Anyone use bore cuts on crane jobs?

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Doing crane removals I often have issues with the limb wanting to twist at the last minute, due to uneven loading on the slings. I was thinking on limbs over 6" it might work better to bore cut thecenter, then release the top and bottom straps . Any thoughts?

While it might have it's uses from time to time it sounds like you just need to focus on setting your slings better. No need to get fancy with the cuts if you're communicating properly with a good op and setting the slings where they need to be for the lift.
 
While it might have it's uses from time to time it sounds like you just need to focus on setting your slings better. No need to get fancy with the cuts if you're communicating properly with a good op and setting the slings where they need to be for the lift.

Good point, Blakes, but with these crooked oaks down here getting perfect balance on the slings is tough. At the point of release is tough. I have a contract job in San Antone tuesday with an unknown op, and was looking to see if anyone had tried that method, and what results.

I
 
Good point, Blakes, but with these crooked oaks down here getting perfect balance on the slings is tough. At the point of release is tough. I have a contract job in San Antone tuesday with an unknown op, and was looking to see if anyone had tried that method, and what results.

I

If your unsure try smaller cuts at first, then see how the OP is, go from there. I have never used a borecut when using a crane though. The guy I use is an amzing OP!
 
If your unsure try smaller cuts at first, then see how the OP is, go from there. I have never used a borecut when using a crane though. The guy I use is an amzing OP!

Believe me, I will be starting small. Big pecan, back of house, new company, and new op. Half of cuts will be out of sight of operator, that's why I was looking at bore cuts, to minimize binding.
 
Never seen a bore cut used and if i ever got stuck he just moves the Boom a few inches and I'm out. Theirs only two ways I really cut it. The first is straight through. The second is to leave a small shelf if I think it's gonna come back at me when it releases.
 
For relatively stright sections you can use either a double sling or double chain choker bridle. Both will load the lift equally preventing the side kick that you get with a single tie in on straight stems. Just be aware that it will only hold while waited.

For twisted sections a 3 point lift is the only stable safe lift that won't shift. It's pretty time consuming, so I'll only use it on big takes or in critical hanging situations over power lines, houses etc. You can rig a 3 point lift with a rope on one of the points that a groundie can adjust from the ground while the lift is happening.

Most often I'll treat the crane as a static drop point and basically fall the piece on to it. Especially if the OP is impatient and tends to pre load the lift too much and create a springboard. By falling the piece onto him (we're talking inches here, not feet) you are guaranteed he wont be launching you. If the piece needs to be adjusted mid cut then I have him slew rather than rope up.

Something I've often wondered but never questioned is how the insurance split works if any damage occurs. I imagine it would come down to brass tacks aportioning liability if anything went wrong. I'm guessing that damage arising from the rigging of the piece, or the piece snapping/letting go would be my responsibility, while slewing into power lines, and defective cable/rigging/boom would be the crane company's tab. Anyone have experience on this? I'm not even sure i have crane coverage on my insuarance, but I would guess no.

Shaun
 
I always use a bypass cut,with the lower cut on the out side of the lean, the by pass holds the wood from roll and the opperator does the snap after my saw is out off and Hitched, and I give him the signal and If the crane is in a blind spot have a groundy relay signals,let the opperator know what you want him doing and how you roll, small world.View attachment 228531
Paul
 
I always use a bypass cut,with the lower cut on the out side of the lean, the by pass holds the wood from roll and the opperator does the snap after my saw is out off and Hitched, and I give him the signal and If the crane is in a blind spot have a groundy relay signals,let the opperator know what you want him doing and how you roll, small world.View attachment 228531
Paul

Too funny, Paul. I'm in Bastrop, but my boss's old neighbor has a co. In San Antonio. I'm going down to do the job for him.
 
I was in Colorado when Y'all had the big fire last fall and haven't been that way in a while, did it get the lost Pines State Forest, saw an add on craigslist austin for tree fellers and Arborist in Bastrop, are you the one on the San Morcos side on TX21 on the left, saw a tree service there, cool we are supposed to be rain free till friday night, just fog this morning, ground is saturated though rained all night fri all day sat and til daylight sunday, yea our crane opp in Colorado showed me that trick if it is leaning out do your under cut then your over bypass down stem from the under while he has tip wieght so when he loads the line for snap it sets in that snap knotch while he "stands it up" to avoid roll, swing, and shock loading, I have done it like blocking it down on small stuff with my little bucket van too cut it like I am going to block it down with a good bypass cutt then go up to center on it with the bucket to remove with out swing or bounce, does he have crane or Alomo Crane Service,
Paul
 
lol. Bore cutting a crane pick. Shelf cut is the answer to the question that way you can get yourself out of the way for the op to do his thing . Just make sure you bypass the cuts so you don't need to go back and #### around with the saw again . After the cut is made just have the op cable down a little bit to break theholding wood and then cable up and and be done with the cut and pick.
 
lol. Bore cutting a crane pick. Shelf cut is the answer to the question that way you can get yourself out of the way for the op to do his thing . Just make sure you bypass the cuts so you don't need to go back and #### around with the saw again . After the cut is made just have the op cable down a little bit to break theholding wood and then cable up and and be done with the cut and pick.

Ill 2nd that. easy and fast too
 
Good tips everyone, and thank you. I've only worked with one op, and he likes to preload the lifts. A little nervous about tomorrow, new op, new crew, big pecan. Should be an interesting day. And yes, paul, we're the guys on 21w. It's been a crazy 6 mths, but things are starting to settle down. The fire marched down 21 E through Bastrop st park, and stopped.just south of 71. I spent 2 yrs cleaning up after Ike, and this was worse.
 
My $.02 . Cable angles are my ticket not more slings. Have tension on the load , make the cut, and the piece should slowly drift away . Unless your removing big canopies then sling up.


My 1st suggestion is always get a bigger crane and pull harder.:msp_scared:
 
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