Anyone got a 16" bar for a Stihl they want to trade?

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Lawn Masters

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I would like to have a 16" bar for my 038Mag. I'll trade my Genuine Stihl Rollomatic ES 20" bar for one. this bar is in great shape, save for a little normal wear and tear.

Anyone who has a 16" bar thats 3/8 pitch, .050 gauge they'd like to trade, please let me know.

I totally prefer 16" over a 20" on this thing since my Mac packs the BIG bar.
 
I would think an 18" bar on a 038 would be the smallest you should go. 16" bar on that much motor seems to be a waste of engine power. Just my opinion.
 
I always used a 16" bar on 066's when I was in the firewood business. More power, less filing, less rocking out and more manuverable.
John
 
John, But what was the point? A smaller, lighter saw could have pulled the chain on a 16" bar just as fast.
 
Stumper said:
John, But what was the point? A smaller, lighter saw could have pulled the chain on a 16" bar just as fast.

Hasn`t anyone else here besides John tried a short bar on a bigger powerhead for firewood? It`s the only way to go!

Sure a smaller saw will pull a 16" chain just as fast out of the cut but that`s not true when you put them both in the wood making blocks. 16s are also nice when cutting decked logs where you don`t want to cut through one log and partially into another.

Russ
 
When searching for a logical answer to a problem we should just go to the other extreme.
Example: Since it is ludicrist and ineffective to use a 16" bar on a powerhead, lets try a 4' bar because there will be no power loss or added disadvantage.
All I can say is try it, an 066 with a 16" bar is a formidable weapon in the firewood pile and will outcut anyone with a 20- 24" bar.
So there, I'm right, you guys are woodticks.
John
 
I cut with my 3120 all the time with a 20" and 10 or 11 tooth gear, depending on which one I grab. I'm just too lazy to take the clutch off after (or before) the racing season. We run a lot of bring your own stock around here in small timbers.
 
No, I haven't tried it. And yes, I can understand that a higher pin count sprocket and a short bar would cut faster on the big saw. With standard tooth counts I have never noticed a 90cc saw being appreciably faster than a 70 cc saw in wood under 20". I also have not found that a 50 cc saw cuts 10 inch wood significantly slower equipped with a 20 inch bar compared to a 16". I dislike stooping and straining my back. If I have a lot of 16inch wood to cut then a 4cid/70cc class saw with a 20"bar seems about right-why drag extra weight and why spend all day hunched over? Of course I am a bit taller than the Gypster. Maybe you short bar on big saw guys know something I don't-or maybe you just feel like the big saw is doing more because it works you harder. :angel:
 
I run a 20" on my 394 regularly. I don't worry about bending over--you're going to be bending over with firewood no matter how long your bar is. I like the balance with the shorter bars. And yes, there is a difference between the 272 when put next to the 394 in 16" wood.
 
Spacey- I agree with you 100%, the only guys that think their 272 is as fast in small stuff as the monsters haven't tried it out yet. The 272 (unless it's got a full woods mod) wouldn't even be close. I know that it might be a little off topic, but if you go to the races, there are engine size classes. That is because the big saws cut faster than the little (60-80cc) saws on the same size wood.
 
Okay guys if you say so. I haven't played a timed cuts game with equal length bars on different sized saws in small wood. I have run side by side with another cutter. My 268 matched his 394 (but he was running a 6 inch longer bar)> Firewood cutting ain't my thing anymore anyway. I will happily continue to reach for a 50cc class saw for sub 12" stuff and a 68cc-80cc saw for bigger stuff. Very rarely do I need a bigger saw than that. Most of my time is spent in cleanup-not sawing.
 
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