotten to the point that I leave oak in log form for a minimum of 1 year. Stored off the ground, covered, and outdoors so that it dries as slowly as possible. There is often still checking after doing it this way.

 

[Timberwerks]

You almost can't avoid that checking with oak. I've gotten to the point that I leave oak in log form for a minimum of 1 year. Stored off the ground, covered, and outdoors so that it dries as slowly as possible. There is often still checking after doing it this way.

This may explain why I never see Oak slabs at my local hardwood dealer, plenty of Walnut, Cherry but never Oak.