andrewspens
ArboristSite Operative
Anybody out there have an Alpine Magnum with the Solo powerhead? Just curious how they are holding up. Gotta find out somehow, since there aren't any Solo dealers around here.
Alpine Magnum / Solo combo
- Thread starter andrewspens
- Start date
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I am thinking about getting an alpine Mag. with the Stihl power head, dont know much about the solo!! Most who have PM`ed me say that they love their Alpine Mag. I figure with this I can do the smaller stumps as the larger stumps are taken by a couple guys trying to see who can go lower in price.
LXT.........
LXT.........
andrewspens
ArboristSite Operative
Just some side work for me
My day job keeps me in the office, so it's nice to get outside now and then.
BTW, the solo powerhead is 700 cheaper, that's why I am asking about it.
My day job keeps me in the office, so it's nice to get outside now and then.
BTW, the solo powerhead is 700 cheaper, that's why I am asking about it.
mckeetree
Addicted to ArboristSite
Alpine magnum is not much of a stump grinder and solo saws suck so what are you trying to do to youself ????
Curbside
ArboristSite Operative
I have an Alpine Magnum with the Husky head. I only use it when I have no choice. It is a last resort only. Not real happy with the teeth. When I use the machine I price my job with the expectation of using up a set of teeth. Have not yet been able to sharpen any as they all break off by the time the stump is done. With sharp teeth it does cut pretty good but they only last a small stump maybe two.
I have a stumpmaster, which is the original machine the alpine was copied from, its powered by a 76 stihl concrete cutter head, runs really well. The teeth are more like a standard grinder, I have a spare wheel and just change the whole wheel when the teeth get dull.
Its ideal for us as we work in a town that has terrible access and it allows us to get the whole removal job done in one trip as we just have a mount on the drawbar of my 6 inch chipper where it fits snuggly.
Today we took down a 20inch sycamore in a very confined yard which had a brick wall 2 inches behind it and was behind a foot tall brick retainer. not doable with a standard grinder.
On tuesday I ground a rata stump that was in a corner against concrete walls and was bulged over the concrete edging of the footpath. 2 companies looked at it and laughed, I got it done easily and made good money on it.
Like all gear, its only any good if you have the application for it. We all work in different environments with different situations. For me a grinder bigger than a sc130 would be worthless, I can count on one hand twice how many times this year a bucket truck would even be able to access one of our jobs, let alone be useful. One guys crucial bit of kit is anothers biggest waste of money.
Its ideal for us as we work in a town that has terrible access and it allows us to get the whole removal job done in one trip as we just have a mount on the drawbar of my 6 inch chipper where it fits snuggly.
Today we took down a 20inch sycamore in a very confined yard which had a brick wall 2 inches behind it and was behind a foot tall brick retainer. not doable with a standard grinder.
On tuesday I ground a rata stump that was in a corner against concrete walls and was bulged over the concrete edging of the footpath. 2 companies looked at it and laughed, I got it done easily and made good money on it.
Like all gear, its only any good if you have the application for it. We all work in different environments with different situations. For me a grinder bigger than a sc130 would be worthless, I can count on one hand twice how many times this year a bucket truck would even be able to access one of our jobs, let alone be useful. One guys crucial bit of kit is anothers biggest waste of money.
snowyman
The Wonder From Down Under
Stump Master
You're both back! TimberMc you never answered me, do you have this Stump Master by TP or the original?
Curbside, maybe you should change your cutter wheel so you can use 1/2" teeth, even though most people say the Alpine wheel is better, it's not working for you.
You're both back! TimberMc you never answered me, do you have this Stump Master by TP or the original?
Curbside, maybe you should change your cutter wheel so you can use 1/2" teeth, even though most people say the Alpine wheel is better, it's not working for you.
Curbside
ArboristSite Operative
Tell me more about this other wheel and teeth.
You're both back! TimberMc you never answered me, do you have this Stump Master by TP or the original?
Curbside, maybe you should change your cutter wheel so you can use 1/2" teeth, even though most people say the Alpine wheel is better, it's not working for you.
Sorry mate, didnt see the question, I have the clauds old demo grinder, its identical to the one in the pic but the powerheads older and I think the teeth are a little different. Its a great machine for what I need it for.
snowyman
The Wonder From Down Under
The one in the picture is a copy of TimberMc's, he did have 1/2 teeth on them once but changed to the ones in the pic. He's gone now [a pity, he only closed down last year & was only 15 minutes away] but the original guy is still selling them, but he's a long way from here. He doesn't have a website but I'll send you his email. Maybe I'll ring him first and see if the wheel will fit.
Plyscamp
ArboristSite Operative
Making teeth last on an Alpine is no secret, I have posted many times on this subject. We grind in rock six days a week and I have not changed a tooth on my unit in two weeks. I touch them up frequently with a 4" angle grinder.
I only use Rock Teeth and I always leave the leading edge a little rounded and make sure the little hump behind the carbide is eliminated. A sharp carbide will shatter against a rock where a rounded edge will bounce off the rock. If you don't eliminate the little hump the leading edge can not make contact with the wood.
When you encounter a rock don't try and crash through it you will destroy teeth. Instead grind down on the left and right side of the rock to free it, then tap it with the side of the wheel and it will move out of the way. I do the same thing with my SC252 and SC505.
When I bought my first unit in 1995 I had the same complaint many of you describe. I even called the Factory to see if they sold teeth by the bucket with a quantity discount. Like so many other things there is a learning curve that you will have to live through before your teeth will last.
I only use Rock Teeth and I always leave the leading edge a little rounded and make sure the little hump behind the carbide is eliminated. A sharp carbide will shatter against a rock where a rounded edge will bounce off the rock. If you don't eliminate the little hump the leading edge can not make contact with the wood.
When you encounter a rock don't try and crash through it you will destroy teeth. Instead grind down on the left and right side of the rock to free it, then tap it with the side of the wheel and it will move out of the way. I do the same thing with my SC252 and SC505.
When I bought my first unit in 1995 I had the same complaint many of you describe. I even called the Factory to see if they sold teeth by the bucket with a quantity discount. Like so many other things there is a learning curve that you will have to live through before your teeth will last.
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andrewspens
ArboristSite Operative
bump
I know there are a few out there, just can't remember who has them. Looking to buy pretty soon, just want to make the right powerhead choice.
I know there are a few out there, just can't remember who has them. Looking to buy pretty soon, just want to make the right powerhead choice.
snowyman
The Wonder From Down Under
Stump Master
Sorry, i got off track. I think I'd go with the Husky if you're just doing stumps.
Plyscamp would be the guy to ask, also Sbusta. He's had the Husky one for a couple of years, I nearly bought one after reading his posts when he bought it, but just don't really need one.
I rang the Stump master guy, his email isn't working at the moment. The one in the pic is not a copy, just a later model [Sorry Tony] I didn't know they linked up. The wheel may fit, depending on the shaft size, and he is running 3 types of teeth, but I think Plyscamp has solved Curbside's problem.
Let us know how you go. Also dust here is a problem, so the air filter is importent, you may not have that to worry about. Good luck.
Sorry, i got off track. I think I'd go with the Husky if you're just doing stumps.
Plyscamp would be the guy to ask, also Sbusta. He's had the Husky one for a couple of years, I nearly bought one after reading his posts when he bought it, but just don't really need one.
I rang the Stump master guy, his email isn't working at the moment. The one in the pic is not a copy, just a later model [Sorry Tony] I didn't know they linked up. The wheel may fit, depending on the shaft size, and he is running 3 types of teeth, but I think Plyscamp has solved Curbside's problem.
Let us know how you go. Also dust here is a problem, so the air filter is importent, you may not have that to worry about. Good luck.
Well, I have ran mine now for 2 seasons. The solo head really could use a compression release..wow that thing is a hos. But it kicks ass. For me it bogs down very little.
As far as teeth go, I really make mine last by using a pick axe to clear the area around the stump. Many times I use mine to obliterate shrub stumps in rocky landscapes. I deal with the normal wear most of the time with some chippage on the teeth after the 2nd sharpening.
I am going to get that diamond wheel and a cordless hand grinder to sharpen the teeth while they are still on the head.
As far as teeth go, I really make mine last by using a pick axe to clear the area around the stump. Many times I use mine to obliterate shrub stumps in rocky landscapes. I deal with the normal wear most of the time with some chippage on the teeth after the 2nd sharpening.
I am going to get that diamond wheel and a cordless hand grinder to sharpen the teeth while they are still on the head.
Plyscamp
ArboristSite Operative
Something I should have mentioned if you use the angle grinder to sharpen teeth on the unit. Pay attention to the wear on the hex bolts that secure the teeth. As the wheel wears so do the bolts. I have seen older units with the bolts worn so bad that the socket is to shallow for the wrench to work. At this point the bolt will have to be drilled out to get the tooth off. So look at the bolts every time you use the angle grinder.
In regards to the Husky engine I am not a fan. At one point I had one in the fleet and there is no question it cut faster than the Stihl. But after replacing 2 crankcases due severe cracking at the motor mount I gave up and converted it back to a Stihl.
In regards to the Husky engine I am not a fan. At one point I had one in the fleet and there is no question it cut faster than the Stihl. But after replacing 2 crankcases due severe cracking at the motor mount I gave up and converted it back to a Stihl.
