Another Husky.

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doc874

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Well the 359 is still acting up, installed new carb kit and new crank seals as well as tightening all case screws , replacing flywheel and intake bellows etc... The saw will start and run high revs "sometimes", it will idle normally on occasion and when i try to adjust H & L screws it will react with high revs or die outright without even turning the screws at all!! It has a new piston and rings and the cylinder was lightly honed. "Sooooooooooooo", what the H--L could it be other than the carb is scre---d???? This is certainly becoming a candidate for a boat anchor.:angry2: :angry2: :dizzy:
 
You got a bad case of air leak at first sight.Even if you replace seals and such,FIRST have your saw air pressured to be sure 100 %.Could be also a pinched or small hole in fuel hose leaning out your mixture.I dont understand the flywheel replacement,its not related to your problem .
 
Well the 359 is still acting up, installed new carb kit and new crank seals as well as tightening all case screws , replacing flywheel and intake bellows etc... The saw will start and run high revs "sometimes", it will idle normally on occasion and when i try to adjust H & L screws it will react with high revs or die outright without even turning the screws at all!! It has a new piston and rings and the cylinder was lightly honed. "Sooooooooooooo", what the H--L could it be other than the carb is scre---d???? This is certainly becoming a candidate for a boat anchor.:angry2: :angry2: :dizzy:

Sounds like the kit did not fix the carb, simple as that. I know many toss in kits and think that should fix it right up but alot of times a kit will not fix a bad carb. Before going any farther on that saw check the choke flap. If the rod the flap sit on has worn loose in the carb housing the carb is shot, there is no fixing it.
 
You got a bad case of air leak at first sight.Even if you replace seals and such,FIRST have your saw air pressured to be sure 100 %.Could be also a pinched or small hole in fuel hose leaning out your mixture.I dont understand the flywheel replacement,its not related to your problem .

Fylwheel replacement because saw had a partially sheared key when i rec'd it. Not a reason due to current problem though. Haven't done a pressure test yet but its coming this week. I will check fuel line etc... Thanks for the advice i did change the impulse hose with no effect. I did also order another carb, should be here this week also if none of that than i'm stumped.
 
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The problem is it is a Husky , nuff said :hmm3grin2orange: Sorry I couln't resist that one. You do have an airleak somewhere, find that and you should have a good saw and I use that word good lightly. I have never had luck with a Husky so i am prejudice.

Larry
 
Fylwheel replacement because saw had a partially sheared key when i rec'd it. Not a reason due to current problem though. Haven't done a pressure test yet but its coming this week. I will check fuel line etc... Thanks for the advice i did change the impulse hose with no effect. I did also order another carb, should be here this week also if none of that than i'm stumped.

Seems you have done alot of work to that saw. Frustrating as hell when after all that work she doesn't run right. Word of advice to you, no point in getting mad. You have put to much time in it to give up now. Cool down and think twice at all the work you have put in that saw. Its your job to show the saw who is boss. Getting upset makes the saw bossing you, can't have that. A simple pressure/vac test will reveal any airs leaks. If there are none I'm betting that new carb will have it running just fine. Patience conquers all my friend...
 
Seems you have done alot of work to that saw. Frustrating as hell when after all that work she doesn't run right. Word of advice to you, no point in getting mad. You have put to much time in it to give up now. Cool down and think twice at all the work you have put in that saw. Its your job to show the saw who is boss. Getting upset makes the saw bossing you, can't have that. A simple pressure/vac test will reveal any airs leaks. If there are none I'm betting that new carb will have it running just fine. Patience conquers all my friend...

Thanks Thall. I'm a-gonna-win-this-bout!! Here are some pics of the offending beast and its accomplice that came to me (free) with what felt like 500lbs of compression. Drained the bar oil from piston and am awaiting parts for oil pump and impulse hose. Great spark. Gotta love those Stihls.:laugh:

Ps: note the 5mm screw insert in the pump!
 
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I think you need to buy the 290 Stihl you were talked out of purchasing, and send that ^%#*^)(U* Husky to me for proper disposal.


Thanks Lou, will consider that For a nominal fee of course.:ices_rofl:
 
The problem is it is a Husky , nuff said :hmm3grin2orange: Sorry I couln't resist that one. You do have an airleak somewhere, find that and you should have a good saw and I use that word good lightly. I have never had luck with a Husky so i am prejudice.

Larry
There sure is more stihl problems in threads than husky
and I have not had luck with newer sthils since 028 09 084 were
new I would buy them if they made them saws today.
 
Well the 359 is still acting up, installed new carb kit and new crank seals as well as tightening all case screws , replacing flywheel and intake bellows etc... The saw will start and run high revs "sometimes", it will idle normally on occasion and when i try to adjust H & L screws it will react with high revs or die outright without even turning the screws at all!! It has a new piston and rings and the cylinder was lightly honed. "Sooooooooooooo", what the H--L could it be other than the carb is scre---d???? This is certainly becoming a candidate for a boat anchor.:angry2: :angry2: :dizzy:

Doc,

The factory carb on the 359s are known to act up. Check the pop-off pressure on your needle. Your problem is in the carb, the rest of the saw is likely FINE. Source a new carb, or set the pop-off correctly and you will have a nice running saw. I bet a 372 carb would wake that saw up. There is a fella around running a 66 Stihl carb on his 359, and another fella running a 395 carb on his 359. Maybe drop Fred (aka Mr.) a PM about the 359 carb and direct him to this thread, he will likely help you out!

Josh
 
There sure is more stihl problems in threads than husky
and I have not had luck with newer sthils since 028 09 084 were
new I would buy them if they made them saws today.

i got given an old 028 from a junkyard, the guy was going to sell me another saw but sold it to someone else before i came back with cash so he gave me the 028,
30yrs old, no chainbreak or anything like this i take carb apart clean all the bits, duct tape up the handle ( i wouldn't recomend doing that tho), put in fuel & oil, and she starts as soon as i figure out how to work the choke. One of the shearers working in shed next door show me how to tension chain and approximates hl mix for me ("two turns out, i think") saw runs great, guess stihl will in another 30years if i keep it looked after,
now i buy husky because they're cheaper and you can get on internet.
and the arb saws look better. (important, really)
 
Doc,

The factory carb on the 359s are known to act up. Check the pop-off pressure on your needle. Your problem is in the carb, the rest of the saw is likely FINE. Source a new carb, or set the pop-off correctly and you will have a nice running saw. I bet a 372 carb would wake that saw up. There is a fella around running a 66 Stihl carb on his 359, and another fella running a 395 carb on his 359. Maybe drop Fred (aka Mr.) a PM about the 359 carb and direct him to this thread, he will likely help you out!

Josh

Thanks Josh. I have a newer (used carb coming hopefully tomorrow i found on fleabay.) Will try that, if no luck, will contact "MR" and look for either a 066 carb or 372 carb. The saw does flood-out, sometimes, and i've tried to adjust the needle by just a hair each time. Luckily the saws carb is flipped over so i don't have to remove it each time. I will get-her running right, eventually. I have also considered buying a new piston assembly because the saw was used and i do not know history. I don't own a caliper to measure bore diameter although, piston seems a good fit, no slap etc... I also tried the rope drop test and it seems to be great, it goes down very slowly by increments of flywheel turns
 
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