Alaskan mk3 mounting mods

[boostnut]

So I picked up a used 36" Alaskan mark3 and an 075 last month and have looked it over and determined I'm not sold on the clamp style mount. I would like to switch to a bolt on mount. My thoughts are to cut the original 1" x 2" x 1/4" thick clamping pads off of the frame and replace them with 1 of the 2 following:

1" x 3" x 1/2" thick pads that are drilled & tapped (probably 3/8" x 24)

or

1" x 3" x 1/2" thick pads with threaded studs (probably 3/8" x 24) welded in from the back

The studs would allow the use of nylock nuts. This should help prevent the nuts from backing off from the vibration of the saw. The drawback would be potential damage. If the studs threads got damaged it would be like starting from scratch with a new pad & stud, cutting and welding.

So what do you think, is the stud & nylock nut mounting arrangement the way to go or do you have other suggestions?

 

[mtngun]

Existing Alaskan pads D&T'd, studs secured with both threadlocker and jam nuts, so the studs can be replaced if the need arises.

Locknuts and spring washers to secure. Nut on nose is merely snugged up, to avoid pinching sprocket bearing.

 

[BobL]

In the inboard side on my small mill I
- removed the pair of square tubular steel clamps altogether.
- welded a 3/4 solid steel bars onto the end of the upright.
- tapped a single 8 mm thread through the middle of the 3/4" bar
- Bar is attached using one 8 mm Allen bolt with a fat spring washer.
It's never even looked like coming loose.

The main reason I did this was to add flexible wheel arrangements - see here.

On the outboard side all my mills have a nose clamp that clamps across the end of the nose onto 6 mm bolts that like are snug fit thru the centre of the nose. Clamp pressure is only on bolt and not onto nose so there is no chance of crushing the bar nose. Clamp is held by a one bolt operation so it is still possible to change the chain without removing the saw from the mill.

Mtngun's inboard twin bolt method is also potentially able to correct for bar not being exactly parallel to milling rails. This could be very handy if a mill ever gets bent around a bit.

 

[boostnut]

Great advise so far, keep it coming. I should have noted that I have a 36" mill and a 48" bar with a helper handle. The holes/slots are already in the bar and will line up with the mill when it is set to its maximum width. I'm lucky here since I won't have to drill the bar BUT it doesnt enable me to use MTNGUNS dual bolt design. Thanks again!

 

[BobL]

Great advise so far, keep it coming. I should have noted that I have a 36" mill and a 48" bar with a helper handle. The holes/slots are already in the bar and will line up with the mill when it is set to its maximum width. I'm lucky here since I won't have to drill the bar BUT it doesnt enable me to use MTNGUNS dual bolt design. Thanks again!

My experience with pre drilled holes in bars is that they don't always maximize the length of cut possible, especially if the dogs are removed.

 

[boostnut]

Bob, I believe it although I got really lucky with this arrangement. The only way the holes line up is if I extend the mill rails all the way out (maximizing the cut width).

Also I should mention that I'm not concerned with pinching the bar end with this setup since the bar is so much longer than the mill.

 

[Brmorgan]

My experience with pre drilled holes in bars is that they don't always maximize the length of cut possible, especially if the dogs are removed.

Is that what those little aluminum plugs found in many bars are for? I had an old guy tell me once to punch them out and the bar will stay cooler... Now I'm no engineer, but I don't see how that makes sense. Whatever. I'd never even thought of them possibly being pre-drilled mill mount holes before.

 

[BobL]

Is that what those little aluminum plugs found in many bars are for? I had an old guy tell me once to punch them out and the bar will stay cooler... Now I'm no engineer, but I don't see how that makes sense. Whatever. I'd never even thought of them possibly being pre-drilled mill mount holes before.

Yup - that's exactly what they are for. Most people forget that alaskan mills have been around almost as long as chainsaws and the first ones nearly all used drilled bars.

Bob, I believe it although I got really lucky with this arrangement. The only way the holes line up is if I extend the mill rails all the way out (maximizing the cut width). Also I should mention that I'm not concerned with pinching the bar end with this setup since the bar is so much longer than the mill.

Sure I understand that but with an 075 and a 48" bar I reckon it won't be long before you will want to be cutting wider that the width of the 36" mill I guess you can cross that bridge when you get to that point.

 

[huskyhank]

Leave plenty of room between the saw and the mill so the exhaust gas and heat can escape more readily. I leave the dogs on my saws and clamp about a 1/8" off them to allow for any flex or vibration. That gives plenty of space away from the log. IMO.

 

[BobL]

Leave plenty of room between the saw and the mill so the exhaust gas and heat can escape more readily. I leave the dogs on my saws and clamp about a 1/8" off them to allow for any flex or vibration. That gives plenty of space away from the log. IMO.

Normally I would agree with your comments but he does have an 075 and the exhaust location for these saws means he doesn't need to worry about this so he could have his clamps almost but not touching the oil tank.

 

[huskyhank]

OK, I've never seen an 075 and I'll take your word for it.

 

[BobL]

the 075/76 exhaust locations are very good for milling.

The less positive aspects of these saws are the outboard clutch and the location of the mix filler cap means it is hard to completely refill mid-slab.

Otherwise they are great fund to use and are built to last.

 

[huskyhank]

That's about as good as it gets for moving the exhaust away from the miller.

 

[boostnut]

Bob, what's your opinion on that GB hardtop? I have a guy locally that has a bunch of them new in box. I'm going to pick up a 30" for the 075, may need it for firewood cutting now and then, may even mill some smaller stuff with it. Never ran a non-sprocket nose before, what should I expect?