Can't hardly believe how many older packages neglect to tell such important things.
Most chains will have that information (pitch, gauge, DL count)
somewhere on the package, although not always easy to find. I agree that many could do a better job.
'Consumer' packages tend to be '
dumbed down' a little, because all that information can confuse some people.
For example, Oregon uses a Letter / Number system to simplify things for folks who only buy a limited amount of chain.
S56 is easier for most people to remember that the pitch, gauge, and drive link count. But if you know that '
S' means '
3/8, low profile, 0.050 gauge' chain, then you know that '
S56' is 56 drive links of that.
Each company also uses stamped (but different) codes to identify their chains. A few charts are attached. I use these for reference.
So far that is what I have needed to know. I've got a dozen chains that I have no clear idea what saw and bar they were made for.
Sometimes, you get a non-standard, or other brand chain, where you have to identify using calipers, etc. This is where a little knowledge helps.
Sure - and I can count the drive links too.
Yes. Often. Sometimes they will be different by a single drive link, and that means it will not fit some bar / saw /sprocket combinations.
This is a handy dandy little tool.
I use mine
all the time. I also like the Granberg version.
But does it tell if it's 3/8" or 38" lopro/picco?
No. Some knowledge is still required. Also does not tell you if it it if full-chisel, semi-chisel, low kickback, skip, sharp, etc.
A bunch of blank boxes come with a roll of bulk chain.
This is the bigger problem that I have: boxes that are marked
wrong. I can learn to interpret the manufacturers' codes and markings, but can't stop people from putting the chains back in the 'wrong', different, un-marked, or mis-marked boxes. We have a store here that resells returned goods from some of the home centers. Almost every saw chain is in the wrong box (or it is used and returned as new!). I have a large number of chains which I try to keep sorted, once ID'd, and loops for individual saws that I keep in marked, zip-lock bags.
So, back to the OP:
- Yes, manufacturers should do a better job of clearly marking their chains.
- Knowing how to do this on your own is very important: it becomes pretty quick and easy to do.
- Keep one of those measuring gauges, and / or a caliper to ID chains (and measure wear).
- Figure out your own system for marking them, and keeping them sorted.
Philbert
