ironhead
ArboristSite Member
Just wondering if anyone else collects axes and hatchets. What is the best way to clean rust off of them and keep it off?
Anyone collect axes or hatchets
- Thread starter ironhead
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Sprig
Addicted to ArboristSite
yep agree with blis and if you have to wire brush em oil 1st makes no dust
The only axes I seem to collect are the ones needing handles With one exception, a turn of the century flat one side beam axe (no not a collectors item they made millions of em). I have several hatchets and a nice '50's double blade I use for limbing as its quicker and quieter than using the saw, and oh, nobody but me ever gets their mitts on it
The only axes I seem to collect are the ones needing handles
With one exception, a turn of the century flat one side beam axe (no not a collectors item they made millions of em). I have several hatchets and a nice '50's double blade I use for limbing as its quicker and quieter than using the saw, and oh, nobody but me ever gets their mitts on it 
Rust Removal Using Electrolysis
This is an interesting and different way of removing rust.
http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
opcorn:
This is an interesting and different way of removing rust.
http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
opcorn:
Timberhauler
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have an uncle that actually has the largest collection of antique tools in the southeast....Many of these include axes and he has a ton of old cross cut saws....Some of which look brand new.I should see him this weekend,if I do I'll ask him what he reccomends and PM ya'.
Xtra
ArboristSite Operative
I did work for an old timer and he was showing me some old antiques hand saws in a shed. There were a bunch of handles sticking out of a kinda flower box filled with sand. He filled the box with sand and then pour oil into it, then he'd put his tools into the sand. Then were all in great condtion . . . mostly old shovels, trowels, and rakes.
Woodie
"Cap'n Bullcrap'n"
blackoak
Addicted to ArboristSite
Besides tinkering with saws, old tools is next on my list of hobbies. There are several ways to derust rusty tool. One involves a low amp battery charger and water mixed with washing soda. I'm not sure on the spelling but it is called electrolic derusting. Try a google search there is plenty of info out there for this method. You can also use muratic acid, but be very careful and do not breath the fumes or get it on you. A good stiff wire wheel on a bench grinder works good then a coat of linnseed oil and depending if you are going to display them you can spray it with polyurethane. If you are going to use the tool don't waste your time with the poly because it won't stay on, but it sure makes it look nice.
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blackoak
Addicted to ArboristSite
Besides tinkering with saws, old tool is next on my list of hobbies. There are several ways to derust rusty tool. One involves a low amp battery charger and water mixed with washing soda. I'm not sure on the spelling but it is called hydrolic derusting. Try a google search there is plenty of info out there for this method. You can also use muratic acid, but be very careful and do not breath the fumes or get it on you. A good stiff wire wheel on a bench grinder works good then a coat of linnseed oil and depending if you are going to display them you can spray it with polyurethane. If you are going to use the tool don't waste your time with the poly because it won't stay on, but it sure makes it look nice.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Phosphoric acid is one of the best ways to remove rust... Converts the red rust to a dark gray iron phospate. You can buy it as "rust-mort" in a gell-like form, or by the gallon for a hardware store. I've used it on many woodworking tools, chainsaw mufflers etc..
From Wikipedia:
Rust removal
Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron or steel tools or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called Naval jelly. As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.) After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, most durably by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats.
From Wikipedia:
Rust removal
Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron or steel tools or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called Naval jelly. As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.) After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, most durably by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats.
oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
I've redone many an old plane as well as other tools. Electrolysis works well, but can leave a whitish cast to the iron. However, when they are really bad, sometimes you don't have a lot of choice in the matter. Otherwise, I usually take a light duty wire brush after them. Haven't tried Naval Jelly, but it would probably work fairly well too.
I've got the itch again to finish up some of my unfinished planes now...thanks a lot. I thought I was "cured"...
Mark
I've got the itch again to finish up some of my unfinished planes now...thanks a lot. I thought I was "cured"...
Mark
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
IMO, navil jelly just plain sux!
Themethod that Urbicide linked to (if its the one I think it is) uses Molasses and is completely biodegradable and safe on your skin.
It seems to be the prefered way of the old time equipment restorers due to the ability to mix up litterally bathtubs full of the stuff for engine blocks and such and just pour it in the weeds when your done. Or you can save it and use it over and over.
The major draw back is that it stinks after a while and gets riper with age.
Themethod that Urbicide linked to (if its the one I think it is) uses Molasses and is completely biodegradable and safe on your skin.
It seems to be the prefered way of the old time equipment restorers due to the ability to mix up litterally bathtubs full of the stuff for engine blocks and such and just pour it in the weeds when your done. Or you can save it and use it over and over.
The major draw back is that it stinks after a while and gets riper with age.
ironhead
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for all of the replys. I tried a wire wheel on my grinder on one hatchet and it works good but seems to wear down the lettering and embossing a little so i stopped after doing one. I think i will try the electrolsis on one and see how it works. I will take some pics during the process and post after i'm done.
Old Mac Guy
ArboristSite Operative
Besides chainsaws... and old axes and hatchets... I collect railroad date nails... They're made of steel and, after maybe 60-90 years lying out in the weather in or out of a railroad tie, come in pretty rusted-up (and often with lots of oxidized creosote solution). An old-time collector told me about soaking them overnight in simple white vinegar. The first time I did it, I couldn't believe the result... like new from the nail-makers... The vinegar can leave a thin white residue on the surface... easily brushed off... or a dip in light oil and wipe with a clean rag... I haven't tried it yet on an old axe head, but I'm sure it will clean 'em up just like it does the RR date nails... Cheap at $1.00 a gallon...
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
This is what I do, shrub of most of the rust (but not all), then cover the axehead whit Bestial flax (linen oil), and burn it whit a gas flame. After this treatment they look almost new, and they don't rust so easily anymore.
ASEMASTER
ArboristSite Operative
about 6 hrs into this
I use this in the field,that's a reflection on the axe head, it's the only picture I had . used a da sander with 1200 paper and the a buffer with white rughe. protect it with a dose of wd40.
I use this in the field,that's a reflection on the axe head, it's the only picture I had . used a da sander with 1200 paper and the a buffer with white rughe. protect it with a dose of wd40.
ironhead
ArboristSite Member
That sounds easy and cheap.I'll try it. Thanks! Gary
muriatic or hydrochloric acid HCI
it's one of the best rust removers around. we used at a plating shop I used to work at long ago.
note after a acid treatment metal is chemically bare and needs protection.
really like old double bit axes. my fav is an old Keen Kutter double bit axe.
it's one of the best rust removers around. we used at a plating shop I used to work at long ago.
note after a acid treatment metal is chemically bare and needs protection.
really like old double bit axes. my fav is an old Keen Kutter double bit axe.
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MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
I do have a small collection of Norwegian knife and axes. The axes in the photo are copy from Viking axes that have been found here in Norway.
