bandsaw flaws

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fjh

wow what a brute. that is one massive ride. it's looks very well built but why do i think you might be a hydraulic guy? thanks for the pics.
 
flange bearing

You may find that you will have problems with this roller track Design,I used this design for my mill !The bearings tend to build up saw dust and make it lumpy to roll!I advise that you put a small angle iron < pointy side up and roll the bearing on that. rolling it flat on flat will likly cause you greif!
There is no good way of keeping the saw dust off the beam I have tryed everything the saw dust just gets there, My bearings are totaly enclosed and the saw dust just keeps coming!

just an observation on my own mill design mistake

look again at the top roller it has a flange eliminates most of the problem, In the past I used angle like you, It would put a slight belly in the frame, made it hard to straighten.
 
look again at the top roller it has a flange eliminates most of the problem, In the past I used angle like you, It would put a slight belly in the frame, made it hard to straighten.

Sorry gene The pic makes it hard to distingish!Does the roller cut into the tube frame work at all being that narrow How wide is it?As you can see my head rig and doins has a fair jag of weight to it.Highly doubt wheels like that would pack the weight with out cutting into my tube track!
 
R.man >but why do i think you might be a hydraulic guy?
don't know what you mean?The mill is hydralicly driven!
 
carrage wheel

Sorry gene The pic makes it hard to distingish!Does the roller cut into the tube frame work at all being that narrow How wide is it?As you can see my head rig and doins has a fair jag of weight to it.Highly doubt wheels like that would pack the weight with out cutting into my tube track!

My carriage weigh's about 400 lb. I stagger my wheels, they don't track the same they do build up a little. Its hard to build a little trouble free inexpensive mill.
 
Mtngun, I talked to a fellow at Suffolk machinery about this (Tom I think) and he says there are a couple of manufacturers doing this now and as I said the problem is the blade length varies from batch to batch because of changes in milling cutters that cut the teeth in the coil stock. I figure I have up to 2 inches of adjustment in overall blade length and as for the alignment of the wheels co-planer is co-planer. I will probably be proven wrong, but if it works it will make saws easier to build. I can put a length adjustment in later, but it is hard to get that adjustment with tight enough tolerances so that you don't have alignment problems. As usual I have complicated the KISS method.
 
carriage and wheel sawdust buildup

i have seen pics of at least two mills that use scrapers on inverted angle track so i expect that local conditions and wood type play a large part in any buildup problem and i am confident that it can be overcome with any track.
 
i have seen pics of at least two mills that use scrapers on inverted angle track so i expect that local conditions and wood type play a large part in any buildup problem and i am confident that it can be overcome with any track.

I have scrapers in front and behind the carage The build up gets on the wheels mostly on the exhast side of the saw.Packs on the the front wheel then comes off in lumps inhibiting an smooth roll.Yes I am sure it can be over come just got to take more time to do so.
 
scrapers

i have seen pics of at least two mills that use scrapers on inverted angle track so i expect that local conditions and wood type play a large part in any buildup problem and i am confident that it can be overcome with any track.

If you feel the need for scrapers try using a short piece of pipe3/4in. welded vertical to the carriage, drop in a piece of 3/4 bar stock, and weld on a cap.
 
gene

did you market your sawmills under a brand name or under your own? i think i have seen that distinct carriage top somewhere else but i can't find it.
 
market

did you market your sawmills under a brand name or under your own? i think i have seen that distinct carriage top somewhere else but i can't find it.

I had a web site [alaskan bandsaw mills ] for a short while, Ooolder brother and I only sold mills local with very little advertisement, happy customers is the best way to sell.
 
gene

did you get my email address? i sent it to you the day after you requested it via the personal message system here.
i see that alaskan bandsaw mills is listed as a manufacturer in a sawmilling forum site that i found today.
 
I have scrapers in front and behind the carage The build up gets on the wheels mostly on the exhast side of the saw.Packs on the the front wheel then comes off in lumps inhibiting an smooth roll.Yes I am sure it can be over come just got to take more time to do so.

If the scrapers aren't cutting it, and you still have problems with sawdust packing on the wheels try mounting a stiff bristle brush to rub on the top of each wheel, and possibly rubbing the track in front of the rear wheels. It helps a lot.

Andy
 
redprospector

let me say first that i think that brushes to displace sawdust are a good idea and it was the very first thing that i thought of when i heard of the problem of sawdust building up on wheels and tracks. the second thing i thought of was frozen sawdust building up. this brings me to an interesting offshoot of this forum. i don't expect ice and snow are a big problem for you in new mexico but i would be interested in hearing about specific heat related problems. would i be correct in guessing that you have to deal with heat and possibly other things that a canadian might only encounter once a year or not at all? keep in mind that what you find commonplace i might find exotic. thanks.
 
If the scrapers aren't cutting it, and you still have problems with sawdust packing on the wheels try mounting a stiff bristle brush to rub on the top of each wheel, and possibly rubbing the track in front of the rear wheels. It helps a lot.

Andy
Thanx Andy I have very little room for brushes but I will think on that a bit!
 
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