ArborPro Narrow Kerf bars

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IchWarriorMkII

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Im pawing through my new Bailey's catolouge, and I see these bars... I think Im in the market for a new bar for my 353 saw. These show as very light, and Im looking at buying some WoodsmanPro Narrow Kerf chain loops for the saw as well, combined this would be a good setup I think.

But will it run 'regular' kerf chain as well?

Looking at having some good full chisel chain on hand for the clean wood if I go attack some Douglas firs in the high country this summer... and I don't see any narrow kerf full chisel anywhere.
 
I just used WoodsmanPro NK20 Narrow Kerf .325 chain for the first time on some small pines with my 346XP with a Oregon MicroLite narrow kerf bar. Wow, I am totally impressed. It was incredibly fast and kept a good edge. I've been using 95VP with very good results, but I believe the NK20 is a step up in speed.

I'm a little disappointed in the WoodsmanPro chain info, however. I have found the advertised angles to be off from reality on several different of their chains. I have to set up my grinder and "find" the appropriate angle rather than using the specified angles. Never had that particular problem with Oregon chain.

I don't know for sure about using standard chain on a narrow kerf bar, but my guess is in isn't a good idea in that you will tend to torque the already thin rails more than desirable given the chain is wider and unsupported on the edges.
 
Ive run both the 95VP and the 20NK on my 5100. Both perform well. I agree the 35 degree vs 30 degree is a slight annoyance. I sharpen both at 30 degrees.
 
I put an 18 inch ArborPro Narrow Kerf bar and WoodsmanPro Narrow Kerf chain on my Stihl 029 Farm Boss. I used to run a 20 inch Stihl FB bar and RM2 (.325) chain on it. It definitely cuts quite a bit faster with the 18" NK set up. I always kind of thought the 20 b&c was a little to much for the 029 anyway's. With the 18" NK b&c my saw kind of feels like my friends 029 with a 16" Stihl b&c. I lost a lot of weight in the front of the saw. Feels pretty good now.

The thing I'm worried about is the NK bar flops back and forth like a diving board with the slightest bit of movement. I can't believe how bad it is when I start the saw. It whips back and forth like you wouldn't believe. I don't know if this will be a problem when I start cutting a lot of big wood or not. I guess we'll see.

My next saw is probably going to be a Husky 353 with a 16 inch b&c (if I don't just go up to a MS361 or 357XP :D). I'm not going to put the ArborPro Narrow Kerf bar on the 353. I like it with Husky bar, that's just me. Good luck!
 
Some expressed worry over the very flexible ArborPro bars. Does anyone know how the Oregon Micro-lite Pro bars compare in durability? I am thinking of trying the NK, and Oregon is the only one to manufacture a narrow kerf bar for the Stihl 025.
 
Some expressed worry over the very flexible ArborPro bars. Does anyone know how the Oregon Micro-lite Pro bars compare in durability? I am thinking of trying the NK, and Oregon is the only one to manufacture a narrow kerf bar for the Stihl 025.
Ed , I have a ArborPro and a MicroLite bar for my 45cc Solo . I think the ArborPro is a stronger bar , not as flexable .
 
I also experienced the same "diving board" vibration effect that was very uncomfortable with a 16" Arbor Pro bar and 20 nk chain. I kept the chain and switched to a Windsor Speed Tip bar and problem was solved. I think the bar is just to flimsy.

044, ms260
 
Cool, good to know. I think maybe I will try the MicroLite Pro when I wear out my current set up. Heard too many good things about the NK series on this and other threads. Starting to get that itch to spend money. I better get busy and cut some wood.
 
I have had no flexing issues with my Norwegian made Husky NK bars, but admittedly the longest ones I have used are just 15"......
 
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My Microlite Pro bar works very well. Never had any problems with the flexing on either 20NK or 95VP with either the 16" or the 20" bar on the 346XP. I like these bars very much, although the tip isn't replaceable. You can remove the sprocket, but it's too much of a hassle IMO. Just crushed the nose on one of my 20" bars and couldn't get it straight enough to run. Had to trash it.

I found a sale a year ago for 20" Microlite Pro's for I believe $16 each and picked up two of them. Haven't seen them that cheap again.
 
I also experienced the same "diving board" vibration effect that was very uncomfortable with a 16" Arbor Pro bar and 20 nk chain. I kept the chain and switched to a Windsor Speed Tip bar and problem was solved. I think the bar is just to flimsy.

044, ms260

The arbor pro bars suck. Diving board is about right. Microlite pros are good.
 
Im pawing through my new Bailey's catolouge, and I see these bars... I think Im in the market for a new bar for my 353 saw. These show as very light, and Im looking at buying some WoodsmanPro Narrow Kerf chain loops for the saw as well, combined this would be a good setup I think.

But will it run 'regular' kerf chain as well?

Looking at having some good full chisel chain on hand for the clean wood if I go attack some Douglas firs in the high country this summer... and I don't see any narrow kerf full chisel anywhere.

No, in a Narrow Kerf bar you can't run "regular" kerf chain :blob2:
 
Most .325 chains from Oregon and Stihl are made in .050 - they are just not offered in Norway.........:angry: :angry:

The cutters are the same as on the larger gauges.

Maybe I'm really confused here :confused:
But I have Husqvarna and Jonsered chains and bars .325 in "narrow" kerf .050 and in "regular" kerf .058. But I don't think that I will try one .058 chain in a .050 bar :eek:
 

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