bandit 250xp turbo exhaust leak?

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imagineero

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As most of you know, I'm on the hunt for a chipper and it's going to be a 250xp. I've looked at a few this month and I think I've picked a winner. If I can get the guy to knock a little off the price I'm picking it up next week. I won't tell you the price because I live in australia where we pay far too much for everything so my bargain will make you laugh.

All the machines I'm looking at are pre 2000 and they all have the perkins 115 turbo. Every one I've looked at has had varying amounts of leakage from the turbo exhaust manifold. I rang the bandit dealer in sydney but they couldn't give me a straight answer on whether it was a swappable part or not, the best I got was 'somewhere between $500 and $5000'. I'm hoping for a better estimate!

Attached is a pic.

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It's labelled for where the exhaust exits, and where the leak is. I'm guessing this is a real common problem because all the machines I've looked at had it to some extent. One guy had even wrapped the area with the rope you use to seal wood heaters, then wire ties, then some kind of exhaust repair goop over that!

Has anyone dealt with this before? Is this a simple replacement of the manifold, or does it end up being a full turbo replacement? ($$$$). It's not obvious from the severely rusted manifold whether it comes apart and there is a seal, or whether it's one piece and rusted through.

Shaun
 
How many engine hours does it say its done.

1st looky me no likey much seen wrong that turbos looks shagged and so much you can not see may be wrong as well the rusted case bolts wont come out easy,,, but get the right price all is fixable.


whats the price of reco turbo kit.
 
I haven't found much to believe in after looking at hour meters. I looked at 2 machines today with similar hours, both around 2500. The one pictured was fialy believable. Overall body had no cracks/welds, no engine leaks, minor rusting, disk was in excellent condition with little wear and no repairs etc.

Second machine had same hours but was obviously a lot more. The entire machine was heavily worn, disk worn severely and welded/patched several times, many cracks/welds and patches all over the body, disk cover and chute had been replaced, engine smoking pretty badly etc.

Turbo is claimed by bandit to be not rebuildable and around $3k in parts.

I'm hoping to get feedback from anyone who has seen/repaired the same problems on this machine since it seems they all have this problem around the same age. It's not an urgent repair, so I could order parts from US, just wondering about what needs replacing and what the costs are.

Shaun
 
Leaky turbo inlet.

I haven't found much to believe in after looking at hour meters. I looked at 2 machines today with similar hours, both around 2500. The one pictured was fialy believable. Overall body had no cracks/welds, no engine leaks, minor rusting, disk was in excellent condition with little wear and no repairs etc.

Second machine had same hours but was obviously a lot more. The entire machine was heavily worn, disk worn severely and welded/patched several times, many cracks/welds and patches all over the body, disk cover and chute had been replaced, engine smoking pretty badly etc.

Turbo is claimed by bandit to be not rebuildable and around $3k in parts.

I'm hoping to get feedback from anyone who has seen/repaired the same problems on this machine since it seems they all have this problem around the same age. It's not an urgent repair, so I could order parts from US, just wondering about what needs replacing and what the costs are.

Shaun

Shaun: From your picture, the turbo on this perkins engine is not a huge deal to worry about IMO.
The leak is at the inlet port of the turbo. For it to be a problem internally would be if sufficient exhaust leakage exists to reduce the effective through-flow of exhaust, as to reduce the output of the turbo, so that insufficient boost volumn was reached, to completely burn the injected fuel. Some engines have an injection pump with an aneroid that will only go to full fuel once boost pressure has reached a certain boost pressure.
The aneroid is an anti-polution device preventing heavy black exhaust stack emissions. It is usually either a steel line between the turbo and the injection pump, or from the intake manifold to the injection pump.
If you're concerned only because of the appearance, sure go and buy a new/used replacement turbo. Be warned, often these will not come apart without severe damage to said turbo/manifold.
Cheers,
Jake
 
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Is the shiny part on the left side in the image the turbo, and the rusted out part on the right side is the exhaust manifold? Do you know if the exhaust manifold is able to be replaced seperately?

The leak is not too bad on the one I'm looking at getting, but I looked at a couple that had real bad leaks. Loss of power, and lots of smoke even wen warm which sounds something like what you are describing. The one I'm looking at getting had very little smoke, and only when cold. I imagine it won' be long though, until the (crack, leaking gasket, gap/??) gets worse and it's in the same position as the others.

I'm trying to work out whether i need a complete replacement turbo at that stage costing $3k~$5k or whether the manifold is replaceable for maybe a few hundred. The machine is usable as it is at the moment, But I'm guessing maybe only for a year or two.

Shaun
 
Is the shiny part on the left side in the image the turbo, and the rusted out part on the right side is the exhaust manifold? Do you know if the exhaust manifold is able to be replaced seperately?

The turbine that is driven by the exhaust is on the right and what's leaking. It goes between the engine exhaust manifold and the exhaust stack/muffler. The green part on the left is the compressor that is connected between the air intake and the intake manifold with those rubber hoses and hose clamps. The exhaust spins the turbine which is connected by a shaft to the compressor impeller. I would say that the only repair possible is to replace the whole thing as a unit, probably along with the exhaust stack and muffler. These things always tend to become corroded like that over time because of the high temperature and moisture and there is really no way to get it apart without destroying it. My only concern would be- has the problem been corrected in the new unit that was causing the leak originally? I wouldn't want to spend money to replace it then have the same problem again after a few years.
 
Turbo

Hi Shaun,

Where the leak is occuring is metal to metal with no gasket. This is the area where the turbo can be clocked in order to fit. I have new turbos available for a lot less than the manufacturers. It comes with a one year warranty as well. I'll just need to know the make of the engine and the engine serial number.

Hope this helps

Dave
Global Equipment Exporters
770-966-9056
 
Hi Dave,
I'd appreciate a price. The machine is a 98 250xp, the engine is the 115 perkins turbo diesel. On the plate the serial number says *U811427C* and above that 1988/2600. On the same plate it also says list no LJ33854.

Those were the only numbers I could find.
 
You might check out gpopshop.com . They have a lot of turbo parts. What you need is a new exhaust scroll.
I gotta say that the turbo in the photo looks like it is very old or has more than 2500 hrs. I've seen a number of 10 year old turbos with 2000 hrs that looked almost new compared to that one. I have worked on a number of aircraft turbos over the years, mostly RayJays and Garrets, and it wasn't that hard to change an exhaust scroll. Let the V-clamp or bolts, whichever it has, soak in MouseMilk overnight. That will loosen them up pretty well. ( MouseMilk is the actual brand name of a very GOOD penetrating oil. See mousemilk.com )
Rick
 
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