another chainsaw milling question????

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hdtech

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I haven't seen a straight up answer to this so I hope not waste anyone's time with this. but what do you set the rakers or depth gauges (whichever you wish to call them) at for milling. is it the same .025-.030 as a regular chain or is it different. I'm using a 3/8-.063 Carlton ripping chain and right out of the box it seems to be making more dust than chips. I know that's not good for regular chisel chain but kinda new to the chainsaw milling. this is also my first post here. have been a member for a few months mostly reading and gathering everyone's knowledge to keep from asking to many ignorant questions.
 
i dont get reg chips milling either ,if you did get reg chips, your boards would be very fiber pulled and ugly ,my rakers are at 30 and my chain grabs a little milling ,if i hit a knot milling i will see some chips then ,i usually throw a wedge in where i make my beginning rip a couple feet into the cut so the board doesnt sag onto my bar
 
I haven't seen a straight up answer to this so I hope not waste anyone's time with this. but what do you set the rakers or depth gauges (whichever you wish to call them) at for milling.

It does not matter whether you are milling or crosscutting but rakers should not be set to a constant depth but to what is called a constant angle. This angle is between the top of the raker the cutting tip of the cutter and the wood. The reason for this is as the cutter wears and gullet gets wider, using a constant depth like 0.030" will change this angle and the cutter will not be able to grab as much wood. Eventually CS operators who do not know about this give up on the chain and buy another one whereas those who know about this can keep their chains cutting until what's left of the cutters start to break off.

More details are provided in this post http://www.arboristsite.com/milling-saw-mills/93458-8.htm#post4107285 (look at the section on RAKER ANGLE)

If you look on the Baileys website you will see some raker depth gauges are available with different depth settings in steps of 0.005" from 0.020 right up to 0.050 but there is no need to pay out for a complete set of these.

The easiest way to do set a raker angle is to use a Carlton File-O-Plate or similar raker setting devices. The problem with this is the angle that is generates is too wussy (~4.5º) and I recommend an angle of 6º as a starting angle since this is how new chains are made. There is no single angle that is best. For small softwoods using a big saw angles as high as ~7.5º or higher can be used. For really hard big woods and smaller saws 4.5º might be all they can manage. Just be aware that at very high angles the saw will be very grabby and produce more kickback (not an issue for milling), more vibe, and a small increase in B&C wear.

An easy way to check your raker angles is to measure your gullet width and raker depth with a vernier calliper.
For a 6º raker angle the raker depth should be 1/10th of the gullet width.

An even easier way is to use a Digital Angle finder (DAF)
rakersetting.m4v - YouTube

Of course I don't do this every time I touch the rakers, I just check them every dozen or so times I touch up, in between I will swipe the rakers by eye a couple of times after every second or third touch up.

Using a constant raker angle means you don't need to worry about the cutters being the same length. I'm also not fussed about getting the exact same raker angle - usually somewhere between 6 and 7 degrees seems to work.

Every CS operator I know that tries this method continues to use it as it enables chains to last a lot longer and to cut more efficiently than the constant depth raker method.
 
thank you now that is helpful. I've seen your video before but didn't quite understand it. there was no explanation to it.
 
Welcome to the site. No dumb questions here, if you don't understand, ask away. I don't mill all that much. Usually when I find a nicely spalted log. I use plain old Stihl chain right off the roll at my local Stihl dealer. I just tell him how many drag links and take what he hands me. I also use the same bars and chains for bucking my firewood, so I sharpen it just like I've always done. I've got an old 100 cc Homelite and it cuts about as fast as I can walk, so I'm happy. My slabs may be a little rougher than milling chain, but nothing the plainer doesn't knock off in a few passes. I plan on retiring from my retirement job in 2 years and then I'll take the time to learn how to use dedicated milling chain, and I'll be asking all the questions you are, Joe.
 
I guess I should have stated what I'm using at the beginning. I just bought an Alaskan mk III And I have a ms 660 with a 36" bar that I bought from a pawn shop a while back with the intention of using it just to mill. I've been collecting logs from folks that I see cutting them down on there property. I go and ask what they are doin with them and most times they will give them to me hell most of the time they will help me load them with their tractor which makes this even better. some are dead cause we've had a few years of drought here in texas. so those I have been saving for practice getting my technique down. the only problem is there is it that much veriety around me. mostly southern yellow pine sweet gum and red oak. don't have any plans on what to do with the slabs I've cut so far but that is what makes it fun. no plan just see what I get and then seeing what it can become. I gotta say from the first one I cut open and saw that pretty grain this has become very addicting.
 
thank you now that is helpful. I've seen your video before but didn't quite understand it. there was no explanation to it.

Sorry there is no explanation. I posted it there in 2009? after lengthy discussions about how to do this on the CS forum. I just needed somewhere to put the video because I referred to it in a lot of my posts on sharpening.

There is a lengthy technical discussion on progressive depth raker setting in a sticky in the Equipment Forums/Hot Saws/Chain Sharpening forum.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chain-sharpening/114624.htm
 
Welcome to the site. No dumb questions here, if you don't understand, ask away. I don't mill all that much. Usually when I find a nicely spalted log. I use plain old Stihl chain right off the roll at my local Stihl dealer. I just tell him how many drag links and take what he hands me. I also use the same bars and chains for bucking my firewood, so I sharpen it just like I've always done. I've got an old 100 cc Homelite and it cuts about as fast as I can walk, so I'm happy. My slabs may be a little rougher than milling chain, but nothing the plainer doesn't knock off in a few passes. I plan on retiring from my retirement job in 2 years and then I'll take the time to learn how to use dedicated milling chain, and I'll be asking all the questions you are, Joe.

No dumb questions? Good, what's a spalted log? Online dictionary doesn't know and neither do I. Thanks

Nick
 
No dumb questions? Good, what's a spalted log? Online dictionary doesn't know and neither do I. Thanks

Spalting - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

One of the craziest saplings I have heard about happens in Tasmanian Black Heart Sassafrass where one fungus grows in from the roots while the other comes in from the leaves and where the two meet its "party time" and one fungus defends itself against the other and the timber can end up with black, green, brown and purple streaks through it.
 
to best answer that question google "spalting". it's a fungus that grows in dead trees mostly and can create some beautiful and desirable figure.
 

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