Anchor port-a-wrap to vehicle?

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Ghillie

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How do you guys anchor your porty to a vehicle?

I have used a tenex sling wrapped around the smooth frame of my dump trailer to anchor a speed line but want to be able to anchor to my F250.

I have the stock tow hoops/hooks on the front and I have a pintle on the back with a 2 5/16" ball on the back.

Anybody use 3" anchor/tow straps to a frame or a clevis over the ball of a hitch with the pintle down?
 
I have a big clevis I use to attatch the porty to the hooks on the front of the chip truck or to the pintle. It works great, just make sure you get a monster clevis to do the job.
 
I use a carabiner or screw link to hook to one of the D rings on my bumper, or, if I want to attach to the pintle hook I use a three strand sling I spliced. I built the same thing on front and back of the truck.
 
I have a big clevis I use to attatch the porty to the hooks on the front of the chip truck or to the pintle. It works great, just make sure you get a monster clevis to do the job.

That's what I was thinking. Get a clevis rated for at least 20k, that's the minimum for everything else I have. CMI 3/4" blocks and 3/4" stable braid, tenex slings.

The biggest biner I have is SMC X-large steel rated at 10k.
 
I use a carabiner or screw link to hook to one of the D rings on my bumper, or, if I want to attach to the pintle hook I use a three strand sling I spliced. I built the same thing on front and back of the truck.

Where did you get that bumper. That is awesome. Did it come with the hitch reciever or did you add that?
 
Whether you use your truck as an anchor or what-ever, make sure your truck is in neutral and wheels chocked. If the tranny take's a hit in the "Park" position. Then $$$$$ to fix. If your truck is your anchor, do not put the truck in" Park".
Jeff
 
i use a carabiner or screw link to hook to one of the d rings on my bumper, or, if i want to attach to the pintle hook i use a three strand sling i spliced. I built the same thing on front and back of the truck.


NOW THATS A BUMPER


attachment.php
 
Whether you use your truck as an anchor or what-ever, make sure your truck is in neutral and wheels chocked. If the tranny take's a hit in the "Park" position. Then $$$$$ to fix. If your truck is your anchor, do not put the truck in" Park".
Jeff

Good reminder. The parking pawl in most transmissions (automatic) isn't very big. I've rebuilt a few transmissions in one of my other lives and they are not a strong component, especially for taking a shock load.
 
Where did you get that bumper. That is awesome. Did it come with the hitch reciever or did you add that?

I built both. The hitch is patterned roughly off of ones that are commercially available. Your truck would be easier to build a bumper and hitch for. Not as many curves and angles in the body and frame as there is on a Dodge.
 
How much in steel and labor ya figure Bearcreek? Nice work too!

I remember going down the toboggan run at Bearcreek. They had good steaks too! Shame the place burned down.
 
How much in steel and labor ya figure Bearcreek? Nice work too!

I remember going down the toboggan run at Bearcreek. They had good steaks too! Shame the place burned down.

All the steel was scrounged so im not real sure about that. Im guessing it would take about 6 hours or so to build if I was doing it again. The first time I fab something like that it always takes longer cause I spend half the time standing there looking at it making blueprints and design changes in my head. Im a tree guy, not a fabricator, so I imagine somebody that was a pro and had all the right equipment could do it quicker.
 
i've done similar to lift or pretension line SOFTLY with truck, then be able to lower, thru Porty. We've even placed a 1 ton truck pull thru a 3:1 to lift where we couldn't wriggle a crane into, then lower thru Porty. If using like this with rope at upward angle, it is best to place a pulley block low as redirect so that the line tension and angle can only pull across on truck, not upwards (making truck 'lighter'). This also could buffer recoil if break was on another leg than one truck is pulling.

We even rig a railroad tie to half float or full drag behind rear tires as instant chock / lock (better on softer ground) against backward travel, but allowing forward travel fairly. Failing that men with ropes pulling same up behind tires after truck pulls forward. Front bumper pulls are good too if you don't have to watch behind you, and then can better watch the full show as you pull backwierds, but can be more dangerous if line were to snap, but not at your end etc.
 
Here how I hook a portawrap to my truck. Photo taken in the shop with the hitch insert in a vice.

attachment.php

I do it that way all the time. Pretty sure I use the same size clevis. Works VERY well. I like that it helps keep the rope out of the bottom of the tree. I usually hook it on the back of the bucket truck.

-Matt
 
i've done similar to lift or pretension line SOFTLY with truck, then be able to lower, thru Porty. We've even placed a 1 ton truck pull thru a 3:1 to lift where we couldn't wriggle a crane into, then lower thru Porty. If using like this with rope at upward angle, it is best to place a pulley block low as redirect so that the line tension and angle can only pull across on truck, not upwards (making truck 'lighter'). This also could buffer recoil if break was on another leg than one truck is pulling.

We even rig a railroad tie to half float or full drag behind rear tires as instant chock / lock (better on softer ground) against backward travel, but allowing forward travel fairly. Failing that men with ropes pulling same up behind tires after truck pulls forward. Front bumper pulls are good too if you don't have to watch behind you, and then can better watch the full show as you pull backwierds, but can be more dangerous if line were to snap, but not at your end etc.

The truck will only be used as an anchor. I do not plan on pulling with the porty rigged up.

I love the idea about the floating chocks!
 
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