Alittle nervous about CSM

[f3rr3t]

i Just acquired a stihl 045 AV super electronic for the purpose of using in a chain saw mill. i will be installing a new piston (54mm) and rings replacing seals and gaskets. the usual things. and repainting.

i do plan to fully port the motor and try to gain some more power, as well as open up the exhaust and use a different air filter to try to cool the saw down. Will be using a 42" solid nose bar with a rake chain.

Is there anything i can do to extend the life of the saw? as i really rather not have to try to find another piston

 

[Mad Professor]

Add a water drip system to keep the bar cool

 

[BobL]

I'd recommend using more bar oil than any water - use an auxiliary oiler.

My best tip is to always keep the chain as sharp as you can and set the rakers using a progressive raker setting device like an FOP.

 

[Andrew96]

Run fresh good fuel in it mixed with good oil (I use full synthetic but to each his own). If you use your new saw, you'll need another piston eventually. That's a wearing part along with the rings. It's replaced after a certain number of running hours (insert your favourite number here). If you would really like to do something to extend the number of running hours on that top end, warm it up properly at low to no rpms (that's right...low..) before your cut (waiting for 2 minutes or more feels like a really long time) and let it cool down properly (again 2 minutes should work unless it's very hot that day in FL), before you shut it off.

 

[f3rr3t]

The oiler was in the works already. Some confusion i quess. this will not be used in a stationary mill this is used in a alaskan style mill. Also lucky me the stock piston was in great shape so it can be a spare.

 

[huskyhank]

I get another bar with a sprocket tip. I think you'll have a lot of drag with a solid nose bar.

 

[f3rr3t]

I get another bar with a sprocket tip. I think you'll have a lot of drag with a solid nose bar.

was told the solid bar is better doe to me milling in the forest in the grit and sand

 

[BobL]

was told the solid bar is better doe to me milling in the forest in the grit and sand

This only applies if you are sticking the nose into the dirt. For milling its the dirt caught in the bark that causes the main problems. However, read on

I get another bar with a sprocket tip. I think you'll have a lot of drag with a solid nose bar.

I'm not convinced this is the case. I've cut about 50 logs with a 42" hardnose bar before I tried a sprocket nose and when I switched I couldn't tell the difference in cutting speed. Hardnose does require a little more finesse in not overtightening the chain and once the nose is worn out out the bar is toast.

If you still haven't bought the bar I'd suggest going with the sprocket nose

 

[f3rr3t]

This only applies if you are sticking the nose into the dirt. For milling its the dirt caught in the bark that causes the main problems. However, read on



I'm not convinced this is the case. I've cut about 50 logs with a 42" hardnose bar before I tried a sprocket nose and when I switched I couldn't tell the difference in cutting speed. Hardnose does require a little more finesse in not overtightening the chain and once the nose is worn out out the bar is toast.

If you still haven't bought the bar I'd suggest going with the sprocket nose

someone said i can get a roller nose bar from GB bars.

 

[BobL]

someone said i can get a roller nose bar from GB bars.

I have roller noses on my 60" bars but I don't think they make them any more so you would have to find old stock somewhere.

 

[f3rr3t]

I have roller noses on my 60" bars but I don't think they make them any more so you would have to find old stock somewhere.

Ill have to see what i can find. If not it will be a GB sprocket nose.

Any suggestions on bar brands? as well as chains, Milling mostly oak and cedar and sand pine

 

[jimdad07]

Ill have to see what i can find. If not it will be a GB sprocket nose.

Any suggestions on bar brands? as well as chains, Milling mostly oak and cedar and sand pine

Stihl makes a good bar. I agree with a bar with a replaceable sprocket, I am also learning to keep it greased up and doing preventative maintenance on the saw every time I use it, weather I am bucking or milling. I am also learning to listen to the guys on here because between BobL and the rest, they know what they speak of. Good luck.

 

[woodsrunner]

i do plan to fully port the motor and try to gain some more power, as well as open up the exhaust and use a different air filter to try to cool the saw down. Will be using a 42" solid nose bar with a rake chain.

Is there anything i can do to extend the life of the saw? as i really rather not have to try to find another piston

Do a search on this forum about modifying your saw for milling. I would suggest that the fully ported approach MAY not be the best for a milling saw. Heat is what kills a saw when milling and the usual approach for porting saws may not give you the power and longevity you want for milling. Just my 2 cents worth.
Read what Timberwolf says about this. Good luck.

Scott

 

[f3rr3t]

Thank you all for the input.

instead of a real aggressive port job. I think i would be better to just go in and polish and get rid of and any casting flash and round some of the sharp edges in the ports. (will have to read some of the threads about Porting and polishing on here) i did do my SBC heads but these are a new ballgame.

Also it was suggested when i re-assemble to use a gasket a few thousands thinner to bump the compression and gain alil power.

In addition would there be any negative effects to lighting the flywheel a ounce or two?

My apologies nothing i have is stock and i go overboard with modifications but i thing this is a fun project to experiment with. To bad a 56mm jug wont fit, Talk about power in a small package.

 

[mikeb1079]

i go overboard with modifications but i thing this is a fun project to experiment with

uh oh. you're doomed. chainsaw milling is one of the more mod friendly hobbies i've come across. between saws, jigs, aux oilers, guide rails, cant hooks, log lifters, trailers for logs, etc....you'll be in for some fun. plus it sounds like you're handy, which just makes matters worse. just look at bob l.
seriously though, milling is a blast and it only gets better. enjoy.

 

[BobL]

uh oh. you're doomed. chainsaw milling is one of the more mod friendly hobbies i've come across. between saws, jigs, aux oilers, guide rails, cant hooks, log lifters, trailers for logs, etc....you'll be in for some fun. plus it sounds like you're handy, which just makes matters worse. just look at bob l.
seriously though, milling is a blast and it only gets better. enjoy.

Yep he's doomed!!!

This is an indication of how bad it can get.

 

[f3rr3t]

Yep he's doomed!!!

This is an indication of how bad it can get.

That is ironic. thats the first thing i thought of putting on my saw. i robbed it off my shifter kart

 

[huskyhank]

I don't think lightening flywheels will help you any at all. If anything, good flywheel effect may make it easier to keep cutting. There's no need for quick acceleration in this game. I'd go for most power at a known safe RPM. Something you can run and run hard without a second thought.

If 42" is long enough then an Oregon bar will set you back about $100 - just call Baileys. There are some extra long GB bars on ebay from time to time. They are most often .404 but can be converted to 3/8 X .063 by changing tips. I just did this with my 60" bar.

What ever chain gage you pick, keep all your bars and chains the same. I moved to all 3/8 X .063 last time I had to order new stuff. If you have a good saw shop nearby then picking the chain they stock is a good idea. Otherwise figure on ordering enough to support your operation. I think 2 chains is the minimum - more is better if you do not have local supply.

 

[BobL]

I don't think lightening flywheels will help you any at all. If anything, good flywheel effect may make it easier to keep cutting. There's no need for quick acceleration in this game. I'd go for most power at a known safe RPM. Something you can run and run hard without a second thought.

Yeah, I agree. Mods, processes and extras such as those that reduce prolonged running temps and ease the load on the power head are where it's at for long term CS milling. For example, learning how to maintain a razor sharp efficiently cutting chain, and large efficient volume delivery aux oiler can be as beneficial to the long term cutting process as powerhead mods. I'm not saying that some mods are not useful but for a minor effort the basics should not be ignored. For example a heap of extra power on a CS mill does not increase cutting speed unless the raker depths are increased to suit.

If 42" is long enough then an Oregon bar will set you back about $100 - just call Baileys. There are some extra long GB bars on ebay from time to time. They are most often .404 but can be converted to 3/8 X .063 by changing tips. I just did this with my 60" bar.

What ever chain gage you pick, keep all your bars and chains the same. I moved to all 3/8 X .063 last time I had to order new stuff. If you have a good saw shop nearby then picking the chain they stock is a good idea. Otherwise figure on ordering enough to support your operation. I think 2 chains is the minimum - more is better if you do not have local supply.

 

[f3rr3t]

another thing i just thought of. Seeing that i will use the lumber i mill for building furniture. Im concerned about the bar oil and oil from the aux oiler soaking into the lumber and causing finishing issues