Alaskan lll Questions

[liquidmetal]

A few year's ago we owned a logosol M7 with a Stihl 066 we used that to mill Quite a bit of lumber over 2 1/2 years. but since we dont have that anymore ive been looking at the alaskan mills and have a question about how they work.

1. can you run the mill with out the add on rails that you all seem to build/buy if so why do you need the rails and if you run it with out a rail system what happens when you try and mill a log that is not so strait? i.e. how does the mill slide a cross a curved log?

thanks for any help

 

[BobL]

Can you run the mill with out the add on rails that you all seem to build/buy

Unless you are a good freehander, when using an alaskan the first cut MUST use a guide board or rails.

if so why do you need the rails and if you run it with out a rail system what happens when you try and mill a log that is not so strait? i.e. how does the mill slide a cross a curved log?

See above - Look in the milling Sticky and you will see a wide range of rails/guide boards etc.

 

[liquidmetal]

do you guys continue to use it after the first cut? do you just keep useing the rails to try and get better lumber?

 

[Andrew96]

That depends on how the first cut went. Most of the time they go nice so I ditch my starter board (I don't use rails but a board..or a ladder), the just cut away. Since I'm going to remachine my slabs later...I'm not too concerned on how perfect they are. I'd like flat to 1/4" (over about 10'). Sometimes things don't go well and I have to use the starter board on the second cut as well. Then things are fine for the rest of the cuts.

 

[BobL]

do you guys continue to use it after the first cut? do you just keep useing the rails to try and get better lumber?

Yep - Most of the time I do. Bear in mid the timber I mill is hard and harder so the last thing I want to be doing is spending time with this stuff blunting my jointers and thicknessers.

 

[Jon C]

Alaskan saw mill

I agree with BobL, First cut needs guide rails to insure a flat/straight cut. After that I remove them and just set the depth of cut and run. There is a couple inches at start and finish that may be coarse but I tend to cut about 9-12" extra length and trim after drying.

 

[BobL]

I also start and stop my mill on my rails - it's a lot easier than starting the saw on the ground and lifting and carrying a running saw. When I finish a cut I let the saw cool off on the rails as well.

 

[gr8scott72]

I found that without using rails, the end of the cut was very hard to keep flat as the saw was coming out of the wood because the front rail of the mill is already off the log. I had the problem of tipping the saw down just a little causing a slight dip in the cut. The problem then gets exaggerated on the next cut and the next one after that as the rail follows that small dip on the log making each slab worse and worse.

With the rails, you don't have to fight the saw trying to keep it even as you come out of the cut.

 

[liquidmetal]

thats pretty much what i needed to know guys thank you.