gsrsol84mm
ArboristSite Operative
That's a good point, didn't think of that at all. Sounds like a good system for non skip and go with the FF1 for the skip chain.
Anyone Using The Stihl 2 in 1 Sharpener ?
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That's a good point, didn't think of that at all. Sounds like a good system for non skip and go with the FF1 for the skip chain.
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is the same sharpener just in different colours and with Stihl written on it. I'm not sure of the pricing in the US but you probably pay $5-10 extra over Pferd for the pleasure of having one in orange and cream
In Australia the Stihl versions cost around USD$50-55.
It is about 50.00 Canadian. 34,99 €
Stihl kickin
ArboristSite Lurker
An older thread but I only stumbled onto these sharpeners a few weeks ago, must live under a rock!
Anyway I have two now, 3/8 and 3/8 piccu, I like them a lot, not foolproof but so nice to use.
Anyway I have two now, 3/8 and 3/8 piccu, I like them a lot, not foolproof but so nice to use.
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
I got mine a year before they came out here in Canada and showed them to my boss and he was sold. Once we could get them they began to fly off the shelves. On Saturdays at work I will show people how to tension chains, sharpen chains and general maintenance on the saws they have bought. Monday morning I order more of the sharpeners as they sold out.
The 2 in 1 Stihl sharpner seems over-priced too me! (but again I'm a Stihl man and everything about Stihl seems overpriced until you put it to work so as to get er dun)
Thought I could probably hand file faster with the Husky file guide but,
AND I bought the Husqvarna roller guide kit sharpner awhile back ($18) for use on some Stihl chains and no go. not even close to correct fit of the file when in the roller guide. Should have taken the saw with me to the store and matched the Husky file guide to the chain.
I do not own any Husky saws or chains so no big surprise.
I'll just keep on hand filing and keep a good spare chain handy and some worn out chains for fence rows and close to the ground cutting.
I have a Carlton chain on a Stihl 20 inch bar, .050 gauge, 72DL that is marked A1 and the Carlton site indicates to use a 7/32 file.
The drags are at .025-.028 and this chain only makes dust when trying to cut green hardwood and I doubt if it will even cut hot butter). (and I thought I was good at hand filing, but this one has got me down)
The cutter teeth are at about 3/4 new. I can see that the chain teeth has contacted a rock when looking at the top of the cutter teeth, but the teeth look sharp after hand filing????? Any ideas about what I'm overlooking? I think this is the only Carlton chain I have for use.
I replaced the chain with a Stihl chain and the saw cuts good.
Thought I could probably hand file faster with the Husky file guide but,
AND I bought the Husqvarna roller guide kit sharpner awhile back ($18) for use on some Stihl chains and no go. not even close to correct fit of the file when in the roller guide. Should have taken the saw with me to the store and matched the Husky file guide to the chain.
I do not own any Husky saws or chains so no big surprise.
I'll just keep on hand filing and keep a good spare chain handy and some worn out chains for fence rows and close to the ground cutting.
I have a Carlton chain on a Stihl 20 inch bar, .050 gauge, 72DL that is marked A1 and the Carlton site indicates to use a 7/32 file.
The drags are at .025-.028 and this chain only makes dust when trying to cut green hardwood and I doubt if it will even cut hot butter). (and I thought I was good at hand filing, but this one has got me down)
The cutter teeth are at about 3/4 new. I can see that the chain teeth has contacted a rock when looking at the top of the cutter teeth, but the teeth look sharp after hand filing????? Any ideas about what I'm overlooking? I think this is the only Carlton chain I have for use.
I replaced the chain with a Stihl chain and the saw cuts good.
I bought the FF1 on a whim thinking it might be like the husky roller guide, but was very disappointed in it.
Wont hold an accurate angle for the file and guide as there is so much slop and play in how it sits on the chain, and guides/ holds the file and plate, total waste of money.
Use the old Granberg I brought back to life with a new top bushing and chain stop piece, and use that to bring the chain back to accurate angles and then just use the basic stihl file holder to hand file in the field.
Usually file well, but towards the end of the day when the arms are tired, I loose accuracy hand filing, thus granberg out to true it back up.
Love the husky roller guide, so easy, quick, and instant good results, use it on my oregan / husky chains, wished there was one that worked on the stihl chains.
The stihl 2 in 1 is around 80 here, so waiting till I find one in a yard sale.
T
Wont hold an accurate angle for the file and guide as there is so much slop and play in how it sits on the chain, and guides/ holds the file and plate, total waste of money.
Use the old Granberg I brought back to life with a new top bushing and chain stop piece, and use that to bring the chain back to accurate angles and then just use the basic stihl file holder to hand file in the field.
Usually file well, but towards the end of the day when the arms are tired, I loose accuracy hand filing, thus granberg out to true it back up.
Love the husky roller guide, so easy, quick, and instant good results, use it on my oregan / husky chains, wished there was one that worked on the stihl chains.
The stihl 2 in 1 is around 80 here, so waiting till I find one in a yard sale.
T
The 2 in 1 Stihl sharpner seems over-priced too me! (but again I'm a Stihl man and everything about Stihl seems overpriced until you put it to work so as to get er dun)
Thought I could probably hand file fater with the Husky file guide but,
AND I bought the Husqvarna roller guide kit sharpner awhile back ($18) for use on some Stihl chains and no go. not even close to correct fit of the file when in the roller guide. Should have taken the saw with me to the store and matched the Husky file guide to the chain.
I do not own any Husky saws or chains so no big surprise.
I'll just keep on hand filing and keep a good spare chain handy and some worn out chains for fence rows and close to the ground cutting.
I have a Carlton chain on a Stihl 20 inch bar, .050 gauge, 72DL that is marked A1 and the Carlton site indicates to use a 7/32 file.
The drags are at .025-.028 and this chain only makes dust when trying to cut green hardwood and I doubt if it will even cut hot butter). (and I thought I was good at hand filing, but this one has got me down)
The cutter teeth are at about 3/4 new. I can see that the chain teeth has contacted a rock when looking at the top of the cutter teeth, but the teeth look sharp after hand filing????? Any ideas about what I'm overlooking? I think this is the only Carlton chain I have for use.
I replaced the chain with a Stihl chain and the saw cuts good.
Check the top edge of the cutter where the top and side meet, have often helped friends who have the same issue, looks sharp, but there is still damage on that edge and the chain wont cut, or starts to cut round corners as the teeth are all uneven sharpness around the chain.
My sharpening improved when I started to use my glasses to see how the cutting tooth really looked
And reading all the sharpening threads here and learning what did what, and how it all worked. Great reading and Great help.
T
Check the top edge of the cutter where the top and side meet, have often helped friends who have the same issue, looks sharp, but there is still damage on that edge and the chain wont cut, or starts to cut round corners as the teeth are all uneven sharpness around the chain.
My sharpening improved when I started to use my glasses to see how the cutting tooth really looked
And reading all the sharpening threads here and learning what did what, and how it all worked. Great reading and Great help.
T
Yes, the top edge of the cutters appears to be slightly curved downward at the leading edge from hitting a rock or nail on all the teeth. Appeared maybe I had hand sharpened the chain, stored the saw then no cut when I went for next use age.
I'll look at the cutter teeth close with a magnafying glass. Looks like I might have to sacrifice about little more than 1/16 inch of each cutter to get a sharp clean top edge. I have a Granberg sharpener that clamps onto the bar that I rarely use, think I'll dig it out and make all the cutters exactly the same instead of hand filing. The chain just makes dust instead of chips, does not cut sideways or circles, probably because all the cutter have the same top of the cutter damage.
First time I've seen a almost new chain that I could not make cut good. (just when I thought I was good at hand sharping)Thankful that I was not doing the sharpening on this one for someone else and charging them a fee.
Sometimes you need to remove quite a bit of tooth to get back past the damage, have a close look, that should show you whats happening there.
Hurts your brain removing so much material from a new chain after hitting a rock, star dropper, insert any non cuttable object here
Then double check your rakers, and you should be good to go.
T
Hurts your brain removing so much material from a new chain after hitting a rock, star dropper, insert any non cuttable object here
Then double check your rakers, and you should be good to go.
T
Sometimes you need to remove quite a bit of tooth to get back past the damage, have a close look, that should show you whats happening there.
Hurts your brain removing so much material from a new chain after hitting a rock, star dropper, insert any non cuttable object here
Then double check your rakers, and you should be good to go.
T
You were correct. Close exam revealed that the top of ALL 72 of the Carlton chains cutter teeth was actually hit so hard they were curled slightly down which resulted in the hand file being held down too low in the tooth by the curl when hand filing and the very top of the cutters not getting a sharp edge.
I got my old rarely used grandberg dug out and set up on the bar and had to remove lots of material on each cutter to get them restored to useable and rakers did not need any removed yet. The chain now gets a good bite and cuts real good.
Took some time and patience dressing up all 72 of the teeth. (but another lesson learned) Suspect chain had contacted a rock or ??? in a tree stump.
A 2 in 1 Stihl guide might have corrected such if it is type that will hold the file at the proper height when sharpening, but I've seen some of the file guides that rest on top of rakers and holds the file too high for proper sharpening IF THE RAKERS height ARE NOT filed down first. (file guide is being held too high in the tooth due to rakers too high for worn cutter teeth and the file is actually dulling the chain.)
My wood cutting buddy uses the Stihl two in one exclusively to keep his chains sharp and cutting properly, they really work for him as he is not a really proficient with free hand sharpening. I will see if he will drop by and post his findings, good or bad with this tool. I just keep on free hand filing, too old and stubborn to give up something that has taken me more than half my life to learn how to do well.
Same here about just keep on hand filing.: Due to FREE hand filing without any file guides this is first time I've used or needed my old clamp on Granberg in several years.
If I were in the woods every day and needed to sharpen my chains quite often I might consider the $80 Stihl 2 in 1 after reading several reviews.
If I am in the shop or any place with a vice I will gladly clamp the bar, chain and saw in it but otherwise I can and will file a chain anywhere. I prefer to find a solid reasonably flat surface to rest the saw on and a shim around 1.5" to place under the nose of the bar, that keeps the chain relatively stable.
mgwebb
New Member
Does the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpener work right on Husky chains? I don't know, but it is possible that the rakers are different enough to make it less valuable. Of course the file sizes and angles should be the same regardless of what guide is used, right?
BTW, I've used this guide when sharpening my Stihl MS391. Wow! What a difference! Better than my previous guided sharpening, better than the grinder, and better than the cutting when new.
BTW, I've used this guide when sharpening my Stihl MS391. Wow! What a difference! Better than my previous guided sharpening, better than the grinder, and better than the cutting when new.
Stihl kickin
ArboristSite Lurker
I was pretty surprised how well they work, I've always used the Stihl metal file guide and while that works well this 2 in 1 is a step up with a few features that just make the job a little easier, neither are idiot proof though, as for the husky chain I don't know about all of them but it works on 3/8 LP semi chisel ok as that's what's on my 280TS at present and the 2 in 1 touched it up nicely, cuts well for such a little saw.
mgwebb
New Member
I haven't yet had an opportunity to try it on Husky saws, but I have three of them as well as two Stihls.
The guide doesn't care what saw/chain you use it on. As long as you are using the right guide for the right chain. 3/8, 3/8 picco or low pro or .325.
I use them for touch ups in the field. Primarily because it keeps the rakers filed down in relation to the height of the cutters. After 5 or so sharpenings with the 2 n 1, the angles get reset on the grinder. I used to free hand in the field, and still can, but I keeping the rakers consistent WHILE touching up the teeth is what keeps me using it.
I use them for touch ups in the field. Primarily because it keeps the rakers filed down in relation to the height of the cutters. After 5 or so sharpenings with the 2 n 1, the angles get reset on the grinder. I used to free hand in the field, and still can, but I keeping the rakers consistent WHILE touching up the teeth is what keeps me using it.
This one is not mentioned in the instruction book or owner guide manual.
AND on a chain that needs sharpened and has about 1/2 of the cutter tooth length consumed if the rakers height are not filed down first before using the TYPE OF file guide like the Oregon 25894 the guide is holding the file up too high on the tooth when filing and the chain won't cut properly. (and the more you file the chain with the rakers too high with these type file guides the duller the chain will get)
But a Stihl 2 in 1 files down the rakers at same time as the cutter is being sharpened per their advertisement.
AND on a chain that needs sharpened and has about 1/2 of the cutter tooth length consumed if the rakers height are not filed down first before using the TYPE OF file guide like the Oregon 25894 the guide is holding the file up too high on the tooth when filing and the chain won't cut properly. (and the more you file the chain with the rakers too high with these type file guides the duller the chain will get)
But a Stihl 2 in 1 files down the rakers at same time as the cutter is being sharpened per their advertisement.
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I kinda like to see what kinda mess I'm making of the job as I make it.
That tool looks like it gonna make a flat raker but I suppose it's no big deal.
On 2nd thought maybe one of those would make me a better semi chisel filer.
That tool looks like it gonna make a flat raker but I suppose it's no big deal.
On 2nd thought maybe one of those would make me a better semi chisel filer.
Ive noticed no issues with "flat" rakers for firewood cutting.
